vfrcapn

76% increase in power??????

WOW, I gotta see that dyno chart video with sound!

Can you scan and attach it? Please?

Fixed that for ya. :blink: Congrats, sounds pretty amazing. :rolleyes:

Where can you look up the MC specs? I am specifically looking for data on the 5th gen and the VF1000R.

Look on the master itself. The numbers are cast into a circle on one side of the master. As stated above, I have a few - if you're in need, let me know.

5G - 1/2"

1000R - 5/8"

I've got a spare 1KR MC I'll try tomorrow on the R, if that's no good I'll be looking for another that will work.

The "spare" worked out fine, I should have used that one first before trying two others. :fing02:

It's leaking from the plunger...back to the drawing board.. :pinocchio:

Where can you look up the MC specs? I am specifically looking for data on the 5th gen and the VF1000R.

Look on the master itself. The numbers are cast into a circle on one side of the master. As stated above, I have a few - if you're in need, let me know.

5G - 1/2"

1000R - 5/8"

I've got a spare 1KR MC I'll try tomorrow on the R, if that's no good I'll be looking for another that will work.

CBR900RR (929) master cylinder is 19mm

VFR800 VTEC master cylinder is 14mm

To explain the implication of this very clearly, using the VFR m/c with the 929 calipers will see the brake lever hitting the bar, most likely... :beatdeadhorse:

Ciao,

Where can you look up the MC specs? I am specifically looking for data on the 5th gen and the VF1000R.

See attachment...

Thanks! Based on the set of RC forks I had in hand at one time, the SP2's were around 16-19mm shorter than the SP1's. With that and the 16mm of fork I have exposed now in my set up, I would be able to slip the 724mm 929/954 forks right in without changing geometry. I've never had any instability but I've never been over 120 indicated with this set up either. YMMV.

i started out with CBR929 forks , yokes , calipers , disc's , bars and wheel ...

.......

you have to have the tubes 25.5 mm above the top yoke to be able to fit the bars and position is trial and error so they clear the clocks on full lock ... and grind off the locating tabs so it looks cleaner ..and thats it really , it's very simple .

25mm is 25mm more than i have my 929 forks above top yoke.

Altho i run race clip ons from under the top yoke, Im going to drop my forks thru a few mm at a time and see what results i get. I do know at the moment the bikes steering slow...

I just hope your 25mm is fairly tank slapper free?... :unsure:

I've got my SP2 forks raised around 15mm from the 954 upper. What's the length diff between the 929 - SP2 forks?

Here are some renders of my variation; the drop clamp would allow me to run clip ons.

Nice, what software are you using to edit?

Tim, is there some reason you're bumping this thread with no reply? I sent you an email a while ago with a question, and you never got back to me?

capn, I believe he wrote earlier that he matched the offset of the oem VFR triples.

It was I who bumped the thread, first time because I was rowing through old threads of interest to me, and with winter upon us, and a flurry of newer VFRd members embarking on their own FrankenViffer projects lately, I thought it would be interesting to some others too, who might not have seen it.

Second time I bumped it was because Mike had a Q and it hadn't been answered quite yet, and maybe the OP has other things going on and is busy???

Looking back through I see he answered the offset question: "Actually my scale read 39.6294275 mm.."

I'd be up for the CAD file also, I discussed this with Tim at the Summit last year but haven't followed up. Maybe a small fee for the file would be appropriate??

Dillon Brothers http://www.powersportspro.com/ is having a 20% off sale on all OEM parts this weekend only. Sale prices look to be about the same or slightly less than Direct Line, fwiw.

I know my lower stem is a 929. The top bridge I have looks like an SP-2. I did get a chance to write the original owner and he did a lot of work on the front end before he blew up the motor.

This is what I have:

As you can see, I have a lot of hardware to replace to get these forks looking decent looking. I think the previous owner only had an adjustable wrench, a pair of pliers, and a Swiss Army knife in his tool set.

As soon as my springs come in, they're off to the suspension shop.

Pete

Pete, the upper has to be SP1, the SP2 has a much larger stem and larger dia. opening in the upper. SP2 on left.

Finally got a chance to reply to this thread. I'm with Pete about buying used parts off of flea-bay. I have gotten 2 bad lower triples for a RC51, and a bad upper for a 954. I'm still fighting with paypal over it. :biggrin: So I bought new. I got an '01 RC51 lower, and a 954 upper. Everything fits great. I'm thinking that Bren's lower is bent at the stem and lower bridge from being wheelie, and landing HARD. And the reason that the RC51 upper fits is that he bought both parts off of the same bike.

Here's where I'm at now. :rolleyes:

Nice, Ohlins.

Something is definetly not straight. I can attest to both those triples being easily interchangeable without any force nor modifications as I've had both in hand and swapped them back and forth on the bike with forks in place and everything buttoned up.

I suspect the gullwing triple is at fault, as if it were anything else, stem, bearings, frame, then you'd have the exact same problem with BOTH triples.

:ph34r:

I just reinstalled mine (SP1 lower and 954 upper) and it all slipped together easily. Same on my old VF. Will be interesting to see what the issue is..

:fing02:

Att the moment I sitt and wounder if I will get stock 17/43 or 17/45 for my 5th gen.

I would like second a bit lower in twists, spechally 2 up, but I will go a lot commuting next season, so how mutch will it effect fule economy?

I switched to the 17/45 set up last summer and am still averaging 41.8 mpg (17.7 km/l) on my '99.

Race only slip on. Way too loud. Vibrations and back firing from the lean condition.

Wolf underseat exhaust. Looked great, almost made me deaf.

I bought one of those ZG seconds but it was full of those air inclusions, gave the whole thing a bubbly, scratched look. Ended up selling it for 1/10 what I paid.

