Rear wheel refurbishment items

[vfr200]

My chain adjuster has seized. From reading these forums I'm assuming the problem is either filth in the swingarm or the rear brake disc holder seizing to the bearing holder. Either way the axle is going to need to come out, and since I don't have a garage or a particularly well-equipped toolbox it's going to the mechanic to get it done.

 

The bike has about 70k on it and for the last 5 years (and 40k miles) it's been ridden in all weathers, including during the winter when the roads are salted, and if I'm being honest probably hasn't been washed down as much as it should. Dismantling the back end presumably isn't a five minute job, so what other parts should I look at getting replaced at the same time to get the most bang for my buck out of the mechanic's time? So far I've got a replacement bearing carrier because mine has suffered at the hands of the "hammer and screwdriver" chain tensioning method, and a new set of three bearings to go in it. I've also got a new OEM rear disc. Other bits I can think of would be cush rubbers, shock/linkage bearings and maybe swingarm bearings. Are any of these likely to be knackered at this mileage? The shock is the other obvious candidate to get fixed and I'm currently torn between a YSS one at about £300 or a Hyperpro one for around £400.

 

Anything else I've missed?

[Dangeruss]

All of the parts you mentioned are still available from Honda, I have recently bought them all for my '98. Rather than go to the trouble of replacing the bearings in the eccentric and the sprocket hub I found it wasn't a whole lot more to buy the assemblies. Make sure you get all the seals too if you are replacing linkage bearings. I used a variety of sockets, tubes, heavy washers and long bolts to pull and reinstall all the bearings in the linkage and swingarm. They are quite tight coming out and going in, some light oil and a heat gun helped. The axle lock nut will need replacing, and there is a belleville washer under it that will likely be rusty.

[vfr200]

It's going to a mechanic to have the actual work done because I don't have a garage, have limited tools and my mechanical skills are basically at the "I change my own fluids" level, so getting bearings out/in will be his problem rather than mine. I'm just wondering if a) the swingarm/linkage bearings ought to be replaced as a preventative measure at this sort of mileage while someone's doing work in that general area and b) whether there's anything else I should get him to do at the same time while the back end is in bits. 

 

Thanks for the tip on the axle nut/washer.

[Dangeruss]

Mine has around 70k on it as well (kilometers). I did the swingarm bearings too because I had it apart anyway, but they were in good shape and would have been fine with a clean and grease. The seals are cheap, and they protect the bearing, so it would be worth having a look, and just changing the seals if the bearings are good. Compared to any other bearings on the bike the linkage parts live in a pretty crappy environment so it make sense to do it if you are already in there. Pulling the swingarm is a bit more work, I would judge on overall condition whether it's necessary.

[Bronco]

Just a heads up on some of those parts;

 

I bought new shock linkage parts late last year, early this year, as I will also be doing a similar job to this hopefully this winter.

At the time the following part was listed as no  longer available;

ROD SUB-ASSY., CUSHION CONNECTING

52475-MBG-000

That meant that I had to buy the bearings, seals and collars as separate units and do the work myself.

That assembly is now re-listed as being available from Honda.

 

Maybe Honda is bring back some parts for the VFR that were previously unavailable? Not sure,

[Bronco]

And.....

 

That being the case; you can now purchase the three assemblies, a new rear disk and it would change the need to farm out the work, saving you enough money so that it would cover the cost of a new shock. 

Something to think about.

The only thing you would have to tackle is loosening, removing the old brake disk from the axle. I'm sure you can deal with that.

[Dangeruss]

...and if you do go that route, loosen the disc bolts, sprocket bolts and axle nut BEFORE you remove the rear caliper so you can use the brake to hold it all from turning.

[vfr200]

On 9/29/2023 at 3:22 PM, Bronco said:

it would change the need to farm out the work

 

Thanks for the tip, but I'm going to someone competent to get the work done because I don't have a garage, the nights are drawing in, and changing fluids is about my limit - I have an uncanny ability to round/sheer off bolts and given that the underlying problem is seizing-related I'd much rather make that someone else's problem.

 

Linkage assembly/axle nut+washer ordered based on the helpful advice here. For the shock I'm going to go with YSS unless anyone can convince me that another option is worth the additional expense. 

[vfr200]

A further thought occurs. I've read elsewhere that the seizing can be down to the brake caliper mount seizing to the bearing carrier. Would getting the caliper mount powdercoated help stop it happening in future, or is that likely to cause more problems than it solves?