kaldek

He did, and he reports it as being an excellent solution. Personally I think it shouldn't be necessary, Dynojet should be able to take decel into account software side. Failing that it is a minor annoyance really, and in the long run for me it will be a toss up between the effort required to fix using a vacuum switch and the frustration it causes. It also stops you from having two distinct maps, does it not? If you bond the switch to controlling the autotune, then it's not available for map selection. I noticed my PCV eating a lot of memory just with a map-by-gear without Autotune enabled. What percentage is consumed when map-by-gear *and* autotune is enabled I wonder?

So, what target AFR values did you use? 13.2 across the whole range? Did you just take Cozye's PCIII map, convert it to a PCV map, enable Autotune and leave the stock AFR values? Whoops, I found what you did: So that was good enough, eh? Hmmm. I still think a dyno tune which finds the best AFR for performance on a particular bike would be best. Can you please post your map file for me to download and have a look at?

Just to avoid any Fuel Injection (FI) light warnings. The service manual doesn't *have* a code for "faulty PAIR solenoid" though, so arguably you could disconnect it and have no errors on your FI system. I'll be blocking my PAIR valves off with Toro's PAIR block-off plates in a couple of weeks, but I'll probably still leave the solenoid connected to avoid any electrical gremlins.

Ask and you shall receive! Beeewwwdeeeful! But smudge that Beemer out of the pics will you? It's spoiling the view!

This shows the simple and easily reversible "marble method" for disabling your PAIR valves. Please note that disabling your PAIR valves is not a performance modification, but is a good change to make when you have a Powercommander (and particularly an Autotune module) to get the best fuel mixture dialled in. At this point, I will try and sell you Toro's PAIR block-off plates which I also have on order. These are a much better permanent solution and any money to Toro is a good thing because the bloke deserves it! Anyway without any further ado, let's get started. First, you need to get your seat off. I don't need to explain how to do that, but note that the tank cannot be lifted if the seat has not been removed. Next, lift up the tank: Remove the two 8mm bolts which secure the tank. Once the tank bolts have been removed, lift up the tank and replace one of the bolts, like so: Screw the bolt down a bit, then spin the washer so it seats against the frame. We're going to use this bolt which is nicely sticking out of the frame as a means of securely holding up the tank. I have used some socket wrench extenders, with the hollow end sitting over the bolt head, and the solid end pushing up under the tank, like so: Nice and secure! Now we need to remove the UPPER air hose (it's the short one) from the rear-left of the airbox. This hose connects directly to the airbox and to the PAIR solenoid. Remove the UPPER hose by loosening the clamps with your fingers and moving them down the hose. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to wiggle the hose a bit to get it off. Once it's been removed, your airbox should look like this: Airbox without PAIR hose. The next thing we need, is a bag of these: Three dollar bag of assorted marbles! Find a marble which is a nice tight fit in the hose but can be pushed with some effort. Note that it doesn't need to be the world's tightest fit - these are not vacuum hoses, just low pressure fresh-air hoses to draw air from the airbox into the exhaust. Don't be concerned about the marble being sucked into your engine! Firstly, there is very little if any air pressure going through these hoses, and secondly the marble will head towards the solenoid rather than the airbox, if at all! SPECIAL NOTE: Feel free to test the marble by sucking on the hose. If you can successfully suck the marble out of the hose, put your tools down and go for a job interview in the porn industry. :pinocchio: Push the marble into the hose, past where the clamps and hose connectors would reach to. It's best to push your marble into the end of the hose which is straightest, so you're not trying to shove the marble round corners. Marble goes in straightest end. After this, you can just slip the hose back on, put the clamps back in their original positions, and secure the tank again. However we now need to adjust the idle speed, as the ECU holds the PAIR valves open during idling, which affects the airflow through the airbox and exhaust. Disabling the PAIR system causes the fuel mixture at idle to change and therefore the idle speed will drop, so we need to bring it back up. Start the bike and let the engine warm up. If it won't hold an idle already, skip right ahead and perform the following step with the engine cold and also once it's hot. We're now going to adjust the idle speed. Here's where the idle adjuster is on the right-hand side of the bike just behind the fairing. Well hidden idle adjuster! Turn the idle adjuster clockwise to increase the idle speed. Most likely it will be really hard to turn with your fingers, so use some needle-nose pliers if you like: Be gentle and make small adjustments! A quarter turn can be a hundred rpm! Once your engine is hot, and your idle has been set to approximately 1,200 rpm, you're ready to roll!

Saves power? Doesn't that power get absorbed by the motor yet again driving the stator to power the electric water pump? I could see if that microcontroller turned it off and on by demand? Kinda; the stator generates power all the time whether it's used or not. If not used, it gets dumped as heat by the Regulator. If your stator is powerful enough to run an electric water pump, I'd imagine it's doing nothing more than helping avoid generating waste heat. In short, I'm pretty sure the mechanical effort to turn the stator doesn't increase with the power being asked of it. The energy drain from the electric water pump at idle would probably be the biggest problem. Possibly the voltage could drop so low that the bike stalled. Oddly enough, switching off the pump here would be a bad thing because sitting at the lights on a hot day is when you really really need your water pump to be cranking! Interesting video on electric pumps here:

Amen brother - that's happened to me twice. The second time I watched the guy doing it as he put the tire back on the rim and said "uhhh, mate...it's backwards". The response is always the same - "sorry mate I'm used to doing BMW wheels". Damn them and their paralever-on-the-other-wise wheels!

Good lord, the trail on that MTB front end is nuts!!!