KevCarver

Good info, thanks for the updates guys! Plastic seems to hold up nicely for the price.

11 hours ago, Duc2V4 said:

My verdict is that it didn't seem to last any longer than the plastic ones. I already replaced mine, probably should have written down the mileage but alas I don't think I did, sorry. I did think that I could use a bolt the same size as the one that holds the sprocket, to act as a mould and use some JB weld to rebuild the inner part of it but kind of gave up on that idea. I also thought of doing the same thing with the plastic ones using some plastic epoxy but again, probably more work than it's worth.

 

TLDR: Didn't last any longer than the plastic OEM one for me.

Thanks for the update! My main concern was not seeing it on the fiche, but then I found this thread and got the part#, so I know they are still available.

On 6/22/2017 at 6:12 PM, Duc2V4 said:

Member SFdownhill and I grabbed a handful of these for $10 ea. (shipping included), some sort of special he stumbled upon. A couple for my two VFRs, a couple for his and Hammerdrill's VFR.  Haven't picked mine up from him yet but I believe he installed his already. We'll see how long they last, or how quickly they destroy the sensor drive pin! (re: V$ Rosso's post)

So, what's the verdict on these?

I was just thinking about seeing if @SEBSPEED would be able to machine some, but at $16.79 (2020 price) shipped from Hong Kong I'm wondering what kind of volume it would take to compete.

I couldn't find it anywhere in the parts fiche, but the part# (44808-MR&-013) still calls up the correct plastic part for under $6 (US).

I think he’s asking about the muffler gasket not exhaust port gaskets. Usually when I see multiple #s the bottom one is the only one that is orderable. My Staintune doesn’t need one, so I haven’t bothered with it for a while now. 

I just looked at Ron Ayers fiche and only see one listed; #7. 

Doesn’t the new header have a larger diameter outlet? I thought people were saying the Staintune would have to be stretched. 

1 hour ago, SEBSPEED said:

At least 3 of those 8g headers are for 5th/6th gen bikes because we want the splayed front tubes to accommodate a low mounted front radiator. To me it makes more sense to batch these with the 5/6 header run. 

I think that is what HighSideNZ is looking for as well.

If the 8th Gen number of orders is only 3 or 4, then I'm fairly certain they are all custom jobs. Seems like no 8th Gen riders are actually interested...?

They seem like a group that is really satisfied with slip ons and their superior charging systems...😆

44 minutes ago, Sweeper said:

Glad to hear that bike is getting some lovin’!


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I like it better than the supercharged 6th Gen. 

I just test rode CornerCarver’s ‘98 with Wolf undertail mufflers, and Hooooly Smoookes! Wow! He’s running it with a PCII serial that hasn’t changed the map since he bought the bike. It’ll pull from 3k if you want it to, and run out all they way to redline without any dips or flat spots. 

5 hours ago, HighSideNZ said:

Don't forget that the righthand centre stand bolt, looking from the rear towards the front, is a LEFTHAND thread.

There have been many, many that have been snapped off when trying to remove the stand!

 

6TH GENS! (ONLY?)

Not sure on 8th, but 5th is standard.

Oooh, who sells that?

 Sorry, it's all I could think of...

19 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

 

I had another thought on removability of CSs: since only the right side CS fixing bolt access is hindered by the headers, and the bolt hole for the right side fixing bolt goes all the way through the cush bracket, there might be a way to run a tap all the way through the bolt hole to clear the threads, then thread a bolt of precise length through from the center of the bike outward to a nut on the outside of the CS where the bolthead usually resides. This would allow removal of the bolt without removing the headers.

 

NOTE - 6 GENS HAVE REVERSE [LEFT-HAND] THREADING ON THE RIGHT SIDE CS FIXING BOLT. 6 GEN LEFT SIDE CS FIXING BOLT HAS REGULAR [RIGHT-HAND] THREADING.

ADDITIONAL NOTE - 5 GENS HAVE REGULAR [RIGHT-HAND] THREADING ON BOTH THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE CS FIXING BOLTS.

