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Everything posted by kaldek
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I dun sumpin bad... induced a short somewhere in electrical system
kaldek replied to angst's topic in Electrical
I've spent a fair bit of time wandering around the VFR wiring system (I re-wired a USA ECU and wiring harness into an Aussie bike's controls). Basically, you've picked probably the most complex accessories circuit on the bike to mess with. By trying to wire your 2-wire globes into the 3-wire system used for indicating and running lights, you have created all sorts of weird and wacky ways for the electrons to fly around the circuit. Here's the short summary. Without adding a bunch of diodes, you cannot use your 2-wire globe to act like a 3-wire globe without causing all the problems you have just experienced. If you look closely at a 2006 (and newer) VFR wiring diagram, you will notice they went back to using 2-wire globes in the indicators even when the bike still has running lights. How did they do this? With diodes, that's how. This is why a 2006+ model can use the 2-wire indicator stalks and still have it work on those bikes. You need to start by remove all the splices. Next, wire up the positive line from the indicator stalks to the relevant positive wire of the indicator/flasher circuit. I recommend wiring the grounds directly to the frame of the bike (not the subframe where the headlight bolts to - but the actual frame). There are some good locations to bolt to up the front; you'll find them. As for your short circuit, it could well be in the globes on the stalks. A great test for short circuit tracing is to remove the globes from the stalks. If the fuse doesn't blow, you know it's the globes that are faulty and not the wiring. I've seen it plenty of times on cars - the globes internally short circuit themselves somehow. Otherwise it could be the wiring in the stalks or the way you have spliced in the grounds. P.S. Anyone with decent auto electrical knowledge could knock up a diode system which would let the stalks work as they would on a 2006+ model. You just need the right parts and some knowledge of how three-pin diodes work.- 11 replies
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- electric
- turn signal
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Rotors don't wear out, so no need to replace. Outer diameter of original 2002 model stator is 107mm. Outer diameter of upgraded stator is 115mm. I have one of each in my garage just lyin' around.
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Yup: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/60987-completedcustom-hid-conversion-kit/
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LOL. When I first saw this post I thought "the guy is asking for advice on how to carry his assault rifle around on the bike?"
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Normally it's me getting into arguments, but this time I'll just
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Automotive thermostat replacement for VFR800???
kaldek replied to Veefer800Canuck's topic in Maintenance Questions
Someone did manage this. They had to grind it down some to make it fit but it worked. The trick is to buy a unit with a "jiggler" which is the little pin which rattles around on the side. It also needs to be a unit with the smaller plate on the end as this is what switches the cooling system from radiator bypass circulation to circulation including the radiator. -
If the bikes are both USA-spec (non HISS) and there were no major hardware revisions between 2010 and 2010, it should just plug in and go. For example it's possible to do a straight ECU swap between any USA model VFR800s in the year ranges of 2006-2010. You can also do the same with bikes 2002-2005, but you can't put a 2006 ECU in a 2005 bike without a wiring harness swap.
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Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
Went to replace the left-front caliper today, but it's a bigger job than expected as you also need to replace one of the brake hoses due to a difference in length. Means a tad more brake bleeding, as the hose has to be disconnected from the steel lines up at the headstock. A job for a rainy day! -
You're right, they've updated the part code (again!). It's now 31100-MCW-325, but has increased in price by $100!
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Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
Well after a good long ride today I have to say these 2006 calipers are great. Good feel, bite, and power. No complaints! -
Has anyone fixed the grabby clutch for sure?
kaldek replied to thenewwazoo's topic in Fifth Generation VFR's
Yeah I do. I fitted the clutch slave cylinder from the 2006 wreck I bought to my bike and the problem has gone away. I knew my slave cylinder was a bit shagged but when I fitted my 2002 slave cylinder to the 2006 motor initially it was absolutely rotten. So in my case the problem appears to have been related to a dodgy sticking slave cylinder. -
You cannot just disconnect the wires because the PAIR system is enabled by default when there is NO power applied. Only when power is applied does PAIR shut off (it closes a valve). PAIR is always active except when the engine goes into closed loop mode (i.e. the O2 sensors trim the fuel), which is not very often. Sticking a marble in the hose that comes from the airbox and goes to the PAIR valve solenoid will do the same thing as the PAIR block off plates. You need to raise the idle speed as well, and potentially adjust the fast idle wax unit as this controls cold engine idle speed. Both are affected when PAIR gets blocked off.
