Bassie

The 2 tubes that goto the cylinders are to give air under the cover, you should not block those, but they have to be good. So if they leak you better replace them, as it could lead to dirt in your oil. As for the burning of leftovers, that is a nice story to hide their CO2 real emission. It also messes with your CO2 sensor making the computer believe the mixture isn't right, won't show with the standard exhaust but does when you have an after market. Sorry to say, but it does nothing but fool the CO2 sniffers.

The reed tubes normally feed the exhaust with extra air, it simply get sucked in there, this to fool sniffers of the CO2-maffia that the bike is cleaner then it really is. And it's coming from the airbox via the pairing-valve. In theory if the pairing-vavle is open and the tubes are leaking (not airtight) you could suck dirty air into the air intake of the cylinders. That would be bad as it bypasses the air-filter. I suggest you remove the paring-valve and the 3 tubes that connect to it, and simply block the connection at the airbox. As you do use blocking plates, there is no need to keep the system installed and can be removed in total.

Little question, did you remove valve-pairing and flapper? In short, did you remove the CO2-maffia rubbish that kills the real handling of the bike? As idle and low speed problems are typical a problem of Valve-pairing-system (that you want to remove/kill) and Flapper (that you also want to kill). When you do that, you end up with a new bike that rides a 1000x times better then stock. And fun part, it costs only 5 cents to do it in a screw (flapper vacume-tube close) and 5 cents pairing (marbles to block it.) This crap is on all new bikes, not just the VFR's. Remove the CO2 maffia crap and it runs far better then anything you tried so far

I'm with you, I love the engine-breake too, won't trade it for any other bike because of that. And my wife keeps shouting: You brake far too late to be normal!

I would connect it to the ignition-switch and not the battery, then you don't have to worry about the idle-draw.

I left my gps connected by mistake and the next day the battery was flat. Don't connect this stuff to the battery but do it via the contact-switch. A bike battery is not as powerfull as a car battery. Verstuurd van mijn GT-S5570 met Tapatalk