Dan,

I weigh 190 lbs and have a 19 kg(1065 lb) spring on a Vtec, I get the following numbers measuring by myself:

Free sag- 12mm

Rider sag- 32mm

These are real close for what I want, but I want to check it again check it again w/help to be more accurate.

So IMO if you weight 190 plus you'll need at least a 19kg spring to get close, I'll be trying a 20 kg real soon and post my numbers.

BTW I started w/a 850 lb spring on my Ohlins and had No free sag w/35mm rider sag.

BR

I also have an Ohlins 1085 lb (19.36 kg) spring on my lighter 5th gen, I'm 205 lbs w/out gear.

I understand the importance of selecting the correct spring but where are you setting preload when you decide a 19kg spring isn't right and you need to go to a 20kg? If you've got the preload set at 3/4 and all sag numbers are lined up, isn't that good enough? Would you bother changing the spring if you never carry luggage or passenger?

I hear ya Pete, I agree that I could move up a notch in the rear but the only thing I am concerned with is going to stiff. My goal all along was to get 35mm sag front and back. I guess I could go to 1200# in the back and still get 35mm but I will have more free sag then correct. My guess would be that it would land about in the same area as the front 15mm or so. Right now it feels super, It's not too stiff but it's firm to the responsive side.

Funny thing is, Elka didn't position a line correctly. After dumping the nitrogen, moving the line to where it needed to be, charging the nitrogen it won't stop leaking. :fing02: So...I need to take the shock out tomorrow and if am going to change the spring now is the time I guess.

So the question is.. is 15mm free sag okay cause if I go to a 1200# in the rear I will be 15mm free in the front and back? I don't want a stiff ride, I can't stress that enough. Or will going from 35mm sag to 30-32mm free sag not make much of difference in the ride. I don't want stiff, did I say that already.

EDIT: after thinking about it Pete I think I may upgrade the rear some. Then I'll adjust the sag to around 30-32mm if I can. If I tried that with the rear right now it would top out or have next to little free sag. Curious if 1200# is the right number though.

Bumping the spring rate up is going to decrease your free sag to less than the current 9mm.

BTW, here are Ohlins recommendations on sag, just another take on it.

Static Fr: 15-30mm, R: 10-20mm

Rider Fr: 35-50mm, R: 25-40mm

Thanks for the response guys, although clearly its a personal preference. It seems most people go short and from a few other boards I'm on most who get long wish they get short however I just can't imagine clutching with 2 fingers, I'd think it'd be more fatiguing....I dunno

Actually, in my case it is 3 fingers. Only the pinky hangs off.

Gosh, I hope we're sill talking about levers :laugh: :biggrin:

:laugh:

:laugh:

Yes, definitely, 3 or 2 finger clutch for a couple years now with the shorty pazzo's and I'll never go back to a long lever.

Congrats Seb. Did you tear down the old house or just build a new one on the property? Same garage or did you build a new Jay Leno style stable?

Very cool, the pics look good. All that stuff you wrote before the pics might as well be Latin to me. :biggrin:

I did just get last month's electric bike Motorcyclist mag, nice write up on the race and the Motoczysz bike. :biggrin:

Using the map Toro supplied, it needs actually setting up etc...

Wow. Just wow..

Thank you!

Kevin:

Do you know what size springs fit on an Ohlins? Penske's use 6" long by 2.25" ID springs. I've got quite a varied selection from 1000# up to 1250# available. I'm using the 1300# on my VFR and the 1400# I salvaged from the original Traxxion set-up on my ST1300.

Not to flog a dead horse, but what the hell. This is exactly why I don't have a lot of confidence in Traxxion. They sent my VFR shock with a 1400# spring on it. They sent my ST1300 shock with a 1000# spring.

Go figure.

Glad we got the "book" and educated ourselves.

Here's a "backwards" way to look at determining the correct spring rate. Let's say you put an 850# spring on a VFR. Then you adjusted the preload to achieve the 5-8 mm bike sag first. Imagine what the rider sag would be when one of us heffers got on the bike. That's why a topped out spring is actually an indication of a too soft spring.

Pete

The 970 lb Ohlins spring that came off my 5th gen shock has 6.75" free length & the 2.25" ID.

VFRCAPN - I got the 72 inch Insultated air core in 20 inch width Big Agnes. Did not really camp in cold temps this time but that is the purpose of the insulation. The Agnes pad is a nominal 2.5 inch thick but I was much more comfortable than the 2 inch Thermarest pad (72x20 too) I bought last year....which replaced a old thermarest and then a 1.8 inch REI version. If you want a thermarest thicker than 2 inches you really have to go to the wider 26 inch styles which are HUGE. The BA packs in less than half of the room as even the smaller of the THermarests.

I may give this a try on my next camp trip, I need to stay with the 20" width since I have the BA sleeping bag. It's nice with REI's return policy that you can try something out like this and return it if you're not satisfied. Thanks!

I finally had a chance to test my Big Agnes insulated air mattress in the Sierras last month. Much more comfortable than my thermarest. And it packs smaller than anything around. Only downside is puffing it up. My next purchase is a camp chair...can you say Kermit!

Which model did you get? I wasn't totally happy with my 1.75" Thermarest so I upgraded to the 2" or 2.25", whichever it is, but it is that much more bulky. The Big Agnes pads pack pretty small. Was it as warm as the Thermarest? In the store it just felt like a miniature air mattress so I was worried about comfort and heat transfer, although I've read a lot of good reviews on them.

All the camps I've been to have concrete or wood benches so I just carry one of the REI/Thermarest seat pads which pack down to the size of a can of Red Bull. I took a camp chair on a couple trips and never used it.