Darth Bling

Just read some news about Shell Rotella.

Shell Rotella now meets JASO MA spec since switching to the new CJ4 standard to help improve diesel emissions for ash and sulfur. The old Rotella formulation did not meet JASO MA specs due to its high ash content.

I'm pretty sure the last 5- 1 gal. containers of Rotella T 5w-40 syn. were CI-4 Plus whatever that is? :unsure:

I think CI4-plus is the older standard that SJ4 is replacing.

I don't think the new Rotella T 5w-40 Syn will be out yet for another month or so. But, I think new the 15w-40 dino is already out. :unsure:

Just read some news about Shell Rotella.

Shell Rotella now meets JASO MA spec since switching to the new CJ4 standard to help improve diesel emissions for ash and sulfur. The old Rotella formulation did not meet JASO MA specs due to its high ash content.

Info can be found here:

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/viewtop...13e96d5e67e6976

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ub...amp;Number=3450

Don't forget the Blackbird shock as on VTEC stock option.

The Blackbird is on the left and the stock VTEC shock on the right (with an aftermarket spring).

The Blackbird shock doesn't have any extra adjustability over the VTEC shock, but it is slightly longer (higher ride height) and it has a stiffer spring (16.1 kg vs 15.3 kg).

But when searching VFRD for WP I didn´t get a single hit (edit: keny just posted a topic that mentions WP).

I found a few mentions of WP:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=347655

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=261938

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=234017

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=447989

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=400459

The problem with the search function is that it doesn't look for words with less than four characters. So, if you do a search for WP, you're not going to get anything. Same goes for "CBR" or any other two or three letter word. You could do a search for say "WP suspension" but then you'd get a whole bunch of results that you don't need. The trick: do a search for WP*. Adding an asterix makes the search engine look for any words that start with those letters (so CBR* would return any posts with CBR, CBR900, CBR929, CBR600, etc.). The nice thing about this is it bypasses the less-than-four-letters rule. :thumbsup:

Great pictures by the way! I would of loved to have been there on the tour. :sleep:

I found this site, which was very interesting to me...it details how to make your own heated clothing. Figured someone might find it useful:

http://www.shadowriders.org/faq/electricvests.html

Already tried it. I must of had a short or a broken wire when I put mine together because it never worked. I've been meaning (for the last couple of years) to take it apart and see what happened. I know it worked for a little bit because I tested it and it got nice and warm, but when I was doing the finally stitching, I must of broke something.

Anyway, even if I never fix it, I can still use the homemade vest by itself. It's nice and toasty.

I like Darthbling's approach to cold weather riding for your hands and lower arms. Heated handgrips plus handlebar mits. Combined cost of $40 for weather proof sleeves with wool lining to keep the heat on the hands.

Just some generic ATV handlebar mitts. Available in camo too. :P

The mitts work pretty well, but I stopped using them. The material is pretty flimsy and it's kinda tight inside the mitts to reach all the controls. I find it's too much of hassle to take them on and off all the the time. I didn't like using them in town because if you take you hands off the bars, say at a red light, it's hard to get your hands back into the mitts quickly. Plus, since I have an electric cruise control, the mitts had a bad habit of pressing against the front brake lever from the wind which would cause my cruise control to disengage.

I'm thinking my next 'mod' would be to craft a set of homemade handlebar mitts to solve these issues. Then I can leave them on the bike all winter. :D

After learning to masturbate, knowing how to weld is the handiest skill a man can have. Other difference between the latter and the former is that the latter takes special equipment and a little bit of training.

Yeah, but the former is so much more fun with some special equipment... :huh:

:goofy:

I'm assuming these remote start systems have a fail safe so you can't remote start your bike if it's in gear. :salesman:

Trivia question - Anybody remember the movie that uses the company name Yoyodyne? Starring Robocop & Doc.

I've never seen the movie, but it looks interesting.

What I'm not clear in is the base you used from the ones you purchased from Thurn. Not that I would make a set myself..may try contacting the makers of them to try to get a set with no eta on yours. Also want to be sure the ones you plan on making inclued the extentions on the base like I mentioned in earlier posts. LOL FYI I live near Buffalo NY..my ridding season is very short.

