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First of all I'm not the first who want to delink a VFR800 there are some thread on this made by eyrwbvfr. After a lot of research I concluded that the last person who make a solution for the de-linkage of the VFR800 98-01 stop making it so I decided to take over. This is my attempt to make a re design of honda part 43111-MBG-000 that will be lighter, better looking and 100% in the specs of the original one to get an OEM look. For this project I re-use the existing hose. This adapter work well with Brembo P2 34 caliper. Part number 120A44110 and 120A44130 have already been tested with it. This solution is 800 grams lighter than the original setup. The part is made of 7075 aluminum and anodized color of anodized available are bright black or clear bright. I don't know if there still interest in something like that but here what it look like : The original hose fit perfectly: Here original part weigh vs new. if any one is interested few of them are available for 240$ + shipping.

A year ago I went down the path of de-linking my VFR brake system. The front brakes were pretty straight forward using the VTR setup. However, in the rear, it was a bit more involved. I didn't want to use the OEM caliper and modify it. So, I designed an adapter that mounts on the existing hanger to mount a standard Brembo P32 caliper. If you are planning to de-link your VFR800, 5th gen, this is a good solution for the rear brake. It gets rid of the large OEM caliper. This adapter bolts on to the stock hanger and will mount a Brembo P32 caliper in the same OEM underslung position. The advantage of this adapter over a complete hanger is that disassembly of the hub and spindle is not necessary. Well, also, it is simpler and therefore lower cost. You will need to make sure to source the correct version of the caliper as there are a few available. You must get the version where the bleed nipple is on the side closest to the mounting ears, same side of the banjo bolt. I got the version where the bleed nipple was farther from the mounting ears. It completely crashes the spokes and the tire valve. As you can see in the attached pictures, the bleed nipple and banjo bolt are on the side opposite the wheel when mounted. The P34 version is slightly bigger (34mm vs 32mm) and the pads may be too big for the rotor. Also, make sure you have enough brake line length reach the caliper. Bleeding will be no more difficult than the stock one. Although, it may be easier to flush/bleed it before mounting. Anyway, this is just an interest check to see if it is worth making another batch of five or more. Cost will be around the same of $125 plus shipping. Edit. added the following: DISCLAIMER: * For off-road use only. * You modify your bike at your own risk. * You are responsible to decide if these components are good enough for the use or abuse you will subject them to. * In using these components, you agree that I am in no way responsible or liable for anything that happens to or because of them. * If you don't think they are up to the job, or if you don't think you can accept responsibility for mounting and using them, please return the item and I will issue you a prompt refund. * When mounting, use thread lock and/or safety wire all fasteners.

For all you hydraulics experts: I've changed out my rear brake setup twice now. First was removing linked brakes, adding a crossover line to the stock rear caliper and swapping out stock '99 master for a 14mm RC51 master. Last year I got an adapter to fit a Ducati 2 piston caliper and kept the 14mm master. Turns out the 34mm rear caliper from an '08 1098 S is using an 11mm master cylinder. Stopping power isn't great, but I don't really use it much. Nice to hold it on a hill and release the fronts. I'm using the pads that came with the caliper, I have no idea what they are. I just ordered a set of EBC HH just to match the fronts and baseline what I'm used to. What will going to a smaller master cylinder do for the system? Is there a compatible Honda smaller rear master to fit the bolt spacing? I think it's 45mm, confirm or correct?

