Darth Bling

You might be able to use a Suzuki or other stock handlebar switchgear with high/low beams switch, turn signals horn and flash-to-pass, but I'm not sure if any switchgears have the hazards switch on the left side. Plus I believe you'd still have to wire the hazards in on your bike.

You mean like this?

And no, it's not plug and play.

I would like to be heard around busy traffic before they see me. (seems to work for harley's)

Oh man! This thread has potential!

What a selfish plug Darth, Here let me help you.... :rolleyes:

Thanks! :biggrin:

Does anyone here know of any replacement mirrors available.... that bolt on the same way.... but simply have black painted stalks... rather than the OEM , rubber boot covered chrome/brass type?

Yeah, go buy some 2000-2001 VFR mirrors.

Or, if you want to go with lighted GSXR mirrors, I can sell you the mounts required to adapt them to your VFR. I have a thread in the "Bargain Finder" forum that has all the details.

how long of a ride from Seattle is it and what is the best route to take?

Philomath, OR is 95 miles from the WA/OR border I-5. Mary's Peak is another 20 miles past Philomath.

If you're trying to make good time, I'd suggest slabbing it down I-5 from Seattle.

So i mounted mine up a few days ago and put about 200mi on them. I can't complain, they do all i ask of them.

a concern i had was that when setting the bead for the front i didnt get the usual POP but they rather slid into position. Becasue of this i went into la-la-land for a minute and overfilled them quite a bit. i deflated shortly after. could i have damaged the tire? it rode fine and i dont see any deformations. are there any tell tale signs? thanks

Nope, I highly doubt you damaged the tire.

Low-profile car tires are notorious difficult to get the bead to set. My dad, brother, and I fought with the tires from my mom's Audi for hours tired to get them to set. We eventually got them mounted and then later my dad took the tires down to tire shop to get them balanced. He mentioned to the shop about how difficult it was to set the beads. That's when they told him that low-profile tires are a PITA and that if they can't get them to set right away, they pump the tires up to 100 psi or so and stick them in the corner of the shop. After a few hours, the beads will usually pop into place. :fing02:

I've heard plenty of people say that if their bike ever gets stolen, they don't want it back because it's probably going to be trashed.

Personally, I'd like to get my bike back if it ever gets stolen just so I can get my mods back. But, everyone's situation is different.

If you think Lo-Jack is a worthy investment, then it is. All that matters is if you're happy with it. Hopefully you'll never have to use Lo-Jack's services, but I have to say it would be nice to have it on my bikes and car. And, if I could get it for only $100, I'd jump on it in a heartbeat. :idea3:

My foot rides on the rear brake lever while I'm on the peg of my '06. I would like to lower it a bit. I want to be sure not to f up the operation of the brake light while at it. Can anyone be specific about to to accomplish this?

Thanks,

Gunzer

You should be cruising on the balls of your feet. You should not have your heels on the pegs. There isnt really an adjustment for the brake pedal. You could adjust the master cylinder and brake switch but you would just be compensating for poor foot placement.

I have big feet as well.

Actually, there's quite of bit of adjustment in the rear brake pedal. Many of us who've gone with lower foot pegs (Buell or BLS blocks) have had to lower the pedal. :idea3:

Gunzer, check out these post for instructions on how to adjust your brake pedal. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...mp;#entry215329

<sarcasim>That's news to me about cruising on the balls of my feet. Guess I've been doing it wrong for the last 40k miles. </sarcasim>

Seriously though, he can put his foot anywhere he wants if he just out cruising. If he's out in the twisties, then yes, definitely get those feet up! :blink:

Who needs the No-Mar tire changer when you can just go out and buy a

HF TIRE CHANGER

It's cheap!!!

Could work for those wanting GP style shifting too :fing02:

I doubt it.

In this picture, it's set up for regular shifting. If you wanted to go to GP, you'd need to flip the linkage near the front, which will only work if you remove the kickstand. Otherwise, the kickstand gets in the way when it's folded up. When I switched my VFR to GP-shifting, this was the problem I ran into.

