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Hello, New to the group and new to VFRs. Picked up a 2006 VFR with 8k miles. I got a Power Commander III to help with the dip in responsiveness/performance between 4k-6k RPM. Looking for someone to share a MAP to a PCIII or PC V that they run on their bike. My bike is stock with exception to the Power Commander. Any help would be awesome to get a MAP that someone is actually using or has experience with to upload to my bike. Any other suggestions for improving the performance I will gladly listen to. Thanks so much for the help and this group. Some really great content on here. Thanks!
Well, I hope this sheds light on things and helps people with their electrical woes... hope it helps me too hahahaha. :blink: My bike's history: 2003 VTEC (Spain: so no wiring harness nor stator recall) Installed VFRness around 55000 km. 1st stator fried at around 65000 km Replaced with aftermarket stator. Short time later R/R fried (dead battery put me onto it... stator readings were fine) Replaced both 2nd stator fried at 75000 km Replaced with OEM stator and replaced R/R (aftermarket) and battery (YTZ14s) just in case. Few days later the stator-R/R connector fried. Cut out the connector from the equation and hardwired stator to R/R. 85000 km (just the other week) I was going over the electrical system and noticed the 3 yellow wires dowstream from stator-R/R connector (that is to say: between this connector and the R/R) getting very hot... disconnected it to take stator readings... fine... connected it back up and it started to smoke... shut off bike and curse Mother Honda and the horse she rode in on. Discovered that one of the yellow wires was so hot you couldn't even touch it... the others were relatively cool (they will warm up, this is normal, but usually you can keep hold on them for several seconds at least... even longer is better). So my question to myself and fellow VFR buddies was... R/R or Stator?? An engineer friend of mine who deals with this stuff all day long had the brilliant idea of pulling the hot one and taking readings to see if at least this might get one back home... it probably would work if you disconnected one headlight and were real smooth on the throttle as the rectification of the AC volts would no longer level peak voltage into a smooth DC wave... and if you're radiator fan weren't coming on all the time (i.e. cool ambient temps)... and you didn't spend too long with the motor idling.... anyway, this is just a long-way-from-home desperate-act-of-survival tip... So, in order to eliminate R/R or Stator as the culprit, we swapped the order of the wires around... let's call the female half of the connector (stator side) F and the male half (R/R side) M... so wire-wise we have the stock order of F1-M1, F2-M2, F3-M3. The M side wires are the ones getting hot and we had removed these from the white plastic housing and stuck them into the female housing in a different order... previously F1-M1 would get hot (well, really M1, but M1 connected into F1)... if we rearranged things, as in F1-M2, F2-M3, F3-M1... then if F1-M2 were the one heating up, the rpoblem would probably reside in the stator side of things... but actually F3-M1 was the one getting BBQ hot... so it was fairly certain the R/R was fugged... While we were at it, we decided to check out the (famous over here in Spain) BYC... bit like KFC... Big Yellow Connector (read "Kentucky Fried Connector")... this is a reasonably large yellow connector through which a whole bunch of ground wires run, in the front subharness... it's not really large in size, but there are 12 wires running through it... each of a different thickness (guage)... three thicker ones and the rest are puny. This connector seems to join all sorts of ground wires (seemingly from sensors and the like) but with the surprising effectiveness of an ashtray on a VFR. Nill, null, zero, ziltch, none and sweet f-a effectiveness. It's a piece of crap and hardly creates any decent connections whatsoever. So we eliminated the connector, twirled the ends together and wrapped another section of cable around this (to bolt the other end of this to ground on the chassis) and soldered the lot with a torch solderer... I can say my VTEC transition and Fi system in general is running smoother so this probably means the ECU is receiving proper readings from sensors now because the surging issues had been getting intolerable lately. I'm currently running a second hand OEM R/R a buddy lent to me for the meantime... Although I picked up, courtesy of Josh (Tightwad) at Wiremybike.com... the supposedly YOU-BEAUT mofset supercool R/R unit... so I'll be installing it this weekend to see how it goes... thing is it doesn't have the B&W feedback... so wondering if I should wire in the one from the VFRness (which I currently have completely disconnected) or not bother... I'm getting a stable 14,3 V with the 2nd hand OEM R/R... battery reads 12,9... Seems OK but it used to give out 14,6 V... before all this. Keen to try out the Mofsetter... 'cause I'm about to give up on the VTEC forever.... hope this helps people... Link to 5th gen equivalent: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&do=embed&comment=773553&embedComment=773553&embedDo=findComment#comment-773553