Stéphane

Ok, I've got a few questions for you: 640603 is female? Are you sure? The block is female, so this fitting would have to be male, no? 2- My bike is de-linked, so I wouldn't need the "return line". Could you tell me which fittings I would need? 3- Since I only need one line, do I still need to drill holes? Thanks, SG If you onl ave one line you would only need to widen the existing holes from what I understood. But, if you've only one line... does that mean your rear calliper is only running two pistons? I thought the second line wasn't a "return" line, but a "sending" line from the PCV valve... running the third piston when you apply the front brakes... Here are a few pictures: 1st, no need for the female part, just 2 banjos: (just need to know the angle I should get). Auspañol, you can see on the picture what I did to link the middle piston to the other line.

Ok, I've got a few questions for you: 640603 is female? Are you sure? The block is female, so this fitting would have to be male, no? 2- My bike is de-linked, so I wouldn't need the "return line". Could you tell me which fittings I would need? 3- Since I only need one line, do I still need to drill holes? Thanks, SG

There you go Tony!

No wonder Ken and Radar got the "volunteer" tagged to their names. What a great write up and product. Nice :rolleyes:

The carbon fiber hugger is NWS. The carbon fiber clutch cover is Thurn. The clear signal lenses I ordered from service honda. To paint the rads black I used Grill / kettle paint (used for painting cooking grills). It's a flat / satin black, good to 1500 degrees. Clutch cover. I want one. Where and how? SG

Hey Seb, I'm getting my 83 VF750F today. I guess you could be of a big help to me. Right now, it's just a project. The guy is asking $300 for it. Here's a pic. Look at the sacrilege I can't wait to strip it down to the bone. Here in BC, the bike will be available for "Collector Plate" which means dirt cheap insurance, but it has to be in mint condition and if modified, the modifications had to be available at the time of production. Viva la 1st Gen!

+1 Lucky litigious Yanks!!! As far as I know Honda Canada is still denying the alternator recall issue let alone the 30 Amp fuse and blue ground connections. I'm gonna have to disagree here. The Alternator recall was done on my bike, and here's the newest from transport Canada: Harness Recall from Transport Canada

I got this one for cheap: I bought all the parts of ebay. I won't have to do the fiberglass because I'll buy a race bike next year, so this set will be up for sale.

congrats. At times, I'm looking for another set of wheels for track days. Unfortunately, right now I'm kinda broke.

Well, we only had 4 15min sessions, so my times went from 1:44 to 1:27. I can easily see another 5sec go, but after that, it will take times. I was talking to a friend who says that a lot of guys who have been racing there for year are still in the 1:22s. The pros do 1:09!!!!!!! Yes I did. BT002 type 3. I love them. I really tortured them :lol: . I haven't found the right pressure yet. 34/34 hot. I might go a bit harder on the back because they really "melted" but never let go(I'll show you the track pics when my friends - pro photographer, emails them to me). There was a guy on ZX6 who said he couldn't get close to me on the straight - too much power :goofy:

Ok here it is: The rear - not as nice, but it'll have to do. safety wiring And this one is for the community :beer:

Thanks. As for the weight, it's not 100lbs off, but 30lbs. I've taken the dry weight (470) and subtracted everything I've taken off: link brake sys, center stand, cat converter, rear fender etc etc. Not sure it is "pinned worthy", but thanks for the vote of confidence. Thanks, Seb. Once I was going to put c/f plates, but the deal fell through. I just have "oversized head" screws which seem to do the job.

First of, thanks to Sebspeed and Rivcyko for the advice and help throughout this project. Why do this? Well, to minimize the $ damage during track days. What you need: - A complete set of fairing for a 6th gen. I bought mine on ebay and here, and the total cost is less than $300 including the shipping. - Chicken wire. - aluminum door screen - Epoxy gel To begin, cut a piece of chicken wire to roughly the size of the light hole. Mold it in, and cut the extra until it fits nicely in. Next, cut a piece of door screen and wrap it around the the chicken wire. I poked the chicken wire through the screen to keep it in place. Next, use epoxy gel (5min - yeah right) to glue one corner at the time. Refer to this thread for this part: Easy breezy beautiful Hold it in place for 10 minutes. Some of them, you really need to hold it in place, and it is not that easy. The nicer the initial fit is, the easier this part becomes. I only used door screen for the turn signal holes. Not as tidy, but it'll do. Next, it will be the tail section.

Hey Trav, I'm starting my track day fairing, and this is a great idea to cover the headlight holes. I'll try to find smaller holes (i.e. more opaque) but it'll be much easier for me. SG

Bike theft was definitely a problem in Québec city as well, but not the VFRs. Gixxers and CBRs were the targets. A cop told me that you are allowed to use reasonable force to protect your properties. Bike lock and chained to a lamp post should discourage the average guys. But if someone really wants it, then they'll get it. Now think about who will buy the stolen bike/parts. Kids who have no money, and usually they don't ride VFRs. So, with a some protection, I believe you'll be fine. SG

Well, most definitely not as impressive as yours: 102hp 55lbs of torque. I know my PCIII is too rich because the power went down as the bike warmed up. (100.9hp on run 4). Anyhow, the guy is quite nice, and lives near my home, so I'll go see him later next month. But I don't expect to be near your numbers. SG ***Edit*** I should have mentioned that the gas I used was at least a month old. The R6 that was there before me went from 101hp last year, to 111 this year. The only real change was racing fuel. So, maybe wit a fresh tank of gas that will help.

Wish I would have dyno'ed the bike stock also. At the time I had no intentions of modding anywhere near this extent, but you know how that goes. I'll report fuel milage tomorrow, can't ride today, gotta go pick up my g/f's new car 3 hours away <_< . Owe well. That was the agreement when I bought Jeremy's CBR Track bike Friday that +1 bike means +1 car for her :pissed: . Owe well what can you do! Jason, I did my 02 bone stock: 98.4hps - look in my gallery for the print out. I will have my bike dynoed today or tomorrow: Catless, Loe Vince without baffles and the PCIII (the map loaded at this time is the Remus) I would have used yours or Coyze's but I don't have my PC this weekend, so that'll have to do.

I just did mine. I followed most of the how to except for the "button" hook. I did the button hook(open the wire, pull the new 12 gauge in, and curl it around). Then I added a dab of solder: Here what I did not to burn the isolation. I used a small torch (they have lighters that do the same kind of job) and heat only the coper part. Worked like a charm. Make sure the foil doesn't touch the isolation. End result: 14.3 without the fuse. 14.4 with the fuse on. I will redo the test once everything is connected again(no lights were connected when I did it).