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Hi Kyle. Thats Great news glad the expense of a replacement ECM was worth it. All the testing done to come to the conclusion the ECM was faulty was also worth it as 99% of the time the ECM is fine, it's just everthing hanging off the ECM that is at fault, ECMs are increadibly reliable given their complexity, you want to be as sure as possible that your ECM is in that 1% category before outlaying the big bucks for a replacement. Good Luck with the project. Cheers.

Many thanks Terry. I was hoping you'd chime in to confirm this. Not having a 5gen I had a little doubt, but was fairly confident the hose connections were simply storage and blocked off. Cheers

No probs Eric. I was a little confused myself until realizing the 1200 has the battery face up.

Aren't the hoses already blocked off when they are attached to the airbox? I thought that the attachment point for the synch hoses at the airbox is simply to store them with the ends blocked? I'm sure there is no passageway that they are plugged into! Hey Vlad. Just reading this whole thread again and noticed there is nothing mentioned of your Air Filter. What is the status of it, how old, how clean? Any doubts Replace it, dirty or poor air flow will cause poor power delivery and possibly rich fueling.

That's an interesting one Thumbs, appears that with a couple of independent tests done it only achieved 93ron, apparently without the Ethanol. Sounds like Esso doesn't change the formulation to compensate for the absence of Ethanol. Customers needing say at least 95ron or higher for a high performance vehicle are being mislead at the risk of poor performance or possible engine damage! Also interesting in the same test Shell V-Power rated at 99ron achieved 101ron and according to the UK requirements may have up to 5% Ethanol. Fortunately, it won't worry a VFR800 it's happy on 91ron. I'd still avoid Ethanol if it's possible, as always YMMV.

Hi Eric. I don't have the 1200 but I know a YTZ14S is correct for that bike. See attached from the Service Manual and Owners Book. The Service and Owners Manual show the Positive to the Left if you were to stand the battery upright and view it from the front. The battery lies on it's Back, Face Up, with terminals towards the fuse box. The standard YTZ14S is the correct terminal polarity. You definitely Don't want Negative on the Left when viewed Front On!

Do you have the 4 hoses attached the airfilter housing, OR the five way junction type? Hoses 1 to 4 must be effectively blocked off while doing SV Synch. Either all connected to a 4 column vac gauge. Or if doing 1 at a time the other 3 must be blocked off, which would be an issue if you have the five way junction type. - SV's are for base idle, cold idle and small throttle opening. The greater the butterflies open the less the influence of SV's - Compression checks for number 2 maybe? Body to intake rubber boot leaking or damaged maybe? - TPS cannot effect only one cylinder. - Not sure if a 6gen MAP Sensor is the same as the 5th. But as mentioned, the 5gen MAP and BARO sensors are the same part numbers and can be swapped for fault finding. - The 5gen throttle body is a birds nest of vacuum hoses, make sure all the hoses are in good condition, connected and no cracks or damage. - Have you read the Technical Features section of the Service Manual? Good explanations of the EFI system and sensors. Sorry I can't offer anything else, have never owned a 5gen.

Here's another good graphic of the PAIR Valve and the location of the 2P connector you'll need to unplug. - Note by unplugging it you won't force a DTC, so No Fi Fault light indication for it.

Hi Kyle. Good follow up. Voltage measurements confirm, you do NOT have the Pink Security ECM enable wire. After all the extensive testing, you have no choice but to replace the ECM. Hope you're able to find a Fully Serviceable ECM from somewhere! Good Luck hope it all goes well. Let's know how you get on.

Hi Tom. "is it the larger grey at the rear of the air box or the smaller whiter connector that's also connected to the grey connector?" ?????? PAIR Valve - See the Green Arrow. Follow its wire to a 2P connector which you should be able to unplug. Note that the wire colours is also a match for the PAIR Valve a Green and an Orange, as per your picture, and wiring diagram!

