Jump to content

tsmitty

Member Contributer
  • Posts

    420
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by tsmitty

  1. It looks to be running parallel to the gauges.
  2. Yes, very doable and perhaps use the mirror mount and a good grade 8 nut and bolt to put the initial smush on the tube... this sucks no computer in the garage and my old MacBook does not do VFRD well. Hows this one... the tube will reach down to the stamped oval-ish hole in the left upper in-fill panel mount tab.
  3. I was check out pictures of your "Chrissy" loaded for camping, taking me back some. 🙂 This is what I have with the official Honda bracket and my idea with the tape. How does this plan sound? I create a flat on the tube with a hook on the end that goes down that bolt hole for the mirror? There is more than enough clearance for the mirror bolt and the flat piece of tube, then the bracket tightens on this side with the mirror bolt...
  4. I was going to ask, the side at the bezel...would be desirable. All I have is a vise, cast iron surface plate (ok for common sence beating and filtering) and a bernzomatic torch. My team and I got this...
  5. Does the smush naturally follow the center of the tube? anyways... I just got back from our local Tractor Supply, the smallest tube they carry is 1/2x1/16 I think that is too large. The big A has this I'll get a stick next weekend and practice. Plenty to do in the meantime. The 3M idea and the fairing stay may be a winner as well; the "nesting" surfaces i stuck in the bezel will hold the tape perfect. Thanks Cap., as always your input is invaluable...you should charge by the word...extra for pics...well, except for me.
  6. Been going through the house on a repurposing scavenger hunt... If I come off the mirror mount with a thin 90 heading downward, come off the bezel with my formed tube; the other end of that formed tube will have a formed flat 90 to meet up with the piece of angle hanging off the mirror. Doable? Too light duty? Blowing smoke out some orifice somewhere? I know you know what this is haha
  7. Can you post a pic of your die set.
  8. that mirror stay is 1/2ish so a smaller 3/8 tube might be good looking. Chrome Molly?
  9. Cant lie...I tried my idea until I started forcing it to work. So you think 1/2 od tube will work? 3/8? I'll have to see what Lowe's has. Still...those clean crimps you're creating there are sweet.
  10. Whats your technique for making the crimp look good?
  11. @BusyLittleShop nice lathe work.
  12. I'll see what I can come up with. There'll wave to be some kind of dog leg on the piece and it will rest on top of the mirror mount pad area being sandwiched between the pad and the mirror hardware. Bringing the bracket up under the pad is too complicated because the pad piece is stamped and gusseted around the edge down there...(thinking out loud) The mount holes on the bracket will have to be so large on the mirror end, dictating tube stock diameter.?. 1/16 wall thickness Thanks for the input Captain, stay tuned...
  13. Moving right along...here is what I have so far. I don't think a hose clamp will be strong enough to secure the 1/8x3/4 steel bracket I'm using for the bezel to the mirror stay by its self. Maybe a small anti-rotation bolt at the bottom of the bracket and hose clamp? What do you think...
  14. I subscribed one year and had to watch WSBK on the web browser on my TV
  15. Then try to come up under the mirror mount nut? We'll see where this goes... The wire harness plugs in at the left turn running lights plug.
  16. Yup. Its warming up in the garage to work out there for a few. I'm going to work that angle. That one mount lug on the bezel looks plenty stout enough to hold the assembly.
  17. On the volt meter side, using the mount hole with a rubber washer for a little cushion. The knob for the trip counter is directly behind, so any brackets has to come around that...
  18. ummm..we have a crew of our brightest engineers...we are just hours away... I'm going to try to bring a bracket from under the left mirror mount, so it won't interfere too much with the speedo moving around. Also looked at a bracket going down to a mount just under the speedo mount and fab up my own damper. Or both. Possible bracket running alongside the speedometer and zip-tie the volt assembly to the tach. assembly, but thought that might be too much load on the two speedhometer damped mounts. What do you see here?
  19. Inching forward, I did some reinforcing to the underside of the bezel. I added some curved plastic from scrap to better allow the assembly to nest to the tach-o, that fabric stuff I have is flippin awesome at this, I still went by later with Plastex in the corners of the unions to make me feel better but I'm sure wasn't necessary, that fabric holds quite well. Fixed the threaded incerts for securing the meter. Any thoughts?
  20. Keny, I have a hard time keeping up with these forums but did you ever get this issue worked out? Between then and now I made a set of these and have a set to give if you want. Sorry for the interruption folks...
  21. This is the clearance behind the volt gauge after trimming the terminals.
  22. I have a wishlist going on Amazon. So I'll pull the tank and drain. start collecting supplies. I'll be pulling the plastic today or tomorrow to help me form some kind of mounting bracket of my temp gauge project. (kind-a-think its going to look bad ass)
  23. Yeah...Cap there's a new valve setting out in the drawer.... haha What primer will I be using? What am I using to scuff the paint? I'll start picking some of this stuff up. So glad I started this thread. Thanks Dude.
  24. btw I need a bracket making genius for my other project...haha
  25. Crap! This shit's starting to get real. Will I have to drain the tank to get into that petcock cavity? Plug the top hole and take the escutcheon ring off petcock? Valve stays in place?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.