bmart

I surely feel the hits on both ends now...

Can folks familiar with the 2000 suspension convey the stock valving, front and back? The springs are the right weight, but I haven't had anything valved yet. It feels...not great. 🙂

My worst bikes have all been high HP bikes. Slow or medium for me, thanks!

I agree. no thanks!

Folks tried with the mighty FJ1200 back in the day:

Quality, quality, quality. 

One of many side rigs:

It's-a Italian-a!

Surely different exhaust notes, but the engines sound like brothers to me. 

It is fun following along with your resurrection story. The heart is 5th Gen... 🙂

Any info on the crash? Do you know what happened? 

Mine change from entry to entry also. Maybe ow they're added or where they're located? I just click the text and see them. 

There's a reason many use tubing for strength. 😉

I'm also in CLT. Took a walk around the icy neighborhood this morning. Looks like we're 10+ days out from any riding!

...and the temp they were checked at. It makes a difference. 

16 minutes ago, FJ12Ryder said:

The loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.

This sounds like my skills. lol 

Pretty interesting how engine design, oil used, etc. all has such an impact. 

I bought a CB-1 in 2020 with just under 12k miles on it. It has 16k intervals but I checked it anyway. 12 out of 16 were out of spec. My prior CB-1 wasn't out of spec until 32k, when only 7 were out of spec. (Shim under bucket.)

My FJs would run about 1/2 out of spec at each 16k, mostly exhaust. 

The cars (screw type adjusters) get checked every 105k adn seem to be 6-8 out of spec out of 16 valves. 

I ride so little to what I used to do that I think I'll leave the VFR ones alone! No funny noises, smoke, or loss in power. 

10 hours ago, 3rdgenred said:

I checked my original 1990 vfr valves @ 15k. I never went back in. Now at 242,000 miles, I’m thinkin about checking them again

I heard that they go nearly forever. I've never checked any of mine on any of the 3 VFRs. 

11 hours ago, REDWING said:

all 8 valves are out of spec

Curious by how much...

Left Staintune, which I love, on the '98. Added an inexpensive (but very nice) Delkevic slip on to the '00. Both seem to work perfectly. Not too loud. I'd try the swap!

And for folks interested in putting similar trailers on their sides, companies (I dont' recall their names) do sell caster kits. I'm not sure you'd want to lift a steel one up like that, but aluminum should be easy enough. 

I had a friend wiht a Kendon for a while, but it got different reviews than yours! 🙂 I'm glad that you like it. 

Post some more pics of the trip!

So much of this is rider preference. We're always working around conditions because they're always changing from weather, temps, fuel load, tire wear, and so much more. I am a rider who is very light on controls so my bike feels loose to friends who like their "welded" feeling. I find riding their bikes a jarring experience with little room for error. 

The CB-1 is the biggest joke of them all, due to the unusual shock linkage configuration. I've owned about 7 of them and suspension guys kept telling me I need a stiffer spring. I started at the recommended 1300 and worked my way back down to where I started!

I love this pic not only because it is a super shot of me stalking my friend at my favorite track (getting on the gas through the last turn to get him on the brakes at the end of the straight!), but because we swapped bikes and he didn't get a lap in. He said my bike was unridable. I rode his a few laps, but swore he had both ends welded to the frame. And yet...look at us, doing nearly exactly the same things, same lap times, same body position, etc. What a great sport we have!

I seem to be floating around 7k miles per year of late, and 2021 had me "up" at 8097...so that's something. Over 3400 of those were at track days on the R6s, and only 2300 were on the VFRs. 

My annual peak was waaaaay back in 1999 (thanks, Prince!) with 21,520 bike miles...most of them on the 748, even though I owned an FJ. 

May I ask your weight with or without gear? Guesing 210 w/gear.

"Advice" in this area varies widely, and due to varying shock linkage and design...as well as personal preference, numbers vary widely as well!

https://www.penskeshocks.com/hubfs/Resources/Tech Sheets/PENSKE-SPRING-APPLICATION-CHART.pdf

...tells me 1100 lbs for my weight, but that would completely suck for me. 