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Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
Thanks mate, I removed the copper grease. You're right, it's apparently good for threads and backing plates but not for sliders. While there I replaced the boots as apparently copper grease causes the rubber to swell. I used red brake grease to replace it as it's all I had handy and it's 9pm now. -
Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
I lubed the new caliper's slider pins with coppaslip grease, just in case! I am surprised about how this happened, but maybe the pad spring needed to be replaced long ago and it moved so much over time that it caused the bracket to wear. I did fit a new disk a few months ago, which turned out to be warped, and also my pads were worn down to the backing plate when I removed the disk. So I had a combination of warped disk and worn pads in there. Maybe the wear occurred really suddenly? I guess if a few other high mileage owners (Baileyrock?) check theirs out we'll know if it's a common thing. -
Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
OK here's the vid. -
Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
Technically yes. Part number 06453-MBG-405 (non-ABS bike). Could be different part if the bike is ABS. If you replaced that part you'd be good to go. -
Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
Sure mate, video coming soon that shows this. -
Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
Here are the pics of how bad the 2002 caliper with 150,000KM on it was. I'm uploading a video of it to YouTube tonight as well. If your 2002-2005 VFR is high mileage, I'd be taking a very close look at your calipers. -
Dangerously worn front brake caliper (yes, caliper)
kaldek replied to kaldek's topic in Sixth Generation VFR's
OK caliper has been changed. Even the brake pads are different on the '06+ bikes! Thank god I had just ordered some from Jake Wilson and ordered the "wrong" ones, which actually fit the '06 calipers! -
Hey guys, lately my right-front caliper was making a grinding noise when I wheeled the bike around the garage. I found the source of the noise and it's not good. Basically the slot where the pad retaining clip sits has been worn out and is rounded! The pad retaining clip does not sit tightly anymore and it rides up to the point where it hits the edge of the disk. Given enough time, what's likely to happen is the pads will come flying out of the caliper! I suggest anyone with a high mileage sixth-gen check their calipers to see if the cutout where the little pad retaining spring sits is rounded. If so, it's time for a new caliper! I'm going for a ride tomorrow so I think I may need to commit some time to replacing the caliper right now. Luckily I have a caliper from a 2006 VFR just sitting around in my garage. Also during my investigation I discovered that the 2002-2005 caliper is WAY different to the 2006+ caliper. The 2006 model caliper is much more beefy and its mounting point makes it sit differently against the disk. The left-front brake caliper is also different, but the rear caliper assembly is the same from 2002 onwards. Anyone else already know this?
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Yeah same procedure for all HISS bikes.
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Not to worry mate, I have some transponder chips spare. Do you want me to send you one? All you have to do is pop the chip in the key behind the plastic Honda logo and you're all done and ready for programming. $10 and it's yours! Here's my video on programming the new keys too:
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One of the problems here is that people class all Lithium batteries the same. Lithium Polymer (LiPo) is just not suitable for vehicles and wears out fast. This is what laptops/iPods/iPads/Cameras use. They also tend to suffer from thermal runaway and "explode" easily. Lithium Ferrite (LiFe) however is much more stable but has lower energy density than LiPo. Also some people are building LiFe batteries for bikes out of power tool cells, which can mean the battery design doesn't work well in the heat and vibration environment of the bike. Ergo, they fail and then all LiFe batteries get lumped into the "these are crap" category. Companies like Shorai are the guys doing it right.
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I've got too much exposure to Lithium battery technology (LiPo and LiFe) to agree with all these people saying how their battery is the problem. I'm willing to hang my hat on the fact that these people either have overcharging problems (15+ volts) or undercharging problems. Overcharging in particular damages the Lithium battery chemistry.
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To put it mildly these guys are total dicks. "Race battery" my ass. It's a starter battery, ALL vehicle batteries are starter batteries and are not meant to ever provide power except during starting. Having said that, LiFe technology is much better at being asked to deep cycle than a lead acid starter battery is. You can discharge an LiFe battery at 150 amps till its flat or 10 amps until it's flat all day long and it will hold output voltage until discharged way better than lead acid technology can.