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eyrwbvfr

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Everything posted by eyrwbvfr

  1. eyrwbvfr
    I removed these from my bike ahead of selling it. $125 shipped.
  2. eyrwbvfr
    Now I want to paint my VFR800!
  3. eyrwbvfr
    Awesome! Glad it was figured out! Thanks to Grum and his suspicion of the clutch bumps! First time I heard of it. Good info to keep in mind now. Weird issue on the clutch tho. Especially if you see the clutch plates separate. Only taking it all apart will the mystery be solved.
  4. eyrwbvfr
    I stand corrected. It has reverse hooks on the rear part of the front section. Still, it is secure enough to not slide back as long as the cowl is mounted, which rests on part of the seat.
  5. eyrwbvfr
    Actually, the seat is made to be used without the rear seat. It is even advertised on their site. The front is bolted down in the rear. The rear section has tangs that go under the front seat then locks in place by the normal locking tab. I use mine without the rear section but with the cowl. But it is not easily accessible since I also use a Givi Rack. Without the Givi rack, you can use either bolts or quick releases to remove the cowl.
  6. eyrwbvfr
    For compression test, get a tester with different fittings for spark plug threads. If you never witnessed it running, then anything is suspect. Any engine timing light will work. Bad thing about timing (just hit me) is you need to reference cylinder 1! The inductive clamp goes on the #1 plug lead.
  7. eyrwbvfr
    If you are lucky, someone on Craigslist might offload their 40 lb vintage Tektronix. For a multimeter, look for a Fluke.
  8. eyrwbvfr
    I good multimeter will show pulses in frequency mode (hz). As long as there is a signal, the details don't matter. Unless we are now chasing a timing problem. The fact that its doesn't start eludes to that or compression. It should run on 3 cylinders, if #1 spark is only issue. Doug, have you checked timing and compression?
  9. eyrwbvfr
    Do you still feel concerned about the next ICM being damaged? If you can still perform the 1<>3 wire swap, that means the coil should not be shorting out the ICM #1 spark output. Grum, are you saying if one edge of the 11 clutch protrusions is bad, it won't trigger the pulse generators? It seems that those protrusions only affect timing and not the whether the trigger works or not. Does a clean edge make a sharper rise time? I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check. Every time I was stumped about anything on my bike, it ALWAYS turned out to be the one thing I didn't check.
  10. eyrwbvfr
    Hi there Doug. Just read all thru this thread and maybe I can help. Have you determined if the ICM output for spark #1 is bad? The pulse generators should be OK since it triggers in pairs. A bad pulser would/should not fire both 1 and 3, not just 1. You swapped outputs from ICM 3 to plug 1 and it worked? Then 3 did not? Seems failure follows the ICM. Someone clarify if I'm wrong. Yes, it's hard to remotely troubleshoot. I was going to say check grounds but that should affect it all. Jumping in here late and following it was a bit confusing. Sorry but maybe, you can summarize once more.
  11. eyrwbvfr
    The bracket is designed for both p32 and p34 calipers with axial ports. See previous posts for attached drawings and applications.
  12. eyrwbvfr
    Yes, the caliper has been moved inboard to avoid any trimming in the latest version. The adapter fits both 34c and 32g. I only Dremeled mine because I'm still running my first prototype with a 32f caliper.
  13. eyrwbvfr
    Yes. PM for payment info.
  14. eyrwbvfr
    2nd part done and ready to ship!
  15. eyrwbvfr
    First part is done. I've made a few adjustments and I'll make the second one tomorrow night.
  16. eyrwbvfr
    Adapter with 4 bolts = 1.6 oz. P34 caliper with pads = 10.9 oz. Total = 12.5 oz. I will have time this week to machine the first two parts for P34 calipers. New stainless bolt kits ordered as well. Stay tuned.
  17. eyrwbvfr
    I can weigh the new calipers and bracket if someone else can weigh the OEM caliper. Remember, there are other items removed if de-linking the brakes (extra lines, hard lines, joints, etc). Also, someone else will have to comment about 6 gen fitment. I don't know. Like I said before, I can simply send you a 3D printed part for you to check fitment. But then you would need a caliper or at least borrow one.
  18. eyrwbvfr
    This makes two. Thanks Tirso! 1. @Dangeruss - P32g. Dep rcvd. 2. @RVFR - 3. @Tirso - P34c. Dep rcvd. 4. @Slo1 -
  19. eyrwbvfr
    Awesome! Thanks! 1. @Dangeruss - P32g. Dep rcvd. 2. @RVFR - 3. @Tirso - P34c. 4. @Slo1 -
  20. eyrwbvfr
    Thanks for those drawings! It confirms my findings with the 3D parts. So, it still means two different adapters. No difference to me since I machine them one at a time anyway. I feel this is a good time to see if I can get deposits before making chips fly. I will double check fittings since I do have both calipers. Keep in mind, these calipers are designed for a different rotor and we (as in me) are fitting either caliper to fit a common rotor by best fit. The caliper is over-sized for the rotor or another way is the rotor is undersized for the caliper. For rear braking duties, I feel it is more than adequate. If you don't have a caliper already, the ideal caliper is the P34C or the P32G. Both are dimensionally the same, using the same pads, more clearance and easier routing with axial ports with just different pistons. Let's move forward with this as weekends are getting tied up with other projects and summer is nearing it's end. For now, the only person on the list I know of their caliper is: 1. @Dangeruss 2. @RVFR 3. @Tirso - P34c. 4. @Slo1 Now, if you want to send me a $50 deposit, send a friends payment to eyhonda@yahoo.com. Eric
  21. eyrwbvfr
    For the people interested in this adapter, please state which caliper you have or intend to get. It's looking like a version for each is needed. I made the change to move it inboard and it was more involved than first envisioned. I have a few hours into the redesign now. The P34 looks to be made for a different size diameter rotor, maybe. Just eyeballing it. But designing to the P34, then fitting the P32 doesn't work. Then designing to the P32, the P34 is off. There are enough small differences that two adapters are needed. One for each caliper.
  22. eyrwbvfr
    Thanks! I'd like to get everyone's vote on this change. I'm OK with it even though I already trimmed my pads. They are close to being replaced anyway. It's only a few clicks to make the change.
  23. eyrwbvfr
    Perfect example of the version to AVOID! I had this version and the bleeder completely crashes the spokes. Lucky for me my Hawk had the current correct version and I just swapped calipers. As an update, the design now clears both P32 and the P34! The first pic is the P34 (from Tirso) and 2nd pic is my black P32. The 3D printed part was ver 1.5 and it just kisses the pads with a couple thou of clearance. For the current ver 2, I just pushed the face out by another .040" (1mm).
  24. eyrwbvfr
    Tirso is sending me a P34 caliper to design around to. This version will clear both. The P34 will have a 50mm wide pad opposed to the P32 40mm pad. As noted by someone else, please consider sizing the master to match. Of course, greater braking is afforded by the P34.
  25. eyrwbvfr
    No worries! It's all good info and gives us options.
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