jstanwood

Well, Ohlins already helped you decide not to get one of theirs. They stopped making them at least a year ago. Depending on the options you want, Penske may not be good either. What are you looking for? (twin or triple clicker, remote preload, ride height adjustment, etc?) I did progressive fork springs, the 641 (triple clicker), and remote preload, and the total was a whopping $1034, shipped. :o (I'm still sore.) One of the advantages of being dutch is the abilily to claim ignorance when it comes to words having a slightly different meaning.... but euh englis iz not me mother tongue... :goofy: That's what makes learning other languages so much fun! It's best to be with friends to help you learn the double meanings. :D Toll can also mean Super, whereas Tollwut is rabies..... My box reads <snip> Maybe they sent me yours, and yours to me! Mine is all German! (I know from their web site it was meant to be translated as "Brilliant Suspension", but Mad Chassis is more humo(u)rous. Wilbers box Racy--I mean Racing Suspension That is the exact orientation as mine. If you mount it with the hose toward the front, the hose will interfere with the exhaust. If you mount it to the back (180 degree rotation), it will likely hit the heat shield for the battery box. So, if I had to do it again, I would use pliers to make the hose go left it were going out the front. Don't forget to cover the shock in something to protect it while you stuff it in there. I used plastic food wrapping, so the only damage was to my knuckles.

I was more afraid of dropping the tank or hitting it with something while I was wrenching. I could have done the job with it on, but I appreciated the extra room while I did my contortions. Plus, the airbox lid is a good place for tools. :o Did you have any similar deals with the hose orientation? I was afraid to crank on the fittings to rotate them.

Lucky you! That looks like tasty :goofy: I love when funny stuff happens in translation. I have a very funny/sick mental picture or two. Have you seen American Pie? :lol: They usually frown on mounting of many kinds in public. Another good example was from the Wilbers box. I looked up "Tolles Fahrwerk", and it translated literally to "Mad Chassis". That's not what I was going for with my purchase. I'm hoping for a calmer chassis! There is an "establishment" near the race track here in Indy called the "Classy Chassis". I wonder if it's related? :D

Well, this may only help Dutchy, as he's the only other 4th gen owner I can think of that recently ordered a Wilbers shock, but I figured I would post this anyway. This install took me longer than I was expecting, but I sure "learned" a lot. Some tips: -When the service manual says to remove something, remove it. It's tight quarters under there. -Drain the gas tank. I trusted my petcock (hee-hee) to actualy shut off the fuel flow. Well, once I sat the tank on the ground and gas spewed forth, I found out that it doesn't seal so well after 10 years. So, it went up on the work bench, and I took turns draining it into extra fuel containers. (This obviously took some time.) -Lifting the rear wheel to get the weight off the shock mounting bolts lets you insert and remove them freely. -The shock mounting nuts are a pain to break loose with the limited clearance there is for a ratchet. 12-point sockets will work better here. -Removing the rubber thing that covers the front battery heat shield makes removing and installing the heat shield much easier. There are two bolts that hold it to the cylinder head, and two of the infamous plastic things that hold it to the subframe. Pictorial: A direction that didn't work An attempt at having the banjo bolts stick out the front of the shock. I would prefer this for the bolt clearance, but it would have been better to actually rotate the hose so it went left. This will wait until the next teardown. View from above Of course, once I got the hoses routed nicely, the battery heat shield hit the banjo bolt. I was tired of fighting, so I grabbed the tin snips and pliers. In hindsight, I learned I could have used pliers to rotate the hose around the banjo bolt. Then, I would rotate the shock 180 degrees and have the hoses point to the left. I will check for fouling after the first ride. Remote res & preload adjuster mount I ended up routing the hoses separately for clearance so they didn't rub on anything. Remote res and preload view 2 The goal was to have a sturdy mount and still have access for all adjustments. I also still wanted access to the lock. The helmet lock still works, although it's a little tougher to use. Final location Final mounting location with one hose on each side of the footpeg mount. There is still room to get the key into the lock. The ride report will have to wait until the snow and ice clear. So far, the bike actually bounces back up now when I take my weight off it. My wife helped to measure sag, and it was perfect out of the box. I also bought fork springs to match my weight, but I will wait until after a ride or two before installing them. I want to be able to feel the difference by making one change at a time. EDIT: Fixed some spelling and added another tip. The spell checker can't come back soon enough. It does add some extra humo(u)r at times, though.

Well, they cost nearly what those of us that want and don't have Y2K mirrors do, plus they have signals, so we could be ecstatic. You already have them, so there less "ecstaticity" avaliable for you.