Shoot me an email, I'll try to squeeze it in

Service the clutch slave and master, check the clutch basket fingers for grooving and file if necessary. Also, send me a picture of your old clutch cover, as I may have a use for it... 

On 5/12/2025 at 7:50 AM, Lucca said:

I salute you....this is just so enjoyable to read, nice engineering 👍.  Vfr800 is amazing as it is....but this.......i mean...k'mon man.....this is vfr800 in it's batman cave/superman form😆😆. Amazing job!!!!!!

Thank you very much 🙂

On 2/28/2025 at 1:41 AM, DrErgal said:

Very nice!
But there's something odd to my eyes... 🙄
I mean... I think these rear set adapter by Sebspeed (❤️) are supposed to rise up the footpegs, but then you lower them with these new components.
Why don't keep the OEM rear sets, then? 🙄

So, actually, my adapters are designed to be used with race style CBR929/954 rearsets and will place the footpegs in the stock VFR location at the lowest/most forward setting. They can obviously then be moved up and back from there.

However, if you do get the race style rearsets and flip the intermediate piece(the one with all the extra holes) from Left to Right, you end up with all of the adjustment options being DOWN and back!

On 6/18/2024 at 7:28 PM, Fastdruid said:

Looks like http://www.hondavfr.org is dead and intermittently links to malware. Please could you remove from the list @crepitus and your post @SEBSPEED

Motad also unfortunately dead @rctwentyfour

 

Some other ones to add. 

 

General info on Honda Part numbers - I use this list reasonably regularly to work out what fits what and where parts come from!  

https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPCNs.htm

 

More online 'fiches

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle

 

Web!ke - Often cheaper to buy OEM parts from Japan *INCLUDING SHIPPING* than it is here in the UK 

https://japan.webike.net/HONDA/VFR750F+Interceptor/OEM+Parts

 

For suspension PDQ - UK distributors for Racetech (use the calculators on the racetech site to work out what you need).

https://pdq1.com/

 

Appreciate the heads up, but this post is SIXTEEN years old... use the internet at your own risk... 

On 5/15/2024 at 3:16 PM, WackenSS said:

 

 

I have received the green ones but i still want the red ones to have all options at the ready! What's the way forward you think?

 

 

I think one would need to call Barnett and place the order via telephone, since the website has a glitch. 

10 hours ago, WackenSS said:

 

Thank you 🙂

I called today, the woman I spoke to confirmed they have these in stock. She advised that there is a discount code on the website. I tried to order via the website, but the part is not "clickable", so could not add to cart to determine final price...  

On 5/9/2024 at 12:18 PM, WackenSS said:

Yes please! That would be great!

 

I contacted them weeks ago, nothing yet even though they say 2 days 🤷

I tried to call Friday but they were closed. And then I forgot... I'll try again later this week.

On 4/21/2024 at 8:15 PM, Sweeper said:

Awesome news "Al"!

"His name's not Al" ... lol

20 hours ago, WackenSS said:

I have the partnumber from you clutch post a long time ago, the same as JHZ posted.

Extensive googling made me give up and ordered the green ones as they exist and are available in my country. One of my suppliers told me 8 months on the red ones.

I'll just shim untill it stops slipping as there is no other solution as of now. 

 

Also I'll give my old clutch pack a go to compare OEM v Barnett together with the low mileage clutch in the spare engine.

 

Have you tried contacting Barnett directly? I would be happy to repackage & ship to you if they won't ship direct to Norway. 

If you need new precision spacers made after sorting out your final dimensions, hit me up...

You are welcome Sir, thank you for the challenge!

On 5/1/2024 at 12:13 AM, WackenSS said:

That link does not work for me.

 

My oem clutch was good and measured fine, I had some gunk in the slave but nothing serious. Seem that the springs from Dan is actually worn out and also seem like Barnett disc is worse than OEM 😐

Can't beat Honda OEM! 

