Mohawk

If you replace the ducati carrier with an Afam, JT or Renthal 5 bobbin Quick Change carrier, then Afam do a 520 45 tooth light weight steel sprocket for the 916, which I have paired with a 16T Yamaha R1 (15-16) 520 Rental light weight sprocket (309V-520-16P). They use the same output shaft splines as VFR800 !  Who knew 🤔  They may well do same for 6 bobbin carriers for 848/1098/1099 panigale etc 

Which is which ? 🤔

Cleared the garage around it so I could get to it. Then refitted a charged battery. Wheeled it out & it fired up first press of the starter. I topped up the tyre pressures, tested everything still works & booked it in for an MoT on Tuesday morning 👍

What you are selling your baby ? 
Castrol for sure, but if you have both sets of panels, then both 👍

I ended up with a similar pig tail for my MTB wideband O2 sensor too ! 👍

16 hours ago, Cogswell said:

Does anyone know if it's possible to transpose from a Power Commander map and in to a Rapid Bike one?  Maybe I can explain a bit better . . .

 

Let's say for example, one has a developed PC III or PC V map that's been custom designed (which I do).   There are obviously various trims at each RPM / throttle position cell in the PC's table.  Is it possible to transpose (such as in music) those trims over to a Rapid Bike table in order to get a baseline map that's "pretty close" to start with so that the RB can then fine tune using the MTB and a wideband O2 sensor? 

Anyone done this or know how?  Are there any tutorials either witten or maybe youtube videos on that topic? 

 

 

Yes, they both operate on a % duty cycle change value. So +X value in one is similar to the other. 

Well RB can claim whatever they like. I had my 5th gen running PC3 with custom dyno tune before RB install. 
 

I ran it for 500 miles on narrow band and it was nowhere near as good as the custom tune. So I bought a wideband AFR sensor & fitted that to the dash temporarily. I used it to modify the cells where it was out of whack. It got much better very quickly. Would have been better if I'd had a logger. 
 

Took it for a dyno run & it was still off a bit. Fitted an MTB & it was much better, next dyno run was much better. 
 

YMMV

The problem with the lambda sensor tuning is its fixed for 14.7 AFR lean running state. It only sends rich or lean not actual AFR values. Thus it can correct areas that are rich or lean but not set a specific target AFR you may desire. 
 

The wideband sensor MTB allows you to set a target AFR & it will auto tune to that target. 

Racebolt UK do a couple of full Ti engine bolt kits. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VFR800-98-2009-Titanium-Socket-Cap-Engine-Bolt-Kit-/303933918551?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
 

Either the cap heads above or with hex heads drilled for lock wiring. 

There is an RBR map for a stock bike & maybe with a slipon. Other than that you need a dyno a wideband logger or an MTB. 

Bicycle lights are getting way to bright with the LED revolution. Some of them could do with a hi/low beam switch. I've been blinded a few times now by bikes cycling the wrong way on cycle lanes next to the road.

On 9/17/2020 at 10:31 PM, lplplplp said:

ahhh, so stock cams? 
 

No they have been upgraded, same lift more duration. 

So HighsideNZ has a 5th gen engine in 6th gen frame, with a 74mm bigbore & all of my mods for 140hp. 
 

I have a lightweight 5th gen circa 205Kg wet, with 120hp. I'd like to do more to it, but time & money always arrive independently ☹️ I never seem to have both at the same time. 
 

Happy modding 👍

Hey Wacken, the RBR uses a variable table like the PC. And it is a % +/- add/remove duty cycle system too, same as PC So you can pop any PC map into excel & then select what you want from the PC & drop into the RBR map for the same cells. 

Oh in answer to the question, Yes. 
VFR Stanchions, VTR sliders, Traxxion Dynamic Cartridges & CBR929 callipers 👍😎

Well using 7.5wt oil is the major problem. You have a valve system that is around 20years old. Depending on mileage & fork oil changes will determine the amount of wear. 
 

They were poorly damped when new, so using 10 or 15wt oil would be a good start. Then it’s a choice of either upgrade the valves or the cartridges, or replacing the forks.

There are plenty of threads here on how to or what worked for others.

Have fun 👍

13 hours ago, BusyLittleShop said:

6 spoke Oz racing wheels have broke during the rigors of a race... inspect your 5 spoke critical junction often...

Just to qualify this particular wheel After investigation was discovered to be a hand me down from a sponsored team to the team where it broke, it was IIRC a magnesium Race wheel & had been crashed a few times & NEVER x-ray/dye checked. That’s why cheap secondhand race wheels should be avoided & magnesium ones never used on the road as there are prone Stress fractures. And on broken spoke on a marginally strong wheel is all it takes to overload the rest !

Looking good,  enjoy  & summer is nearly here 🙂

A tip for those clamp springs, get some heat shrink colour of your choice & slide over the springs. It keeps the exhaust free of marks & rust from the springs, they will rust.

Just found these whilst looking for something else. Enjoy.

Great shot on the bridge. Good use of the lockdown 👍 

I consider bike riding to be essential & thus my riding is in compliance with the UK gov advice. 
 

Plus I’ve had the virus, so consider myself immune for a bit. 

You don’t need the timing marks for valve measurement. Just look at the cam lobes, when the tip is opposite the bucket, you can measure the gap.

If you need TDC for cam removal/install then a piece of alloy rod or a long screw driver down the plug hole will give you TDC indication. If you use the paint method as advised by Honda, you can count teeth from the head face to the painted teeth ends. 
 

There is always a way if you put some thought into it 👍

3 hours ago, raYzerman said:

Has anyone explored the straight rate spring options from RaceTech or some of the other North American suppliers like Sonic and Traxxion?  A spring upgrade is likely on my list.......

I’ve had Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 cartridges & springs in mine for 10 years. Plus a Nitrox Race shock on the rear, with the brake delink & loss of 35Kg it handles & brakes like a CBR600RR now 👍😎

I’ve been using just wide Band for years with my RBRacing module. 
The narrow band sensors are just looped together on the RRR harness. I use both the original O2 sensor feeds to power the MTB wideband sensor, you have to use both as the Wideband sensor draws to much current for one feed to supply it.

As an FYI You only need power through on stock O2 sensor feed to keep the Fi light out. Because the alameda signal is not seen the ECU defaults to a rich map. It is this map you use the RBR or PC3/5 to correct.

Have fun 👍