HISS programming

[JohnnyGing]

Hi All

 

I've just bought a VFR1200F DCT and it only came with one key.  I'm in the UK so bike has HISS installed.  I've just tried to program another key following this video:

 

When I connect the crank position sensor to the 12V supply and turn on the ignition, the fuel pump is not supposed to prime and the HISS light should stay ON.  When I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump does not prime but the HISS light stays OFF.  Under normal operation, the HISS light comes on for 2 seconds and goes off when I turn on the ignition.

 

So my bike is doing something that all the other HISS enabled bikes don't.  Could it have been reflashed?

 

Any ideas or suggestions as to how I can get another key programmed would be great.

 

Thanks

 

John

[Grum]

Hi John.

I haven't done the procedure, but have a read of this that I found searching through the forum. Seems like you may need a 85k or 90k ohm resistor in series with the lead. Also, are you sure your lead polarity is correct? I believe the 12v Positive (with the resistor added) should go to the YELLOW wire of the CKP Plug, Negative of lead to the other, being the WHITE/YELLOW.  Hope this helps.

 

"Ah, it would appear that earlier bikes needed no resistor and would enter regn. mode when seeing the 12v. But later bikes need to see a lower voltage or the ECU won't enter regn. mode. There seems to be some inconsistency in what the resistance value is claimed to be, I've seen it vary between 100 Ohm and 100K Ohms.

However, having tried again a few times, I got it to work. It looks like I simply wasn't disconnecting power for long enough. But I have now completed the process and happily have 3 coded keys which is a relief 🙂

So, I can confirm that about 85 or 90K Ohms DOES work for the 2012 VFR1200F."

[JohnnyGing]

OK - in the obviously very rare - event that anyone else finds themselves in the situation that they can't program another HISS key, there is another solution that does not involve paying Honda £126. 

A locksmith with an XHORSE mini key tool can copy the transponder from an original key for about £26.  You can get a key without a transponder for about £13. So you have a spare key for £40. 

John

Here are the links to the items I used:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234033961173?hash=item367d82d8d5:g:FmQAAOSw225iTo8p
https://www.autowave.co.uk/product/clotc-cloning-transponder-chips/xhorse-super-transponder-chip-autxht004/AUTXHT004

[jeremyr62]

On 3/7/2023 at 6:13 PM, JohnnyGing said:

OK - in the obviously very rare - event that anyone else finds themselves in the situation that they can't program another HISS key, there is another solution that does not involve paying Honda £126. 

A locksmith with an XHORSE mini key tool can copy the transponder from an original key for about £26.  You can get a key without a transponder for about £13. So you have a spare key for £40. 

John

Here are the links to the items I used:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234033961173?hash=item367d82d8d5:g:FmQAAOSw225iTo8p
https://www.autowave.co.uk/product/clotc-cloning-transponder-chips/xhorse-super-transponder-chip-autxht004/AUTXHT004

I'll be trying to program some spare transponder keys soon. Did you ever work out why your bike was different? My bike may have been been reflashed too.

I searched Youtube and found other examples of issues but these seemed to be related to incompatible transponder chips. 

None of the examples mirrored your HISS light staying off either.

I assume the XHORSE clones the existing key so in theory you could have many cloned keys as you wanted.

[JohnnyGing]

Hi Jeremy

 

I think the resistor you use does not make much difference.  You are just giving the ECU a signal that it would never normally see to put it into the programming mode.  It seems that most people need to disconnect the battery positive a few times to start the HISS light flashing but as mine stayed off I can't comment.  The PCF7936 transponder has a few variants but I suspect that all of them would work.  

 

I've been using the cloned key for over 1000 miles now and I've had no issues.  You are correct in that you could have 5 keys if you wanted as they are all programmed with the same code.  If I was making more keys, I think I would use the cloning method.  The autofactors charged me £20 to generate the code but the transponders were only £5.  So three programmed transponders for £35.  Add in 3 keys for £40 from ebay and you have 3 working keys for the price of a Honda blank.

 

John

[jeremyr62]

Thanks John. My bike had the exact same issue as yours. I suspect it is the ECU flashing that trips a flag to prevent further key programming. I am just guessing though, I have no proof. I have spare dumb keys now so if I have to, I will go down the cloning route.

