HispanicSlammer

I have backups of the database dateing back to before I started the huge purge. I may be able to rebuild the post but its raw data so it will be a biaotch. I start my workweek tonight (graveyard 12 hrs for the next 3 nights) so dont expect it any time soon, and well I need to get motivated to do it too LOL. Ya know pych myself up to do grunt dirty data work. I had to get midevil after Robert (the owner of the server I rent space on) fixed the webspace counter, it was saying I was always ok then one day he fixed it and all of a sudden I was 300mb over the limit LOL opps howdathappen?

I havent ridden with it yet, It was not working correctly at first, I had to rewire it as it uses the power wires as an antenna. When I am actually awake during the day, and its not so cold I will make a few runs past the static radar spots here in town that tell you your speed and to slow down. Unfortunatly I burned the palm of my hand with a soldiering iron and its been too tender to ride with.

border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Dash Displays Whistler DE3500 Remote radar Detector, Garmin Quest GPS unit. Toggle switch is a mini on off on toggle switch purchased at Radio Shack, its for my grip heaters, and the two led lights on the dash light up when the heaters are on, yellow for low, red for high. The red led on the far left top is for my dual burning headlights, it lights up when I switch on the super high lights (low and high filimaments burning at the same time) its mostly warning for daylight riding, I dont want it on in the daylight.

border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Used this piece on the clip on bolt, and of course used a longer bolt, one I had in my toolbox. Just put it between the clipon and the bolt. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> This is what it came with, I used the ball at the top instead of the u bolt. Of course you can get all this stuff at http://www.gpscity.com I dont use a tankbag anymore, I have a Givi topbag that I use all the time now.

EBC replacement billet stainless disc I have been noticing a pulsation in my rear brake petal at high speed, I suspected a warped disk and so I inspected it last time I was changing my rear tire and it was warped out of spec (0.012in) runout it was way over that at .03in. I notice the pad was dragging and that must have overheated the disc to warp like that. Thanks to Rob M moderator here I was able to bid on a new one cheap on ebay from a seller here in Colorado. The EBC billet stainless unit I bought was a smidgen lighter and supposedly has more bite with brake pads, haven't tested that yet (too damn cold to ride today). THE PROCEDURE You can take off the disc bolts without having to remove the axle but it is tight and if the bolts are frozen like mine were it may be impossible, in any case you must remove the caliper to free the disc. I tried to with a 12mm boxed end wrench on one side (side facing the swing arm) and a 12mm socket on the other. It loosened one but the others were stuck, and there is very little room to work. I had to remove the axle. Old Disc shown rear wheel removed I had a rock stuck in the pad and it bore a groove on the inside of the disc too, it was tiny but just enough to grind away at the rotor. Craigs big socket - I did not have access to this time. I decided to remove the big nut on the hub, its huge like 35mm or something like that, my Friend Craig actually bought a socket for it but he wasn't around so I ended up using a big old pipe wrench, the nut was already a bit chewed up so I just went at it. It came right off. I loosened the bolts on the chain stays to allow room to remove the chain and the cush drive. (loosening the eccentric hub bearing holder pinch bolt and using the chain tool to loosen the chain). http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/chainadjust.jpg[/img] sometimes its easier to remove the chain stay but I just took off the aft bolts to let is flop around so I could remove stuff. Pop off the cush drive it just slides off the splines. Cush Drive This just slides off the splines of the axle, as long as the chain stay is not in the way, and the chain is removed. Removing rear Caliper Removing the rear caliper is easier with the cush drive off so you can fit a socket on to the bolts, otherwise a boxed end wrench will work, the cush drive gets in the way, remove the two bolts off the swing arm caliper hanger. I also removed the hex bolt out of the dog leg to let it swing down to were I could get at it better. Ecentric hub needle bearings inspect and lube bearings. At this point after the caliper is removed you can just pull the axle out of the eccentric. I noticed one of the pads was not seated properly?? OK that was the trouble eh and the caliper did not float properly sliding on the two pins, it is supposed to be able to slide side to side and float with the movement of the rotor. I worked it back and forth and would then slide freely. It has rubber boots over the pins one was ripped, I need to order new boots, I just slabbed some grease on it for now. I put in new pads while I had the caliper off. caliper removed. I used Honda grease on the bearings and the caliper pin that had the torn boot. Ecentric hub needle bearings inspect and lube bearings Rear Axle Removed Bolts are now accessible 12mm on both sides, use a narrow or thin 12mm socket as the bolt heads are recessed inside the carrier on the other side I put on the new rotor and reinstalled the whole thing. There is a spacer place between the rotor and the carrier don't lose it, and make sure to follow the arrow on the rotor so that it rotates in the correct direction. after pushing it back into my bike shed it rolled much easier!! Job done!

Gordon, the mini laptop stopped working, burned up somthing on the power board not as a result of the use on the bike. It was not very good in direct sunlight and huge on the tank. It was an experiment that only worked once.

its a cheesy Lockhart Phillips cover I got from my local dealer, just hanging on the accesories area wall. Probably find it from any LP dealer, or from them directly. I have the lp link in the links database click "links" above to find it.

OOHH free stuff I'll have to check that out!

Yes that was somthing I was concerned about but I can look at my forks and see that I dont compress them that much. I have the stiffest race tech springs in my forks that you can get.