[Please do not ask me why I'm so adamant about this or how I learned about the 5/6 gen CS bolt threading anomaly - it still stings a bit]

I had a similar idea for a quick release CS. I was thinking of trying to find an appropriate size clevis pin to replace the bolt and secure it with a hitch pin or split pin.

If you ever try to search ebay for a 6th Gen Rear Cushion (Thats the part that mounts the swingarm to the engine and what the CS is mounted to) they ALL have the right side bolt head broken off! LOL

Hi Anonymous,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Looks cool, love the gold bolts and lug nuts, and the tank wings!

I used to call mine The Time Machine. It seemed to get me places faster than physics should allow! Ironically it topped out 1 mph slower than my VFR, but it sure got there a whole lot faster!

2 hours ago, Stray said:

Good job, Kev. Looks very neat. 

 

Thanks! I've actually been practicing my soldering this evening and I could do it so much better then I did the other day.

Got it fully finalized today. I bought some better soldering gear and heat gun for heat shrink tubing so I could permanently join the CBR plugs to the VFR harness. 

#3 wire was a tad short making it tighter than I wanted, so I added some length. I have most of a ZX636 wiring harness and found one wire to match. The other will have to be brown...

I found some fancy high temp resistant tape used by auto manufacturers for under hood wiring.(Tesa 51036, btw) Figured it was worth a shot. More like a cloth than traditional stretch electrical tape. I still suck at wrapping, though...

I didn't trust my jenky soldering to not eventually poke through the heat shrink, so I gave each one a wrap of tape.

Starts on the button, as they say. Actually better than it had been recently. It was taking 2 pushes when cold, now it fires right up with the first push! I'll probably change the plugs at some point soon-ish. I don't remember how long they've been in there.

3 hours ago, shaynus said:

Sigh...  that's one problem with living so far away from anywhere  - the cheapest set I found (4 plugs + harness) was at least $100 more than that. And that is from the UK. One 'local' (other side of the country) ebay seller is asking for $220 for the same thing!

Sorry mate, I wasn't even paying attention to that...

I'm not an expert, but I think the 6th Gen has 3 wire COPs that do not directly match up to 5th Gen wire harness. Plus they bolt into the valve cover to keep them in place. I know a friend that has a 5G engine in a 6G frame and that's been a minor issue. Don't know what others who have similar hybrids have done.

Also I don't know what 7th and 8th Gens have, but I'm sure there will be an answer in time...

Honestly, the '08 CBR1000RR COPs and harness is darn near drop in, plug and play (Quick ebay search and I see some for about $34 total). Some minor soldering is all you need to do. I actually crimped some flat blade connectors to try it out first, and it works great! I'll get to soldering them in a little while. I've got a couple projects and no money at the moment (I need to update my crap soldering kit). 

When I last did mine, I found that I could swap the various OE sizes around and have a few left over that were all thicker than I needed. Then I wet sanded them on a flat surface with fine (I forget what grit) sandpaper to the desired thickness.

I got my Gixxer COPs installed today with the CBR harness plugs. 

Short ride and it works fine, starts on the button! It had been taking a second stab at the starter for the past few years, so that's a result.

7 hours ago, gig said:

+1

Thank you, gentlemen!

I saw a complete set of CBR COPs with the harness on ebay. Tried to talk CornerCarver into buying it for his 5th Gen, but I haven't heard back from him about it. I've got a CBR harness on the way to go with my Gixxer COPs. I prefer on principle to stick with Honda parts (I know they are all Denso), but they were free and I've got Gixxer mirrors anyway...

I was referring to the "old style" vs "new style", but Seb confirmed the CBR COPs engage the threads the same way as the 5th Gen OE.

Seb, did you have to trim the boot like Stray did (above)?

Does any of that relate to how the boot fits over the end of the plug? As in the 5th Gen original HT leads use the threaded tops of the plugs. I sort of think that the 6th Gens require the bit that comes extra in the plug box that threads over the top and is more bulbous.

I just went and stuck the 5100s onto a spare 5th Gen engine with plugs installed and they definitely engage the threads on top of the plugs. I did one without the external seal and one with, and I could hear and feel both COPs engaging the threads.