DannoXYZ

Wow, that's pretty darn good wear for 3000 miles!🙂 Will probably make it to 10k, eh?

If you look at old sprockets with rubber, you'll see little divots on them where chain has been hitting for years. The cushioning isn't between sprocket and countreshaft. It's the landing-pad for chain when it hits sprocket. You can actually hear difference.

Yeah, what exactly is problem? - bike doesn't crank? - fuel-pump doesn't prime? - FI fuses blow when you turn kill-switch to RUN? - bike cranks but engine doesn't fire? - no spark? - yes spark, but no fuel? - ???

Depends upon what actual problem is. You might have short somewhere, which is why that green wire melted. Replacing it with new wire may not fix short and will melt new wire just same.

I bought this lithium battery. Works great, saved about 9-lbs over factory one. 🙂 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09LM224Z5

It should be fine. You've got tinned-wiring that's corrosion resistant. And nice seal with adhesive heat-shrink. Only issue would be max-power rating across that connection. But SH847 only transmits as much as needed, rather than 100% of stator-output fulltime like factory RR. So you're looking at lots less current going through that connection. Some related topics I've found: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25778 <-- actual current measurements https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/actual-stator-temps-sh847.49533/ - temp testing https://www.douglasvanbossuyt.com/category/hobbies/motorcycle/ - more temp tests https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/sh847-series-regulator-rectifier-install.42754/ https://www.kawasakiversys.com/thre...-shunt-star-delta-technical-info-2017.222367/ https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=20426.0 https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index...-new-to-vfrd-from-new-jersey-need-helpadvice/ https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/biting-the-bullet-on-charging-system.28810/page-3 https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums...t-step-wires&p=2845062&viewfull=1#post2845062 https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.104504/ https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1320648-stator-trouble/ https://www.createfixshare.com/articles/drz400-sh775-regulator-rectifier-upgrade/

Here's example of brand-new crimped connectors that burned up as well. Other than being new, it is not an improvement over Honda's selection of bare-brass uncoated connectors. Highest-capacity 1/4" spade terminals I could find is rated for 24a. Honda uses that in many 30a circuits (starter-solenoid). Due to lack of contact surface-area, it heats up and burns well before hitting max-rating when tiniest amount of corrosion develops. Soldering lowers temps significantly at wire to terminal joint and keeps out corrosion, but you still have limited contact surface-area between male-female connection. Ultimate solution is this: I did this on my RC24 10-yrs in. It's held up fine for past 27-yrs without any signs of overheating, much less burning. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Having worked in 2 of these fields, NASA & Army, I can confirm benefits.

Orange combines multiple ground-wires for different circuits together. Corrosions here can cause ground-loops where each circuit may have different voltage drops from batt +pos. Results in a 3rd circuit that flows the difference. On newer models, Honda went to ring-terminals and bolted them together for better contact-pressure and keep out corrosion. Only problem with solder is if you use so much it wicks out past end of terminal. That's only case where it's different than crimp-only. Straw-man really as no one uses that much. And physical loads on wires don't even come close to fatigue-limits (except in case of large transitions). Just a little dab at tip to seal wire-end from moisture being wicked into wire and causing green/black wire disease. And fills air-space between strands to improve conductivity with much larger contact surface area. Most of wiring issues I've seen are from using generic crimps with generic squashing crimpers. Transition from small wire to large crimp causes much larger stress-riser than soldered connections. In order for crimps to even come close to their potential (like used in those comparisons), you need a matching crimping frame+die +terminals system. Where die generates a W or hexagon shaped crimp which squeezed OD inwards to remove as much air from between wire-strands as possible. But not so much squeeze it takes metal of terminal past plastic/yield limits. I use these to build my harnesses https://www.newark.com/c/connectors/connector-tools-accessories/crimp-tool-dies?brand=amp-te-connectivity To make proper crimps like these: Then if you add a little dab of solder to seal end, but not so much you see it flow past crimp into strain-relief, that's even better! 🙂 Here's guidelines to making good crimps. Without proper matching crimper die+terminal system, best to back it up with solder. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rl2jsBrLlF_GMpFynaE21_X0bIfOdWr3/view?usp=sharing

Yeah, staying away from starter-fluid is good idea as it's toxic to slide-diaphragms on carbs. You also just use squirt-bottle and spray in about 2-3cc in airbox While you're there, measure power to injector connectors: - key ON, measure voltage at each injector-connector terminal (8 total). Volts x8 = ??? This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... many times less. There's only 12-14 points to measure and problem will be obvious. Parts are seldom bad, no use measuring them. Most of time, it's corroded connector terminals or broken wiring.