I know the link is dead, but the Barnett part number is in the text. You can copy/paste it to a google search 

This is the Barnett part number for the 99lb springs I am using in my bike with the original oem clutch pack. It has ~52-53,000 miles on it. I can consistently spin up the rear tire on hard corner exits, have also done a burnout, hard launches, and countless wheelies with no slipping from the clutch.

Barnett 501-99-06091 Low Profile Lock-Up Pressure Plate Replacement Springs Red

It is similar, but different in a few areas. 

On 4/9/2024 at 4:11 PM, WackenSS said:

Shoot me an email with the file and what you want and I'll see if its open for me to adjust 🙂

Email sent to you...

Last year, I discovered that squeezing the belt by hand (increasing/decreasing tension) showed movement in the rotrex bracket assembly -  I went through and re-tightened/re-tensioned everything. It's worth checking as a maintenance item...

7 minutes ago, WackenSS said:

I am a dealer so got the pro version eventually. If you need any adjustments made I can help you with those "out of reach" numbers from the freeware 🙂

Just tell me what you need.

It is rarely needed with the self adaptive feature, but for heavy modifications there is no way around. This does not replace a Dyno! Do you use the target afr from Dan?

I am using 2 maps which the previous owner of my kit (Arrow here on VFRD) had developed on a dyno in NL. I haven't done much other than turn off the engine braking and turn on the automatic tuning.  I'd like to raise the rpm limit. Yaman wanted me to send him my unit for the update, and I didn't feel like taking the bike down for that. 

2 hours ago, Duc2V4 said:

I was able to download the RB software from their website. I don't recall if I had to provide a serial number or not. Message me, I have an install file from Dec 2023, if you still need/want it.

 

D

I have the free software so I can view and make the basic changes, thanks

Did RB/Dimsport help with that, or were you able to find software so you could DIY?

I'm interested in the software, if you can assist with that...

Front fender looks like it will have tire contact when you install a new tire & run it up to speed... 

As mentioned above, download the manual here or get your hands on a hard copy. It's invaluable if you are a diy type. 

Once you pull the clutch cover, use a q-tip soaked in simple green or wd-40 to clean the metal shield and the inside of the sight glass. This is the fastest & easiest way I have found after doing hundreds of them. 

The sight glasses and shields do build up with grime after high mileage and/or infrequent maintenance. 

20 hours ago, tsmitty said:

Whats the secret for removing the gauge hands?

Gently pry up on it using 2 thin flathead screwdrivers or butter knives. They are press fit to the motor shafts. Make sure the needles remain in the "power off" position when removing and reinstalling. You do not want to rotate or twist them, especially when reinstalling.

We have a member here that goes by Throttlepimp. His name is Kevin Sigler, he does graphic design and has been creating and fabbing gauge faces and decals for a long time. He's supplied all my decal and gauge face mods for my business and bike projects for almost 15yrs. Countless transactions with nothing but good results - including a set of gauge faces for a second gen VFR like yours to replace sun faded ones. 

He's not on here much, so shoot him an email at throttlepimp@gmail.com. Tell him you are a VFRD member, and that I sent you. He already has files and color match for your gauges saved from my project. Customizing a face for your voltmeter will be very easy for him. 

You can upgrade the 6th gen with oil injection by using an 8th gen cover and drilling 1 hole in your engine...

21 hours ago, Presson said:

Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input.

 

Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners.

Since we don't know each other, it's safer to ask.

At 12kmi, your standard head bearings are in need of service and possible replacement. Were they inspected when the forks were serviced?

Have you set the suspension up properly for your weight and riding style?

The short answer is yes, lowering the front end of your bike will steepen the rake angle and shrink the trail value which will make the bike steer quicker. 3mm is not a significant change.

Conversely, if your rear shock is collapsed, overworked, or otherwise insufficient for the task(as most oem are), the rear of your bike will be sitting lower than intended. This will cause the opposite of the effect you're looking for. Compensating for this by lowering the front is a band aid fix and can cause other issues like ground clearance and wallowing of the chassis. 

I'm not trying to talk you out of modifying or improving your bike... I've got more money and time and extra parts in my VFR than anyone really should... I'm trying to help you make it the best it can be...