ducnut

2 hours ago, RC51Nick said:

I got lucky with a customshop about a half hour from my house.  Expanded the Staintune mid pipe and no cradks.  fits the header perfectly.  Need to get a bigger clamp tho from Staintune but hopefully that wont be a problem.

 

I do have a couple of questions.  What's the distance between the inside edges of the spring clamps on the rear header pipe to the rear head pipes.  Not sure if I have mine seated fully.  also before tightening everything up the header is up against the swingarm.  Anyone else have issues with this or when I tighten the pips to the head the header should move away from the swingarm.  Sorry about all the questions but I'm assuming I'm one of thel ast ones to install their pipe from the last run.

 

Nick

Don’t bother with Staintune. I used a FiveStar Mfg barrel clamp. 
 

WD40 liberally applied to the slip joint. You should know to never try and insert anything dry. 
 

The header shouldn’t be up against the swingarm. You 

On 4/30/2024 at 2:15 PM, RC51Nick said:

 

Now to get my staintune mid pipe expanded to fit over the header outlet and I can put everything back together.

 

Be extremely careful with the expanding. I took my header and Staintune to an OG exhaust dude, who gently expanded, rotated, gently expanded, rotated, etc. He probably spent 20 minutes on it, for fear of splitting it. 

On 4/21/2024 at 6:37 PM, RC51Nick said:

Question for those who have installed the new header on their 6th gen. How do you handle the heatshield  attached to the R/S rearset.  Did you remove the shield with those hard to get nuts on the back of it and move the rearset out of the way?  Did you brake the break system and remove the whole rearset/shield assembly.  I know it has to be removed to get to the rear header and clamp boltts.

 

I'm finally getting around to installing my header after a hip replacement this winter.  Any help would be appreciated. I' really dont want to brake open the brake system with stories I've heard about trying to bleed a linked brake system.

 

Thanks,

 

Nick

Since no one has responded, I’ll give my 2¢. 
 

When I tore down my 5th Gen, that heatshield and everything Honda has jammed into that space was a right PITA. The 6th Gen is a bit different, but, you still have to get all that out of the way.

I'd strongly suggest you buy OEM Honda replacement studs and nuts and replace the original bits. This way, you’ll have no issues. 
 

Don’t be afraid of the braking system. Doing so will be at your peril. People avoid servicing the hydraulics on these bikes, because of the unknown. It’s the worst thing you can do, because the system will eventually fail, altogether. At that point, you’ll be chasing gremlins and searching for used replacement parts. You’re better off to be preventive. Just buy a vacuum bleeder and follow the service manual’s bleeding procedures and you’ll have no problems. 

Iridium plugs in a 5th Gen? Oh boy!

This is the difference in using @SEBSPEED’s rearset adapters versus using the originals. The master cylinder is moved forward and I ran my brake line to the underside of the swingarm. Both help get the brake line away from the exhaust. And, it’s a cleaner, simpler look. 

Not mine. 

Hi ducnut,

Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

As you may recall from my build, a VTR fan blade will reverse airflow and blow outward through your left radiator. It appears to be a more efficient design, as well. 
 

Also, my suspension was done by Traxxion with slightly more front spring rate and the same rear. Internet experts have claimed the rates are too stiff. Riding it proves otherwise. Like yours, it’s amazing. 

Race Tech sell the Schrader valve to recharge an OEM shock. 

Most common spring rates I’ve seen are over 1000#. My Penske has a 1300# spring and is perfect for my fluctuating 200-220 pounds. 

You’re going to need to alter the valving, if you’re planning to change the spring. Not sure anyone will be giving up shim stack info for a specific spring.

If it were me, I’d buy a YSS and be done with it. However, the shock will highlight how bad the frontend is and you’ll be needing to rework that, as well. 

6 minutes ago, CornPoweredV4 said:

I've always heard great things about Staintune, but unfortunately the ones I've found on eBay were in pretty ratty condition. Luckily it looks like they're planning on making brand new VFR800 pipes again soon based off their website https://staintune.com.au/.

 

I emailed them asking when they plan on having them available for VFRs again and for what generations, I will post an update here when I get an answer.

 

 

There’s a used set on the vfr800 buy/sell page on FB. 
 

Staintune. 

3 hours ago, VFR78 said:

Are they better than the Delkevic? What is the cost? How much extra tuning is needed to make them work well? Might be interested!

All you need to look at is the merge collector and how the cylinder merges are arranged. Delkevic are a garbage header. 
 

Tuning would be beneficial, but, not necessary. 
 

Polished VFRD header, if you didn’t see it earlier in the thread. Still looks as good, today. 

22 hours ago, squirrelman said:

THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

😉

Not to get too off-topic, but, this was my little buddy, when I lived in Illinois. 

20-25mm F&R, depending on stiction. I did a quick check, when newly assembled, but, I’ve not bothered to check it since. Might be a bit more, now. 