Alternatively, you could flip the shifter on the rearset upside down (like Vortex did on the 07 CBR600RR). But, this may cause some control issues if you're stepping on the shift linkage (unlike the Vortex setup which places a guard over the linkage).

Yup, old news.

But, if you do break down somewhere, make sure you check www.vfr911.com. There could be someone in the area that's willing to help out.

I know that 1994-2008 VFRs all have the same bolt pattern...

Not so. The fifth (1998-2001) and sixth (2002+) generation mirror mount patterns differ. You cannot interchange mirrors between these generations. Can't reliably speak to the earlier generations, but IIRC they did not interchange with the fifth.

Correct. The bolt spacing for the 5th gen mirrors is 50mm and for the 6th gen it's 40mm.

I would send an email to David Silver Spares. They might be able to hook you up.

Otherwise you best bet is to either find them on ebay.

Has anyone seen or are useing these bars?

They have kits to extend lines too.

convertibars.com

check out the video on their site.

Not really new. They've been around for quite a while.

I've had a set on VFR after doing the RC51 front end swap. I really like the ability to drop the bars down low for track days and then raise them back up for regular riding.

They are pretty strong, but I found that bars would rotate in the clamps if too much purchase was exerted on them (like from strapping the bike down to a trailer).

I will see you at the cafe at for lunch.

Portlanders, we should probably leave around 9:15 if we want to get there in time for lunch at 11:00.

I mounted both my Continental Road Attack tires according to the arrow on the side wall, so that the arrow is turning the direction the tires will be while rolling forward. However, the "C" tire tread pattern goes the opposite ways on the front and rear wheel because of this. I am assuming the little arrow on the sidewall is correct, but why would the tread pattern be opposite front and rear?

It drives great, good turn in, good wet traction, and they are infinitely better than the Dunlops the bike came with, so I'm not worried about it, just curious.

Because the rear tire is for going forward and the front tire is for stopping. The tread pattern on the front reversed is so water is channeled away when braking.

Thoughts?

Triple Clamp Assy 072108.jpg

Yeah, you could of at least picked up the place before you took pictures of your filthy floor... :blink:

It should take you between 1.5 to 2 hours to install.

Coolmax is great stuff. Besides having some shifts, I've also got some coolmax Alpinestar socks and UnderArmor boxer briefs. Great for hot weather riding. :warranty:

I've thought about an exhaust system that could both be "throaty and obnoxious" and "stealthily quiet" (I.E. stock sounding) on demand for a while now. Having built a few custom exhaust systems, I've always thought it would be really cool to have an electronic servo actuated EXUP type "dump valve" going to a barely baffled can with a "stock type" heavily baffled can open all the time. I think it would be really cool to have a bike that had a civilized, low db. exhaust note that with the touch of a button could transform into a hellacious sounding beast. I built a "RC211v/GSV-r" type 2 into 2 exhaust for my VFR and my RC51 has dual M4s so I don't currently have a ride to try this system out on. Maybe on my next project.

The current CBR600RR (07-08) and the recent CBR1000RR (06-07) have servo-acutated valves in the headers (about the same place our catalytic convertors are on the VFR). Honda stuck them on there for sound emission reasons. Serveral people of dyno'ed their bikes with the valve operating normally vs with the valve disabled and there were no differences in the dyno charts.

So, Honda already does something similar on their CBRs. I'm sure you can find tons of these Honda valve units since many people have gone to full aftermarket exhausts. Or, maybe a wastegate-type dump valve like what's found on turbo systems would work?

I have to add that I like to ride fast and I do it out away from everyone as possible, I try to consider every other person I come across whether there in a cage, on a bike, or in their yard. I will do everything in my power to make the smallest negative impact on their live and that directly effects our lives as riders.

Our sports future is in our hands! :laugh:

Isn't this the sort of the same thing that Tom is trying to do with his exhaust? From the sound of things (no pun intended), Tom wants to install some sort of bypass valve so he can run his bike quiet around town, but when he's out in places where there's no people or people who just don't care he can open her up.

