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Hello. Hope this is familiar to someone. I've done some trial-error so let me list the most recent work; -I charged the battery several times, it appears healthy as it recovers to 12.2 after a stint of cranking. But sometimes not so much, more deets below. -I've checked all fuses and wiring. (It had worked about 3 weeks ago, then stored with an automatic charger). -It has the improved wiring with direct lines and thicker gauge going to POS and NEG, plus a monitor wire (7 wire R-R) -About 2 weeks ago I poured about 200ml of injector cleaner into the tank. Mentioning in case it matters. -I removed the hose from the gas pump, it appears to be pumping but haven't measured how much. -I filled the disconnected hose with gas, and the gas level did not change while cranking. -The starter relay/solenoid is suspect as it sometimes just clicks, then I bridge it with a screwdriver, and it cranks. BUT sometimes it just does crank (2 of 3 crank sessions). On the last try: I tried starting while jumping it from my car, haven't tried a run-start. I tried this without the battery (after reading posts about internal battery shorts draining the available power from a jump). On the last try I removed the air filter, and it seems to have gas going into the carbs. I get like 1 sputter per 3 second crank, which is to say almost no sputter. So, thinking I will remove the spark plugs next to check if bridged or wet and flooded, I didn't have plug tools on the last try. But I'm asking here what to check next? I've ordered a new starter solenoid but it will be another week to get here. Any help appreciated! /edit; attached FLV of when it started and revved ok. voltmeter is connected to the fuse bank. vfr revving.flv

Dear colleagues, My old 1998 VFR 800 FI, does not start if it is on normal vertical position. Engine starts only when the bike lays down on the side stand (thus bended on the left side). However, when the engine is operating on the side stand, it stops if I either change the beam position from low to high, or if I activate one or the other right or left side direction indicator. Same when I try to raise the motorbike up from the side stand position to the normal vertical position. The engine stops. It seems to be a ground issue. Have you guys experienced such kind of incident? any advises to share? Thanks. Alain

Hi everyone, As I was trying to set off from a traffic light today my bike just stalled and when I restarted it it would misfire terribly, was impossible to ride further so I had to call the road side assistance here in the Netherlands to get me home. Looks like an electrical issue and I'm wondering if anyone here has had a similar issue. When i keep steady throttle the rpm needle just gets crazy and sometimes won't go over 4k, the rpm just drops abruptly. All this accompanied by smell of unburnt fuel. I attach a YouTube link so you can see what the engine does while my hand is STEADY on the throttle... Really hope someone has an idea because I don't really trust my garage here honestly, probably when I start the cold bike it will be running fine which doesn't help diagnosing the problem. It has happened before but only for a short period of time, just after a hot engine start. After those few terrible seconds it would always return to normal by itself, but not now.. And that would happen may be once per month while I drive daily, so not that often. Link: Hope to hear from someone, greetings!

Hi guys: I've had my 2000 VFR 800 for awhile, and have put almost 100k on it, thanks in part to my amigos here :-) Recently I noticed the Error light coming on. I read the codes, and came up with Code 15(Injector 4). I did experience the engine cutting out on me a couple times during riding, but the bike always restarted quickly. So, I am happy to replace injector 4 IF that is my problem, but I don't want to take off the carbs etc AGAIN for no reason. Its a real PITA. Has anyone had a faulty injector? 1.Whats the best way to verify a bad one? When I used my my multimeter, All the injectors read the same resistance. (About 20k, Ohms, Out of spec according to the manual) 2. If I need to get a test pin box for troubleshooting, any idea who has them? (07WGZ-0010100) Thanks Guys! Jerry W. Socal.

Hi folks - While I understand the basics of wiring on the bike, I am not confident enough to pick through a wiring schematic to answer my question... so I pose it to you! 2002 VFR800 Canadian bike My start button is half broken off, so I've been lazily watching eBAY for a replacement (just for looks, it functions fine). I came across a pair of both the start/kill controls, and the signal/headlight controls in the UK. No mention of exactly what model year/country these controls off of, but the seller did note he bought them to replace the faded controls on his '03. The start side looks identical (does NOT have the 4-way flasher button like some of the models seem to, mine doesn't), BUT on the turn signal control side, it does have the PASSING toggle switch to flick the headlights. My bike does NOT have this from stock... will this still plug right into my stock connectors and function? Input greatly appreciated!

So i was warming up the viffer for the trip to work one day. She started up fine, got to about 2800RPM (so about 30 seconds before i woiuld turn the choke off and let it idle until i took off) and out of nowhere, the thing dies. go to turn the key again and non of the idiot lights or backlights turn on. My first though, check bettery! I do so and its fine. maybe i fried a part of the electrical system. for the other first question yes, the R/R is fairly new. She has about 4500 miles on her. any suggestions to find a quick solution? Thanks guys in advance

I've started noticing some electrical problems with my '91. I don't think its related, but what do I know - I replaced the standard R/R with the Yamaha R1 Mofset version, went with the cables from Eastern Beaver and Wire My Bike, along with a new battery and starter relay so I feel like that was done right. Have been riding the bike for over a year since without noticing these problems: Overheating - this bike hates rush hour traffic. Its been hot a few times and no fan. Fortunately I've either been able to pull-off and let it cool, or have been able to drive along at 40+mph to allow her to cool off. Fuse was blown, dropped in another fuse. Ran it on the stand up to 230 degrees without fan kicking on. So replaced the thermo switch at the base of the radiator on riders left side. Still doesn't kick on at up to 230 degrees. Antifreeze is full and circulating. Turn signals - I noted last fall that the signals/horn stopped working, checked and replaced a burned out fuse. Didn't last long and have replaced it a few more times. This may be related to dead battery which was re-charged using a battery charger, seems to be the only single event shared each time I've had this problem, but I'm not sure of it. Where do I start? What do I test? Are these two singular events or somehow related? Thanks

I think I created a short in my electrical system I got Darth Blings angled mirror bracket kit with the integrated turn signal mirrors a while back. I really like them but it took me forever to finally put them on. I got around to installing them late last year and in trying to determine how I wanted to wire them (connecting a 2-wire light to VFR 3-wire light), I thought the system was ok with the new lights' positive wires connected to both the running light line and the blinker line. The result was that the new lights were on all the time but still flash as turn signals... this ALSO resulted in the amber running lights being "bright" continuously, the same brightness as they would when flashing, AND the turn signal indicators on the dash were always on but blink when turn signals are on. The bike was fine for a month or so of riding, and then I blew a fuse recently, the 10A one for the lights/dash. It happened just after pulling out of my driveway so thankfully I wasn't out on the open road with no lights or instrumentation. I went back, replaced the fuse, started her up, and the same thing happened... everything was fine when starting up and then fuse blew after pulling out of driveway. I suspected that the splice was the cause of the problem, so I cut the wire splices to the running light lines, allowing the new lights to only be on as blinkers. But after doing that and putting a new fuse in, when I started her up, the new lights were STILL ON as running lights but dim. I took the bike out and actually got down the street a little ways before the fuse blew this time. I believe now that the splice I added between the running light and blinker lines induced an overcurrent in the system somewhere that created a short. With the splice removed, the mirror lights should not be on unless the turn signal is engaged. The other oddity is that those few times I had the bike out and the fuse blew, whenever I grabbed the brake, the lights and dash came back on, as if the brake light switch was bypassing the fuse. Did I totally hork up my electrical system, or does anyone have any basic troubleshooting steps I can take to find the cause of the problem?