That site and most others also call for 1200 lbs on my CB-1...which I have tried and it was unrideable. I run a 912 on there now and 950 was too harsh. 1300 didn't even move from no weight to when I sat on the bike. 

Same site for my R6 track bikes is 600 lbs. I run 575 lbs. 

Honestly, I think that many of these places never tested most of the options or never went back and updated their "list."

https://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx is another good place to start, but same deal. If you want it right, you're going to have to want to go through some trial and error. 

For me for the VFR, they suggest .9 front (yay!) and 18.8 kg/mm which is about 1050 lbs. 

(To convert lb/in to kg/mm you multiply by 0.0179 and to convert kg/mm to lb/in you divide by 0.0179.)
 

A few things to consider:

Rear shock

My ideal shock spring rate is ~900 lbs (I'm ~180-185 lbs in full gear). The stock shock is 857 lbs. For me, it is close enough unless I bump into a cheap aftermarket shock. The '98 has a Penske with 900 lb spring on it and there's a definite difference. Damping is a whole different story. The stock shock has no compression damping adjutment and it is set with too much damping. I'm just riding around it. the rebound damping is minimal adjustability, but at the stock 1 1/8 turns out from full in, it is adequate. The Penske on the '98 is miles better. Shimming it nearly 5mm also made a large, positive difference. Note that each setting has a purpose. You aren't going to solve a sage setting with damping, for instance. And...I'm cheap. Some folks seem to like progressive springs, and even talk about matching those front an rear. Every suspension person worth their salt that I have ever talked to says no, and after riding on both types, I agree. Straight rate spring are the proper choice. 

Front forks

My ideal fork spring rate is .9 and stock is .74. It is a huge difference and I put in the proper straight rate springs. The difference is night and day. Without fork internal modifications, there is no great way to modify damping for compression or rebound. Some folks change oil weight or add parts like emulators. They can change the feeling and performance, but if you have the funds, I highly recommend having someone like Thermosman properly upgrade the forks. The '98 had this done and I ride it like I ride my track bike without any issue. As my "b" VFR, I'm content with just the spring upgrade so far. We'll see if I feel the same once spring (pun intended) arrives and the warmer weather allows a faster pace. 

You'll want to consider geometry, ergonimics (for you), ground clearance as well as the specific functions of each part of the suspension (including tire and PSI choices). 

Winner winner, chicken dinner...so far (~260 miles). All of the mods have worked out well.

The forks aren't too bad with just the spring change and no valving mod.

The shimmed rear shock is adequate with preload on 3 (stock is 2) and rebound damping 1 1/8" turn out. Compressions damping is too stiff, but there's no adjustment, so it stays as is!

Regulator rectifier update is 14.3-14.4 at RPM and 12.6-12.7 at idle. Radar and GPS rockin'. 

Done (for now)!

Thanks all for the great info and to SF for the matching seat. You're like Lance(r) the not completely forgotten reindeer. 🙂

Still waiting for a few things, but it is coming together. 

Wired voltmeter w/2 USB ports. This will let me power the phone/GPS just like on the other bikes. Also added the RAM mount just like the other VFR. 

Wired the radar detector, but waiting for a cheap used unit and solderable 1/8" jack to arrive from fleabay later this week. 

Wired and (hillbilly) mounted the SH847. I'm not sure I want to drill two large holes in teh sides of the subframe yet. I'll probably just make a cheap plate. Cable ties for placement and one safety wire...for safety. lol

Waiting on yellow striped used seat (yay!). 

Rode UGLYRED the other day. Gods, that bike is nice to ride! The money I paid to have Thermosman do the forks was so worth it. 

Hoping to get out on the yellow bike on Christmas while it is still warm here. Can't wait to see how the shimmed shock feels. 

Hi bmart,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion