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Found 13 results

  1. Hey it’s been a while since I’ve put a topic in this group but I have been trying to diagnose this problem now for a long time. My bike will start up around 2k rpms and stay there once warm. I have taken the air box off a million times so I don’t want to take it off again. Here are things I’ve done or tested: New Spark Plugs New Coils New Battery New ECU New Stator New PAIR Solenoid Valve New Throttle Body Boots ALL New fuses New Air Box(with air box boots) New Air Filter All relays are functional I have tested the one way valve and it’s operational I have checked the timing, and that is all good and timed correctly. I have checked the TPS and it is very functional All of the vacuum hoses have been tested for leaks Have tested the bypass control solenoid valve and it’s operational I have looked at the throttle cables and they are “within spec” by the book. I can’t tighten them up any more without the throttle sticking and not flicking back So here is the story now. I start up the bike let it warm up, drive it around the block a few times. I get back and it’s still idling high. However which is very weird when I roll the throttle back the other way the idle goes down but the idle is still sporadic but not as bad. As soon as I let go of the throttle from that position it goes back to high idle around 2.2k RPMS.
  2. Hi, I'm new to this Honda Specific/ V4 engine forum and I'm glad to be a part of it for some help!! Soooo... I've been doing research on aftermarket exhaust slip-on systems and been looking all over the place. I've been coming back to one company and that's 'Black Widow'. Any opinions on the brand and the type of exhausts they sell??? How they fit? Sound quality? Reliability? Reviews on them? I'm looking for a good sounding exhaust and if you have any recommendations I would really appreciate them! Here are the slip-ons I'm stuck on possibly buying: 200mm: https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/vfr800-98-03-rc46-hi-level-silencer-kit-with-200mm-oval-carbon-fibre-silencer--carbon-tip-20745-p.asp 300mm: https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/vfr800-98-03-rc46-hi-level-exhaust-silencer-kit-with-300mm-oval-carbon-fibre-silencer--carbon-tip-20747-p.asp ALL exhausts that fit the bike: https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/high-level-style-rc46-631-c.asp Thank you!
  3. Hello to all, from Portugal, Been riding a bike since 1994. Riding the sexiest bike of them all, since 2002. RED VFR 800Fi (1998) Regards to all.
  4. Hi there, Like a track noob I took off my side stand and picked up a single swing-arm pit bull stand. It looks all cool, but is overkill since I don't use/need tire warmers at my novice level. It's a pain in the arse when I am at the track by myself doing the single swing arm stand and was going to put back on the kick-stand. Though having the damnedest time remember how this thing goes back on. I have the 1998 manual, but not entirely sure where these springs need to attach or if I am missing parts? Side note: I do plan to keep the center stand off. By chance could somebody post a photo of their 1998 side-stand setup that I could gleam how to re-attach? W @wesburke
  5. Hi everyone, I am trying to put a 1998 vfr back on the road and am having trouble bleeding the brakes. The bike has 17,xxx miles and was rideable as purchased but ran rough and didn't start easily. I have already done a tune up, added a VFRness, replaced and rebuilt the forks (bent in an accident), greased the head bearings, changed coolant, added speed bleeders all around and replaced all the brake pads. Clutch has already been bled and the lever feels very firm. There is also a long list of missing bits and broken plastic to deal with in time. Unfortunately the manual doesn't make much sense to me since I'm not using a vacuum bleeder. Bare with me as I try to explain. I have already used a few bottles of brake fluid attempting the bleed the brakes and all fluid is coming out clear. I'm attempting to bleed in this order: Front right caliper top bleeder (pump at hand lever), front right caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), front left caliper top bleeder (with caliper removed and tilted to help air escape, pumped at hand lever and secondary master cylinder), front left caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), rear caliper front bleeder (pump at foot lever), rear caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), and then bled at the proportion valve (foot lever). The rear brakes feels strong but the front lever is weak. I repeated this procedure when I continued to see air bubbles rising from the proportion valve bleeder, but I believe this is related to the secondary master cylinder. With all bleeders closed and pressing the rear brake lever firmly down I can hear some gurgling or squeaking in the lines up front. I can also hear something strange with the system closed and pumping the secondary cylinder manually. It feels like it's not moving much fluid, and appears to be moving barely any fluid at all out of the proportion valve bleeder when opened. However, pumping the secondary master cylinder appears to add air to the lines, because when I pump the secondary cylinder by hand and then press on the foot lever I get a lot of air out of the proportion valve. I have repeated this ad nauseum with four bottles of brake fluid to no improvement. The secondary master cylinder continues to feel like it hasn't been primed and just sloshes fluid back and forth, and whenever I pump the secondary and go to back to the proportion valve air bubbles still come out. Any advice?
  6. Hi everyone! I recently switched to a VFR and I'm loving every minute of it. One day I was a bit too eager to get going and... forgot the disc lock. The "inside" part of the disc got a bit bent so I replaced the disc. I did however have to ride the bike with a bent disc for a bit, maybe 30 miles or so. Now with the new disc in place I can feel a knock in the handlebars when I either brake decently hard or go over a bump. Going over a bump only gets one knock but braking makes a rhythmic knocking. Initial reading suggested steering head bearings so I lifted the front up and turned left and right slowly without feeling anything different. I also jiggled everything I could but there it doesn't seem anything is loose. Could it be that I screwed up the brake pads by riding with a messed up disc? Right side (old disc) has even pad wear while the right side, the one I replaced, has one pad a lot more worn than the other. I have new ones on the way anyway but I'm not sure this is the issue. Do you know of any other possibility, or some other test I can do? In short: Started with disc lock in Replaced rotor Knocking sound while braking (rhythmic) and over bumps (single knock) No odd feeling while turning handle Any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated as I'm stumped and not even sure if it's safe riding :(
  7. Since my PCIII had gone dead - I moved to PCV. Imported the existing maps from PC III into PC V - and the bike RUNS LIKE CRAP AT LOW RPM's, surging at low rpms etc. Issues seems to be around the 2000/300 rpm with 15/20% throttle range. Even with Zero maps the bike seems to have the same problem. Looks like a dead investment at this point. Anyone facing similar issues or fixes.
  8. Hey all, My bike: 1998 VFR. I hadn't checked the oil and coolant level in a while. So I followed the Clymer manual's directions, let the bike idle for three minutes, turned it off, and waited three more minutes for all the oil to settle. While the bike was running, the oil level was in between the marks. But as the three minutes went by the level went higher and higher until it was over the maximum mark, and there was only a sliver of clear space left (my viffer has a small window that shows oil level. The last oil change was around 500 miles ago, so I should probably get an oil change anyway. How concerned should I be about the extra oil? I heard too much oil can lead to foaming, which could cause serious under lubrication. How worried should I be, considering the oil must have been at this level since the last oil change, 500 miles ago. Thanks for the help Josh
  9. Version v1.0

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    All torque settings for 1998 plus more
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