Are you sure that's a Pink wire? Not a solid Red wire? I don't think it's the Pink wire and your Ignition Switch configuration is like the attached drawing. Grab your meter and probe that Pink looking Red wire see if it has 12v on it with Ignition to OFF. If it has, then it's the hot 12v from Main Fuse A 30amp. "the black/brown wire has nothing at switch on with kill switch on." And you had the Red meter lead on battery Positive while measuring the Black/brown wire, Yes? That be the case then Yes, all appears to point to your ECM being dead.

Hi Tom. Unplug the PAIR Solenoid electrical connector located at the rear of the airbox housing. Does the popping stop? Also, make sure its air hose is fitted to the rear of the airbox. With regards to fuel economy. What fuel are you using? Avoid Ethanol blended fuel if you can, you will get less tank range if you use Ethanol fuels, appart from its other bad effects!

?? Are you referring to the Green/Orange and the Light Green wires of the TPS? You've already confirmed the Green/Orange is good to the ECM and all Grounds are good. You've stated the Light Green wire has good continuity to the ECM. Being the TPS Signal to the ECM it shouldn't have continuity to the negative terminal. Are you probing the Light Green TPS to either of the other two and seeing resistance changes as you open and close the throttle, do this with theTPS plug disconnected and probing the terminals on the TPS not the wire harness? If the resistance was so bad you would probably have a active fault code. MAP sensor is a Voltage device, a pressure to voltage transducer! Refer Service Manual for MAP checks. Note - MAP and BARO are the same part numbers and can be swapped over for fault finding. Do you have a MAP fault code? Have you removed number 2 SV and tried cleaning with compressed air? Refer Service Manual. Cylinder 2 also feeds vacuum to the Secondary Air Intake system (flapper valve) if the system has been disabled make sure the vac hose for this is blocked off. 3 and 4 provide vacuum to the FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator. Make sure the FPR has no fuel leakage into the vacuum hose and no dripping fuel from the FPR vacuum connection any fuel leak = ruptured diaphragm. Closely inspect all vacuum hoses for cracks or damage and properly connected. Make sure the throttle body boots are tight not cracked or leaky. Good Luck

Yep, nice quiet cams! Oops, did I say something wrong??

Amazing, Interesting and clever work you've done. Engine sounds very healthy in the video. Just like Duc2V4, interested in knowing more about disabling VTEC. Does the Power Comander V allow remapping/fueling for continuous 4 valve ops? And what about at the 6800rpm zone which would normally be the 4 valve transition rpm, can you modify that zone?

6. Ignition Switch. No need to remove at this stage. Go to the 4P connector for it and see if it has the Pink wire. "7. curiously i do not get 12v at FCR plug at ignition on.. i had checked it before and swore i had 11v continuously but i just double checked and i had MV" Need to be very clear about this statement!..Are you saying you are Not measuring 12v on the Black/White wires of the FCR at switch On? OR, you don't measure 12v on the Brown/Black wire with respect to Battery positive for 2 to 3sec at switch On? See attached. If you don't have the Pink Wire on the Ignition Switch, and you do have 12v on the Black/White wires, and not seeing the 12v for the 2 to 3secs as per above, then.......... After all that's been checked, can only suspect the ECM is toast!