[JohnnyGing]

If you ever get to the bottom of getting it to program a key, I'd be interested to know what you have to do.  I suspect a dealer could put it back to stock for me but I bet it would not be cheap.  I think they can put the 2012 code on a 2010 bike which would be nice as mine is a DCT and the later software is supposed to be better.  

 

I think it's only a Honda technician that can fully explain whats going on.

 

Anyway good luck and you've made me feel better about the problems I've had - I'm not the only one!

 

 

John

[jeremyr62]

For UK dwellers, Timpsons can clone HISS keys. I had two keys cut from an Ebay supplier and I paid the extra for the transponder chip. As I mentioned above I couldn't program these to the bike, probably due to the ECU being flashed.  My programming loom was fine as I used it to successfully program a a key for my NC750. 

Timpsons used their own transponder chip. Not dirt cheap, but I suspect a lot less than getting one from Honda and very convenient.

[PatA]

Hi

This worked a treat on my 2015.

What is H.I.S.S. Immobilizer


The electronic immobilisers Honda Ignition Security System (H.I.S.S.) makes sure that the engine can only be started when using an "original key". The system cannot be bypassed by either hot-wiring the ignition or exchanging the ignition switch module. A chip in the original ignition key recognizes signals from the Engine Control Unit and sends a special ID verification signal. If the signals do not match, the engine will not start.


This process is not that difficult and involves creating a replica of the "Honda Special Tool" that costs well over $100 (plus shipping) and is probably only limited to dealers anyway (i didn't bother trying to buy it). If anyone is interested the Honda tool part number is 07XMZ-MBW0101.

You will need 1 working ignition key to do this.

*****CREATING THE TOOL******

The tool is basically a set of leads that runs from your battery to your CKP sensor electrical connector.

As I said I made my own for about Rs 200 in parts, which I all got from a local electronic shop. You need to have a soldering iron and a reasonable knowledge of how to use one.


Parts:
2 x 1m lengths of light to medium cable (also known as hookup wire). choose 2 different colours so it’s clear what is positive and what is negative.
2 x battery connector clips
1 x 1W 100R Carbon Film 5% Resistor
2 x small female spade electrical connectors.

So I'll try not to bore you all to death, but you basically solder your length of wire that you are going to use for the positive lead to the red battery connector, then cut it in the middle and solder in your resistor. I then covered this with the heatshrink tubing so it wasn't exposed. Another stolen picture:

The negative doesn't require a resistor, so just solder the black battery connector on the end of the other length of wire.

Keep in mind that your positive wire will be longer than your negative wire as you are adding length with the resistor, so trim it to the same length as the negative wire, then solder on your female spade bits.


At this stage I zip tied the two lengths together and ran some electrical tape around and between the spade bits to keep them separate.



*****CODING THE KEY*****

Now for the exciting part!
1. Remove the right hand fairing side panel
2. Disconnect the black 2-pin wiring connector on your CKP sensor.
3. Plug your positive connector into the yellow wire in the connector and the negative connector into the white and yellow and connect the positive and negative battery connectors to their respective battery terminals.
4. Turn the ignition key to ON using your original key. The immobilizer indicator light should come on and stay on (if it starts flashing after 10 seconds there is a fault in your system).
5. Now disconnect the positive battery connector for 5 seconds before reattaching it to the battery terminal. The indicator should now come on for 2 seconds then begin to flash repeatedly four times. This indicates the system is now in registration mode. At this point all previous keys except the one in the ignition have cleared/cancelled from the ECM memory, so if you have any extra spares they will need to be re-registered.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF and remove the original key. Put it a couple of meters away from the bike so it doesn't interfere with the transponder in the new key.
7. Insert the new key and the ignition to ON. The immobilizer indicator light should come on for 4 seconds then begin to flash repeatedly four times. This indicates the system has registered the new key. Success!
8. If you have any extra keys you want to register, repeat step 7. Don't put the original key you started the process with in as it’s already registered.
9. Once you have registered your spare key/s, turn the ignition to OFF, remove the DIY special tool and reconnect your CKP sensor.
10. Now check all your keys start your bike.