Hi all, I'm having trouble finding answer re. my linked brake issue and hope someone can help. I had the bike on the center stand and spun the rear wheel and found that the brake lever had no effect on it. I tried a second time and pulled the lever quite hard but still no effect on rear wheel. I spun it again and tried with the pedal and the wheel stopped. I haven't tried it with the front wheel. It's as if it has been converted to standard braking but I'm quite certain the previous owner wouldn't have done that. I haven't done anything to the brake system myself but I'm wondering if incorrect brake bleeding could cause this. Neither the lever or pedal feel spongy and the bike pulls up just fine. I'm quite new to the linked brake system so any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I've got a recurring issue that I cannot seem to figure out in regards to the rear brake seizing. Rather it is not releasing at random times. It first happened probably around a year ago. From my driveway to about 2 residential blocks away, the rear brake would not release from a stop. I tapped it with my boot several times, but I am unsure how long of a time period I waited before riding back to my house. After letting it cool down, I polished the slide pin and greased it and put it back together. Everything seemed fine. Later in the summer, pretty much the identical thing happened when I was preparing to go for a spirited ride with a friend. After that last time, I haven't had an issue until about 3 weeks ago. I've probably put 3000-ish miles on it since the last time I noticed any brake drag. Three weeks ago it seized up and took me twenty minutes at least before it would release. I was tapping it with my boot; I don't know if it does anything, it just makes me feel better. This last time it had seized so hard that it ground off a good amount of brake pad. The disc is a pretty hue of blue now too. So this past weekend my dad & I took the caliper off and rebuilt it and put in new pads. Put everything back together and bled the brakes. Pedal feels good and I am 100% sure that there are no air bubbles in the line. Well tonight I finally had a moment to take the bike out for a shakedown. Made it as far as the main road out of my subdivision and the brake was dragging. I thought perhaps I was just imagining it, but by the time I got a few stop lights further it was apparent that the brake was seized again. I pulled into a parking lot and just was tapping the rear brake pedal. I never got off the bike, but it seemed to release. After typing this all out, it appears that this happens on hot days and right when the bike first starts up. Each time this has happened I have cleaned the rear brake. I promise you, the rear caliper has not been this clean since it was new on the bike.

Everything was going along so well. Slow going, but well enough. After getting my wheels back on the bike I got to try out my lower blocks I installed. The gear shift and brake really needed to be adjusted. Shifting arm of course was a piece of cake. I lowered the brake pedal as low as I could and of course it wasn't far enough. So I go back to VeeferCanuk's thread here:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/34097-bls-footpeg-block-install/?p=408490 The part specifically that started this whole damnedable mess was trying to figure out how to take off the nut that Veefer circled in red here: If you go to the bottom of the brake pedal, there is that gold square. How the F#@K do i get that thing off? I go to the service manual - it just says to take the whole goddamned off without saying how! I find there is a cotter pin on the opposite side, but I mangled it trying to get it out and it broke leaving half of it in the hole. Then I figure I'll take the rearset off. The sonofabitch muthafricken heat shield bolts are soft as butter and strip out on the first attempt to loosen them. I finally get both of them off, but I'll have to buy new ones. Now that it is loose, I find the entire fucking thing is attached somehow via a cable or hose. I JUST WANT TO ADJUST MY GODDAMED BRAKE PEDAL. Now I am down at least another week while I wait for the stupid bolts to put back into the heat shield. I am to the point I am about to bend the goddamned pedal. Do they make an adjustable pedal? I normally don't like doing mods that are not reversible, and bending the pedal would be one of them. Sorry for my language, but I literally just came inside from dealing with that damn thing. My blood pressure is through the roof. I have no patience and no goddamned skill when it comes to mechanical objects and it frustrates me to no end.

Hi, I'm a new member to the forum and new to these bikes as well. I grew up riding dirtbikes but the only "street bike" I've ridden has been a Harley Sportster. I came across this 84 vf700f for $700. The guy bought it from someone he says he trusts, who had it running then drained the gas tank and sat it in storage for a year. (Rusty Tank). The guy I got it from bought it for parts on his 83 750f, parts he needed didn't workout and he already has his bike to work on and decided to sell this one. When he bought it, the guy showed him all the lights working and everything but the battery was too bad and tank rusted so it wasn't started. It has 19,000 miles on it and seems to be pretty well taken care of considering this is the north east and it's an 84. The low down is, Clean the rust out of the tank somehow, new battery, air filter box, rear brake pedal stuck in down position but it still rolls? And possibly cleaning the carbs a bit. General tune up stuff as well, of course. I'm hoping I can get away with not messing with the carbs and trying to get it fired up. I'm curious about the speed and power of these bikes, how do they compare to other bikes like newer 600s or 750s? Also wondering about the Oil mod for the cams...is it really important? Any info,tips and comments would be appreciated, Thanks.