Thanks for write-up! Did you happen to measure temp of old RR? Try touching this RR after a ride. 🙂

What colour are sparks? if you're pulling fuel rail, leave injectors attached. Place little cups under each injector. Crank for 10sec How much petrol did you collect in each cup? Are they fairly identical amounts? As test of fuel, spray some starting-fluid into airbox, wait 5-sec and start. Does it run?

uh, do you even have spark? Have you pulled fuel-hose off rail to see if petrol actually flows out of pump? Measured to see if pump even gets power? Starter system is on completely circuit than EFI system. You can remove entire EFI system and it would still crank just fine like it does now. There may be just one bad part in EFI system, or they can ALL be bad. Would result in exactly same endless-cranking symptoms with no starting. Need compression; fuel & spark. Let's assume we have #1. Need positive confirmation of other 2. Photos of spark jumping plugs, petrol streaming out of fuel-hose onto newspaper with today's date

True, getting low-power relay-activation signal is OK. But nothing that draws significant power that can cause extra-drain, shorts and blown fuses like OP experienced. 🙂

NO!!! You'll be doing exact same thing PO did and creating a mess! Voltmeter & heated grips should have their own brand-new wires connected directly to battery +pos & -neg terminals with new and separate fuse. Share nothing with bike's original harness.

Don't artificially apply power to anything on harness. Can fry something important like ECU. Use physician's credo of, "Do no harm". Only passive, non-interference, non-destructive testing through measurements only; making no changes to system. Then let the numbers tell you what's wrong. Do following measurements 1. measure resistance between chassis-ground and engine-stop relay's red/org wire. ohms = ??? 2. measure voltage at engine-stop relay's blk/pnk wire. Volts = ???

Yup, we have 'em Oxford indoor motorcycle covers Nelson Rigg is popular brand in U.S. https://www.nelsonrigg.com/motorcycle-covers I've been trying to find one of these, but no luck.

Bleeding brakes is fight against laws of physics. Bubbles are rising up hose away from caliper. So you have to pump-open-close to push fluid faster than bubbles are going backwards. The squeeze-lever-overnight doesn't work on rear-brake because MC is not highest point in system. One technique I've found to work much, much better is to place caliper as high as possible. This puts bleeder-screw higher than MC and you won't be fighting bubbles. They'll move in same direction as fluid and you can take your time. Another technique that works is vacuum-bleeder. Pulls fluid in one direction with no reciprocal motion of MC needed. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

Do you mean pedal moves entire stroke of cylinder with hard stop at end? If so, it needs rebuild kit since seals aren't pushing fluid. I've also seen case where someone installed spring backwards.

Squirt PB-blaster to loosen up any corrosion in piston. Alternately push in & out. Use C-clamp to squeeze in. Then push out with pedal. Then repeat back & forth.

heh, heh... did that last weekend. Except it was dirt & sand. Switched to rears as I went off-roading! 🤣

They are around and they do work. I don't like the second or two after hitting bump dislodges them and wheel has to re-balance and reach equilibrium again.

No need to watch. First measure resistance to chassis-ground of fan power-wire. If it's not OL/infinite ohms, you've got short on that wire. Ends up drawing more power than just fan when termo-switch closes.

No need to swiss-cheese, just have open-space at ends to expose internal volume. The caps on yours is so spacer actually stops spring instead of dropping into centre and doing nothing (because pipe chosen was too small in diameter). Factory config uses wide washer in that place. Spacers don't do anything but provide a stop for spring. Lower the stop (longer spacer) the more preload spring has and this lifts front-end. Shorter spacer lets spring relax more and has less preload and lowers front-end. For example, factory spacer and spring on top of this photo. Stiffer upgrade spring on bottom has thicker and fewer coils, resulting in shorter overall length. Just need to keep overall total length same since fork is still same length. So make custom PVC spacer to result in exact same total length as stock. Softer springs have more coils and are longer. So to fit them, you need shorter spacer to give more room for spring with same overall length as stock. Basically going in opposite direction as above.

I've had good luck with Totally Awesome multipurpose cleaner. Works great in steam-cleaner for carpeting. Great on grime underneath auto-bumper. Dilute according to instructions, 1:10 or some such. Whatever you do, DO NOT use Simple Green on aluminium! It will dissolve it!!! Also damages steel too, discovered over 20-yrs ago by cyclists who soaked their chains in it for cleaning. Forbidden by military for aircraft. At least one Apache helicopter's crash was directly cause by stuff, resulting in it being banned.

Is it just because we've got such old bikes and Honda's not making any money on selling out-of-print manuals anyway? That's how we're able to host these PDFs without legal ramifications???