That's exactly why I was thinking about welding in a dump valve before the stock mufflers. So that I could keep it very quiet when I wanted to. I already did some moding to the stock exhaust with a drill and an air-chisel but when I ride with my brother who has Yoshi pipes I can bearly hear my bike.

Making your own tunnable mufflers is a great idea. But I don't have the budget or the time. I'll probably run some tests to see how loud the bike is with open mufflers.

What's the quote? "Do it right, or don't do it at all" Seriously, the whole bypass quiet/loud option sounds like a great idea. I would love to see you pull it off. :idea3: But, if you're not going to do it and instead are just going to run open mufflers, then I have to agree with Baileyrock. We have to ambassadors to our sport. If we don't, nobody will.

Are you sure you didn't mean to by a Harley. Sorry, but loud pipes don't save lives. Being an alert and engaged rider does. Load pipes only tell people that some a$$hole just rode by. Sorry, had to get that off my chest. :laugh:

Nice way to offend everyone. I think about half the people on the forum have aftermarket pipes which are loud wot.

If it bothers you wear earplugs.

Yeah, but most people don't ride around WOT all the time, so it's a moot reason. If you believe load pipes will help people notice you, that's your prerogative. And, like you said, it's off topic.

Let's get back to the topic

Yes, let's do so. Even though aftermarket pipes are "straight through", it doesn't mean they have less back pressure than san cans. The bends and curves contribute to the restriction of the exhaust, as well as the longer length of the exhaust. I think you'd still want to put some short of restriction in to keep back pressure from getting too low.

I think if you were fabricate a MotoGP style exhaust, it would be a much better idea. Not so much from a loudness point-of-view, but because that particular style of exhaust is so sweet looking. And, it would be quite trick since it would be a custom job and nobody else would have one like it. JM2¢, but any monkey can take the exhaust cans off their bike and ride around. Now, you could build some sort of exhaust bypass, but then you'd be adding complexity and weight to the bike.

Personally, I think you should look into some Leo Vince cans. I get so many compliments from people about mine. They aren't loud at all (except when you're hammering it), so they're quite nice in town. But, they've got a nice rumble to them, which you can really hear inside your helmet. Very nice! :idea3:

I built my own heated vest once, but it only worked for a few minutes before I broke one of the wires. :laugh:

http://www.shadowriders.org/faq/electricvests.html

I probably wouldn't recommend the DIY method (it's lot of work, especially if you sew the vest yourself).

Surely there must be some way to adjust the timing?

PCII. :fing02:

Unfortunately, they don't make the PCII for the 6th gen.

I've gone the opposite way to you - advanced timing and extra fuel at high revs / full throttle, and run high-octane for that.

:fing02:

I thought you'd could take advantage of the higher octane by retarding the timing, so the spark plug fires when the piston is higher up in the bore?, where low octane fuel would ignite under compression alone (pre ignition). I remember seeing some where on the net where you can buy round steel plates with timing notches cut into, but at slightly later intervals to retard the timing for CBRs'. But none for the VFRs'. Then I relised the Viffer has electronic ignition controlled by a computer.

Surely there must be some way to adjust the timing?

And just switching of the PC will revert back to factory?

Maybe on a higher compression engine like the CBR, but the VFR engine is mildly tuned as far as motorcycles go.

I had a spark plug coil go bad on my bike one time. The injector on the dead cylinder continued to squirt fuel into the cylinder, there just wasn't any spark. During the entire 200 miles I rode home running only on three cylinders, the engine never pinged or knocked. I'd say there's no reason to go to higher octane with the VFR because with regular 91 octane (87 PON for those of in the states) gasoline the bike doesn't have any pre-ignition problems.

Sure you can adjust the timing on the VFR, but you'd have to replace the entire ignition system with an aftermarket system that you allows you to adjust ignition timing.

Not sure if there's a way you can just "turn off" a PC3. You can load a "zero map" and that would get you back to factory.