Starter valve synch for 5gen. 1 = Master. 2 = Match to 1. 3 = 20mmHg MORE than 1. 4 = 10mmHg MORE than 1. TPS, Baro and MAP have a 5v Vcc voltage on the Pink wire check this voltage is good and the same value at these sensors. See attached drawing. TPS has a Signal Ground through the ECM on the Green/Orange wire. Confirm all ECM Grounds B1 Green wire, A9 and A20 Green/Pink wires have good continuity back to the Battery Negative terminal. TPS Signal to ECM is a Light Green wire Confirm Continuity of all three wires back to the ECM. Run the TPS checks in the Service Manual after doing the above basic checks. Assume you have the Service Manual and accurate wiring diagram of your bike..? - "A resistance measurement between the negative pole of the battery and the engine block showed approximately 200 milliohms"...???? Do you have a special Low Ohm Reading instrument? Shorting your meter leads together might give .2 of an ohm (200 milliohms). Subtract meter lead resistance from your reading. Sounds like you have good main Ground bonding to the engine. - "1. Initial Symptom: - The engine began to exhibit hesitation and jerky movements while maintaining a steady throttle position." Spark Plugs or dirty Fuel Filter, water condensation in the tank, or bad fuel can cause this. - "Cylinder number 2 could not be synchronized; adjusting the screw only decreased the vacuum, and completely unscrewing it did not increase the vacuum beyond 1.8 cmHg. " Burnt valve maybe, perhaps a compression test might be needed?

No don't think so, its size doesn't match the OEM YTZ12S, terminal height is 35mm taller than the OEM and has a lower CCA rating of 200amps. Best to go with a YTZ14S, CCA of 230amps AGM battery, and it's the same physical size as the YTZ12S. "Clearing Old Stock" might not be the best way to go when it comes to batteries!

To our New Zealand and Aussie members. The celebration of ANZAC day is special in our hearts as we celebrate, honour, and remember those who gave their lives for the freedoms we have. Lest We Forget.

78

No doesn't need "resetting". Info... 1. With the Sidestand down Ignition to On, Kill switch to RUN any active fault code will be displayed. 2. When riding, if an active fault is detected, your Fi will illuminate full On but will not flash a code (Honda logic is not to have distracting flashing lights while riding). Only displayed as per 1. 3. Resetting you refer to is the method of erasing historical stored codes. These could be codes like the MAP or IAT sensors disconnected during the SV synch or genuine past stored faults that have since been rectified.

Just my two cents worth, I hope others with more experience in this area might chime in. Interesting question. SV synch is fundamental to good even idle, and smoothness in the small throttle opening zone, a mechanical setting, adjusted at normal operating temp, without the influence of the fast idle Wax Unit, and butterflies closed. Stands to reason this should be carried out first along with correct warm idle adjustment of 1200rpm. Assuming badly balanced SV's, and especially during the cold start enrichment phase, a slight touch of the throttle opening and the added air might cause a stall. I know of a similar effect (possibly in both hot and cold modes) on a 5gen. a faulty signal from the TPS at low throttle was measured, but not bad enough to force an Fi DTC. The whole throttle body was replaced and problem solved. All warm engine ops are normal according to Shane the OP. Perhaps signals from MAP and/or ECT are marginal at cold temps and might need checking. Watching the Wax unit action on the Starter Valves, and if the movement is smooth and gradual from cold fast idle to the warm Idle, you can then discount the Wax Unit causing any problems.

Haha yep, vented relief I hope, horrible that blocked breather feelin, just gotta get that gas out!

Great news Duc. Speedy recovery. I fully understand the frustration from post operative blues of not being able to ride for lengthy periods. Nice partnership with your mate, rider training in exchange for bike help. I find it one of the joys of motorcycling, always learning and refining technique and smoothness, whether or not I achieve my goal is debatable! Great motorcycle porn shots! Guess you'd never want a faulty "trigger finger" with a six shooter in your hand! Take care and best regards.

Oh dear! I feel your pain, sounds like you've done a lot of guessing and not much measuring, at least you have some good spares! Such a shame you tossed the Ignition Switch. As far as I know that zener diode security function wasn't on Australian bikes. Either our American friends might be able to advise on a replacement, Or a bit of clever wiring to the standard three wire switch adding the appropriate 3.9v zener diode to the Pink wire and other end to the Red/black IG 12v Switched wire(zener diode polarity needs to be correct). As mentioned you need to get 9v on the Pink wire to enable the ECM. See attached. Get some advice from a good Technician on the best way to do this if you are unsure. The symptoms for this device Not working is - Fi Light fully On, and No Fuel Pump prime. Good luck.