1 hour ago, raYzerman said:

ducnut, a 1300 lb. spring?  You sure?  Must ride like a rock..... a 200 lb. guy only needs an 850, or 900 at the most....... sometimes there's a number stamped on the spring, and it can be decoded, spring rate is usually the last few digits........

Yep. The heaviest Hyperco that’d fit the shock AND swingarm space. From what Eric Trinkley (Penske tech) told me, the VFR’s linkage ratio requires a heavier spring than one would normally think. And, the bike rides amazing. I have a buddy with a stock VFR, who spent a whole day on it, because he loves it so much. That day, I rode my SV, which is also outfitted with Martin and Eric’s work. Likewise, it’s fantastic to ride, though the lighter weight of the bike means it’s not quite as plush as the VFR. 
 

*Disregard the invoice’s model of shock, as it’s mounted on an 8983. And, it was built to a 6th Gen’s length, because I wanted to start with a longer shock body, to raise the rearend. 
 

For reference, I’m on 1.05kg springs in the front and a 1300lb spring in the rear. The front has Traxxion Dynamics Axxion valves (simple setup) and the rear is a Penske 8983. Martin Musil, at Traxxion, has done all my stuff, the last 15yrs. The bike rides amazing. 

I don’t believe you’ll ever get the stock stuff to feel great. All my bikes have gotten Axxion valves or AK-20 cartridges and some variant of Penske. Once I rode decent stuff, I’ve never bought a bike without the thought of sending off the forks and buying a shock. The investment is so worth it.
 

You can get into a custom-built Wilber’s fairly inexpensively and probably the best value going. There’s one on FB at £500, right now. For the front, just send them off. A good shop will put the tubes in a lathe, check runout/straighten, and polish them. Either Race Tech or Traxxion valves will be good. If the shop has a solid database, the valving should come back perfect. Develop a relationship with a suspension guy and you’ll always have someone who’ll know how you like a bike and set it up accordingly. 
 

Unless the springs have been changed, I can’t believe they’re of the correct rate. Both ends are massively undersprung, stock. 

Just a cheap, eBay piece. I tried one on my 5th Gen.

1 hour ago, raYzerman said:

Those rear shock spring rates recommended by Penske and RaceTech are plain crazy, way too harsh.  For a 200 lb rider, shouldn't be more than 900.

RaceTech gave me a shock for my FJR, a heavier bike, with an 1100 lb. spring, rode like a truck..... had it resprung to 850 and it was perfect.

Their fork spring rates are good at .9-1.0, yes, straight rates only up front.....

Martin Musil, at Traxxion Dynamics, has been my go-to suspension tech, the last 15yrs. Eric Trinkley, at Penske, has built five shocks for me, over roughly the same time period. My bikes have always been perfect, regardless of any charts. 

Yep, on the weight. 

Some interesting numbers, on spring rates. I’m running 1.05kg with Axxion valves in the front and a 1300# spring on a Penske 8983 in the rear and the bike is fantastic. 

Hi ducnut,

Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

I went to a guy with 40+ years in the exhaust business. We probably spent 30min and countless passes, just working the expansion of my Staintune ever so slightly with each pass. Gotta’ be super-delicate with doing it. 

If you’re shopping used R/R’s, you want a Shindengen SH847 off a 2014+ V-Strom 1000 (Suzuki part #32800-31J00). This will get you latest in Series R/R technology. 
 

Neither aforementioned R/R’s are plug and play. You’ll need to source the plugs and create a harness. I’d strongly suggest replicating the Roadstercycle harness and getting the charging circuit out of the main harness, as well as adding some form of circuitry protection. Using an SH847 and creating a harness like shown, utilizes the battery as a power bank for the bike to run on. This allows the SH847 to open/close the charging circuit as needed (the SH847 does not shunt), which is what allows the stator and R/R to run so much cooler.

On 9/15/2021 at 12:50 PM, bmart said:

Also discovering the VFRness is different...and the R/R?

You want the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit. It includes a Shindengen SH847 Series R/R, which is the latest in R/R technology. Also, it includes a stand-alone wire harness that gets the charging circuit out of the bike’s main harness and it adds a 30A breaker before the battery, two things that add a level of protection. Lastly, this setup uses the battery as a power bank, which allows the R/R to open/close, or cycle, the charging circuit, which allows the stator and R/R to run cooler.
 

Forget about the VFRness. It’s a waste of time and money. 
 

I was working in a Honda dealership, in 2000. We had gotten in a new VFR that I drooled over, everyday. Unfortunately, there was no way I could afford one. The memory of that bike has always stuck in my mind, so I get the affinity for yellow bodywork. As much as I don’t like the wax idle unit or catalytic converter, I’d still go for the 2000. Just keep in mind, despite its low mileage, it’s still a 21yr-old bike and will need all the same maintenance items as a higher mileage bike of the same year.