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Mohawk

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Posts posted by Mohawk

  1. 3 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

    @Dutchy

     

    Do you recognize this exhaust?

     

     

    VF1000 header collector.jpeg

    VF750S or F or VF500 replacement collectors possibly Motad !?

     

    I replied to the picture, but see you have a VF1000, so probably Motad if in UK/Europe 

  2. Well for a start you are comparing completely different bikes, so a lot more than tyres are involved. Like geometry, weight distribution, body positioning etc.

     

    Dunlops normally have a steeper V profile & usually a sharper turn in because of that. For a start check your tyre pressures, as soft tyres can hamper steering response making the bike slow to turn. 

    • Like 2
  3. You need to understand the loads through the part. It's what holds the swingarm & suspension parts in place & is the leverage point for all of it as well as the connection to the frame. Due to the leverage ratios it can have quite a load through it. The adjustable units would need to be doubled up IMO to be able to take the load without any worry. 

  4. Looks the same to me. Make shock longer raises rear end by changing the swingarm angle. A shorter dogbone changes the leverage ratio & may/may not dictate a change in spring rate. IIRC from the excellent Suspension Smith shorter tie bars reduces required spring rate. So if your test riders report harsher rear end, it will likely be over sprung due to the leverage change.  
    Mine is over 2" higher at the rear. Shorter links are usually only used if you want more ride height & don't have an adjustable length shock or one without enough adjustment to suit your needs. 

  5. 19 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

     

    Another possible factor is the cost of having helmets tested and approved to meet certain countries' requirements to be sold there.   That affects the price of bike accessories as well in the UK.

    Err no, no one builds helmets to different standards. They build them to the hardest one to pass if they sell globally. 

  6. Interesting titbit, I was in Japan last month for a bike tour with a friend. We went to some Tokyo bike shops & Arai & Shoei  helmets were half the price they are in the UK. So I suspect the pricing is due to importers bigging up the Japanese quality/cost ratio for pure profit.
     

    Don't get me wrong they are quality helmets, but not worth twice as much as many other good brands IMO.

  7. The VFR800's have MMC bores, not Iron liners. It has SS piston rings. So no need to ever put oil in the bores. 
     

    As for fuel, depends how long you leave it. I used to use fuel stab, but stopped a couple of years back after an accident meant I didn't use the VFR for a year. Reattached charged battery cycled fi a couple of times using kill switch then it started 2nd press of the button 👍

  8. Meh factory version is a bit of a dogs dinner. The aftermarket set is much better. But still just a posh frock for an average bike.

     

    I just discovered Toyota do a 4x4 GT Sport version of the Yaris 😳. Now that's what would sell in bike terms, not a fairing with a paint job !  
     

  9. Heated clothing & gloves is so much better than heated grips. Different ethos, grips are great for slighty cooler than you expected rides.
     

    But heated clothing is the thing for proper cold riding. I used to use it commuting on those winter dry days so no ice but very cold less than zero C temps @ 90mph I had to turn the heat down !  😳

    • Like 2
  10. You can make your own very easily. If you buy a replacement seat cover plus a couple of small or one large heat pad, then fit the pad(s) where they best fit your butt heating requirements & add the new seat cover. Add an on/off switch &/or a temperature controller & job done. I use heated under clothing which is great & can be used on any bike just add a connector for the gear.
     

    Works best with a temp controller as anything more than 2/3rds heat on my Gerbing suit is too much even at 90mph on sub-zero dry days. 

  11. I can't recall what the manual says. But this is my crib sheet kept on the inside  of my gauge box.

    IMG_8993.thumb.jpeg.dc12eac0d9feed5b41cf08576e4b1faa.jpeg

    Cylinder-1 is reference & not adjustable. Cyl-2 should be equal to Cyl-1. Cyl-4 should be -10 from reference & Cyl-3 should be -20 from reference. All figures are MM of vacuum. 
     

    When set like this on a stock or aftermarket 5th gen exhaust the engine is super smooth & revs very crisply. Make sure you have a 5th gen exhaust, as 6th gen will fit & rear headers are closer to same length so uses different vacuum settings. On 5th gen front pipes do NOT cross & #1 cylinder is the top/rear most pipe by right foot peg. 6th gen front pipes cross each other because #1 cylinder is inner/forward pipe by right foot peg, thus front pipes cross to keep the front rear cylinder pairings the same.


    Cylinders on all VFR's are 1+3 at rear & 2+4 at front, with #1 at rear left when sat on the bike. 

    • Like 1
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