Member Contributer Bren Posted February 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 27, 2023 Thats exactly what I was looking for and couldn't find again! I've luckily never had to do it, yet. But, you will need to remove them from the bodies and new seals would be a good idea, most people get sent back new seals when they have their injectors cleaned by a company. To be honest, for that price I would just send them off to be cleaned by a specialist, you have the piece of mind that they are done properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toreckman Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 18 hours ago, wawasonqo said: I suppose I could use the VFR's battery for the 12V supply. So, would you attach one wire to the Negative terminal to one of the Power Pins as shown in the following image of 6th Gen injectors and the other wire from the other Injector Power Pin and then touch it to the Positive Terminal of the battrry? A small 9V battery will be fine. From what Ive read, a 12V bike or car battery can fry injectors due to the large current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wawasonqo Posted February 27, 2023 Author Share Posted February 27, 2023 5 hours ago, Bren said: But, you will need to remove them from the bodies and new seals would be a good idea, most people get sent back new seals when they have their injectors cleaned by a company. To be honest, for that price I would just send them off to be cleaned by a specialist, you have the piece of mind that they are done properly. The "specialists" are in Cusco (Peru). Are the seals a common part that they would easily have access to or would I have to order the Honda Part before hand from the USA or elsewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bren Posted February 27, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted February 27, 2023 I know you're in Peru, I visited Cusco once 🙂 I cant answer your question, if i was you I'd talk to them first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wawasonqo Posted March 1, 2023 Author Share Posted March 1, 2023 On 2/27/2023 at 12:15 PM, Bren said: I know you're in Peru, I visited Cusco once 🙂 I cant answer your question, if i was you I'd talk to them first. I pulled the Throttle Body late this afternoon and the local mechanic will take it to the Injection Technician on Thursday. He says they should have new seals available. From the English and Spanish versions of the Service manual, I printed the pages for the Injectors and Starter Valve (English: 5-75 to 5-79, Spanish: 5-62 to 5-67). I've also printed an exploded diagram for the Throttle Body and the associated Parts List. Does anyone recommend that the Starter Valve should be checked? @adkfinn I've included an image show the bottom of the Throttle Body. The tubes look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bren Posted March 1, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2023 Well I've just synced my starter valves last weekend, last job before the fairings go back on after my winter maintenance. Even with the dampers with the Morgan carbtune the mercury still flutters a bit but its pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wawasonqo Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 Morning/afternoon/evening Folks, It's alive. 10 MB video https://icedrive.net/s/gQCzCD9PGg9vA8fzSba2YRW8bWD7 I should have recorded things from the beginning, DUH! I got the Throttle Body and Air Filter Housing reinstalled last night and the tank yesterday (now) my time. It took maybe 30 to 45 seconds to properly cough into life and a bit of throttle to keep it going until it warmed up enough and stabilised. After some further warming up it idled around 1100 rpm. I have had it up to 5000 rpm so far and I've had it up to 60+° C. Now it starts without any use of the throttle. Should I get it up to 85° C and let it sit there for a while and then hit the Kill Switch and check the Spark Plugs once the motor has cooled? There are some Paint Bubble blemishes on top of the tank (see photos) that appeared after I put fuel in the tank after having finished the cleaning of the interior. There were more pinholes than I was aware of. I had repaired a couple internally with JB Weld TankWeld as I was worried about fumes from the petrol exacerbating the problem which appears to be confirmed with the appearance of 4 new ones. https://www.jbweld.com/product/tankweld Can these be repaired externally with the JB Weld TankWeld by a Paint Shop because I sure don't want to go through the rigmarole of extracting and reinstalling the Fuel Pump Assembly again. Does anyone have a reliable source for the paint for this bike? - Colour: PB-215C, Code: PB215 The 2 that burst did so after I had started running the motor. Possibly the vibration and heat from the motor was the last straw so to speak. Off topic, but: I was looking at the Workshop manual for the original VFR750 RC24 1986. I bought the first in Adelaide (Sth. Oz.). Best looking VFR and one of the most beautiful bikes ever made. I knew the first generation bikes had external filters but wasn't aware or couldn't remember they also used a fuel pump. Does anyone know why a fuel pump was used? Initial searching indicates that not all the carburetted V4s used Fuel Pumps. Other information suggests the fuel pump came into play after switching to reserve which may explain why I can't recall hearing it. Let's go back to K.I.S.S. bikes please, though the V4 Rumble is good to hear again. Surely it should be possible to have the fuel pump and filter outside of the tank. I also like the sound of the later generation BMW Boxers. Rode an R1100S once from Queanbeyan (east of Canberra) out to the coast and back. Awesome motor! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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