Nope, no plans on adding an extention. The base I used is from their 6th Gen LED mirrors.

Any chance...please Darth you can or will you at least post some details on what is needed and let us deside if we want to wait for your offer to make them or make them our selfs or contact the maker of the original ones you found to work from Thurn?

Everything you need to know should already be in the first post of this thread. If there's any part that's unclear about what I did and what parts I used, let me know and I will edit the post. :warranty:

Lol....impatient! It sounds like he CAD designed the mounts and is converting it to CNC friendly code so as to cut down time and costs. Let the man earn his living and get what little time off he gets for some sleep and riding. He won't leave us hanging like some people I know *coughsmyMEbuddycoughs* :unsure:

:D Yup, the little bit of free time I do have is spent either sleeping and (until recently) trying to fix my dryer which stopped working. <_< Getting my dryer to work ranked pretty high on my list since having dry clothes to wear is important to me. :P

Bump. Darth Bling are you going to get this project done soon or post details on how we can do it our selfs?

Sorry, work been taking up all my time this last month. Once my hours drop back down to 40 per week instead of the 60-80 that's it's been, I'll have more time to get the mirror mounts made. Progress has been slow so far, but I've been working on it.

I have tried this and this really works, the bike feels and sounds a lot smoother but a flatspot betwen 4k-5k rmp , but why !!! Any one got a clue why it's possible to do this with the ECU. Is there any hidden test modes to set up the ECU in, or perhaps some feature that don't got to the consumer lines.

And for the "I think Das Bone has documented this too" can't find it, can you give me any directions ... :goofy:

!! parden my english it's not my native language !!

From another post that I posted yesterday:

Apparently the ECU isn't fooled by the O2-eliminator mod and when it enters closed loop mode, it tries to adjust the air/fuel ratio. Unfortunately, any adjustments the ECU makes won’t register because the O2-eliminators are sending a constant signal to the computer. So the ECU continues to adjusts the air/fuel mixture in a vain attempt to reach the stoichiometric ratio and it eventually leans out the air/fuel mixture so much that the engine loses a ton of power. When you twist the throttle a bit, the ECU leaves closed loop mode and goes back to the default map. The engine suddenly makes power again and the bike lurches violently forward.

Ironically, the O2-eliminators are suppose to make the ECU think everything as just fine when it enters closed loop mode, but it instead has cause some bikes to surge severely.

The trick around this is to prevent the bike from entering closed loop mode. This can be achieved by starting the bike before the ECU has a chance to complete its boot up cycle.

Now, when you turn the ignition on, you see the digital gauges flash on once and then display normally. I believe this is caused by the ECU going though a boot up cycle. If you start the bike before the ECU finishes its boot up cycle, then it won’t go into closed loop later. My guess is that by starting the bike before the ECU boots up causes an error in the ECU. To protect the bike, the ECU loads the default map and sticks with it. So, once you turn the ignition on, start your bike immediately and you shouldn’t have any more surging issues. (Likewise, there’s no reason this wouldn’t work for bikes without O2-eliminators either).

This is my start up procedure (which seems to work very well to avoid this surging problem):

1) Turn ignition on.

2) Put the bike into neutral.

3) Wait for the fuel pump to prime the fuel system.

4) Once FI system is primed, then in quick secession: turn ignition off, push the starter button, turn ignition on, release starter once bike starts.

Holy crap! They want AUD $633 for a 6th gen kit. :huh: I remember a couple of years ago the kit were only $300. <_<

Still, I've heard nothing but good things about these guys. I know a guy who got one for his Valkyrie and he loves it.

Nope, I'm still around. I keep finding other things to do instead of working on these mirrors. I do have the design done, I just need to get it into a suitable format for the CNC shop and then they can give me a quote.

Hmmm. Almost needs black rims..............................

Just sent JoeW a message (now that he's back in business!) :thumbsup:

Thanks for the offer! I have a spare black front wheel that I am going to put up for sale very soon...

That wouldn't be my old front wheel, would it? :P

:goofy: on the frame comments. It really needs to be black too. B)

2) Darth Bling please give us detials on the exact part of the base we will need. I think I'm wrong when I all ready asked Thurn for these.

Yup, those are the wrong mounts. Sorry, guys, I've been out of town for while. Just got home not too long ago and I haven't had a chance to check up on VFRD in a while. The Thurn mounts that I used work fine, but I have a design that I think is much better. I just need to find a CNC shop that's local to me to get a quote on machining these things. They'll also need to be anodized black too. As soon as I have more info, I'll post the details. (Trust me, I don't want to drag this out to BLS's lower peg block porportions)

I am thinking of changing my 99 VFR over to the 929 or F4i shocks. Main advantage is compression damping adjustable? The F4i needs heavier springs and revalving but is closer in height, whereas the 929 is shorter but spring is correct weight. I also have an almost new CBR1100xx shock but that looks like the VFR shock, so not worth changing probably. I had a Works Perf shock on the 100xx when I had and it was great but I don't want to spend the $750 on the VFR.

MikeG

I would go with the 929 shock if I were you. You'll get compression damping and you can easily add spacers to make it the right height. The F4i shock would work too, but then you would have to get a new spring for it.

The CBR-XX shock is also shorter than the 5th gen stock, but it's rated for about 100 lbs more than the VFR spring. So, if you're on the heavy side or do a lot of two-up riding, it might be the way to go. Of course, you can just get a heavier spring for the F4i or 929 shock too. :blink:

I say crack them open and found out how thick the walls are in the forks. If shaving 1 mm off around the circumference is more than 25% of the total wall thickness, I say don't do it. (I don't know why 25%, sounds like a good number).

Conversely, what about enlarging the bottom triple clamps to 56 mm? There's a lot more material there to shave off than on the forks.

I believe the diameter of the fork tubes are 50mm at the top triple clamp and 54mm at the bottom clamp.

Looks nice! I like it. :thumbsup:

Ok so if you take the cans off, you drop 19.1 lbs. With a power commander you could up the fuel to off set the lean condition. What are the down falls besides being loud?

The police...

Seriously, downsides could include: loss of mis-range, loss of fuel economy, looks fugly (IMHO), and getting hassled by the police. :goofy:

See if this works.

No worky for me, is your account set for public viewing? :joystick:

Account options ---> Album Settings---> (edit my album settings)---> Change Album Settings---> My album is: Public/Private

Here's the direct link for the movie: http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/hob...og/P1010560.flv

You'll also need a flv player though to watch it.

Darth Bling, did you run the wiring through the tiny hole right BESIDE the hollow rivet? If so, how does one prevent damage to the wiring when you fold the mirrors? I can't see much there; my mirrors are still in one piece until I figure this all out......

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner...

Yes, I ran the wire through the little hole besides the hollow rivet. I enlarged the hole a bit and smoothed out the rough edges with a Dermal grounding bit. I also enlarged the hole on the Thurn mirror mounts, cut the black cover off from the wires to give the wires a bit more room, and I stuck a couple of washers in between the mirror mounts and the GSXR stocks. The mirrors can actually rotate 45° each direction without binding the wires. :thumbsup:

I've been thinking about it some, and I know there's a better way to mount the mirrors. I've got a few designs in my head that would work, but I need to get in touch with a CNC shop to find out how much it'll cost to make some custom mounts (unless vanion2 beats me too it and his friends makes some mounts). I really don't think I'll get anything done this month since I've got a lot of work to do on my bike in anticipation for my first track day in June, but there's a good chance I could get something fabbed up for wholesale by the end of the summer. :blink:

Looks great. How is the visibilty to the rear? Just received my Lobster extenders and wanting to do the Rivcyko LED trick, but I have

always liked the idea of the mirror signals. Wiring? Just simple inline splicing or some other trickery.

Now you can swap out the lower lights for engine vents

Visibility to the rear is similar to stock; the mirrors stick out about as far.

Wiring wasn’t too bad. Just tapped into the wires from the lower lights. I wired the mirrors so they act as running lights, but when I hit the turn signal, they turn off and on in time with the regular turn signals. All you need to do is just ground the lights with the turn signal wires.

Yeah, turning the lower lights into ram air vents has crossed my mind. :beer: