Skids

Personally, I can't wait to see the factory power unleashed.

Uses the Honda motor car logo instead of the Honda motorcycle logo. Doesn't mean it's a made up piece but.....

I changed my 08 brake lines for Galfer braided and I really liked the end result. Combined with a caliper overhaul, it will ensure your life-saving braking system is operating to near maximum.

Changed out my 01 lines too, excellent results. 

Do it 

Welcome and please let us see some photos when you get the bike. 

If you are looking for a VFR800X Service Manual, they are available for free in the downloads section.

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/271-2014-vfr800f2015-vfr800x-service-manual/

5 hours ago, mello dude said:

Awesome RC51! A bike thats on my bike lust list! 

Me too, but they are soooooooo expensive.

1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

Re undoing left axle nut, not having looked at an 8th gen in close up, I assume its staked like the 5/6th gens. Have you unstaked it ? Try a little penetrating fluid on the outer nut to axle thread seam, leave it soak for a couple of days. 

Thanks, already done both of those. Will make another attempt this weekend. 

21 hours ago, Mohawk said:

As noted above by JZH the carrier has a ridge level with the axle bearing. There are some simple tricks to avoid snagging any debris. On a stock swingarm always loosen the chain tension first by rotating the carrier clockwise, thus pushing any debris away from the carrier before moving it anti-clockwise to set the chain tension. If it will not move freely then you probably have existing debris jammed into the carrier &/or corrosion. 
Strip & clean to fix it. 
 

To avoid future issues, you can either glue some fine gauze mesh over the square holes on the insides by the shock to stop debris entering the swingarm &/or mice as per Dutchy's post. Or do same inside the end of the swingarm carrier holder. Also ensure the swingarm drain hole on the bottom just in front of the carrier holder is not blocked. 
 

If you use your bike in all weathers then the carrier/holder interface can corrode. To avoid this do NOT use lube, but coat inside of holder & outside of carrier with ACF50 or your chosen water displacement anti corrosion treatment. Allow to dry fully before assembly. If you ride in very wet conditions you can use a wipe of silicone grease around the carrier to holder joint to further reduce the ingress of water to the joint. I would also fit water caps to the square holes near the shock or seal them to prevent water ingress through those openings. 

As soon as I am able to release the 46mm nut on the hub, I shall do that.

Good tip re moving carrier the opposite way first.

On 10/20/2024 at 7:40 PM, Presson said:

Hi Skids, at the risk of being captain obvious, you said you were going to have to strip down and clean the mating surfaces. I'm assuming you haven't done that yet if you are still having to use hammer for chain adjust?

 

Given our climate (heaven knows it's been like monsoon season this last 4 weeks) and winter salt, I'd strongly recommend a bit of grease on the mating surfaces. I'm thinking copperslip but others might suggest a different type.

 

I'm trying to think up a simple means of covering the forward holes on the swingarm to avoid the build of of grit that JZH showed in his photo. I'll post if I find a working solution

Hi m8, no. I tried. I managed to get a lever arm approx 1.5metres long with the 46mm socket on the end.....and it wouldn't budge!

8 hours ago, bmart said:

37k miles is nothing. Ensure all maint is up to date and check all systems...then ride it like you stole it. 

What he said. 

1 hour ago, JZH said:

 

 

This picture, of one of my old bikes, shows what happens over time when grit builds up in the end of the swing arm (it enters through the big openings next to the shock).

 

 

As you can see, the bearing carrier has a casting feature that can catch on any grit which protrudes above the level of the machined part of the swing arm when you attempt to rotate the bearing carrier for chain adjustment.

 

Once the pinch bolt is loose, there is nothing which should require hammer force to rotate the carrier.  (You can also gently open the swing arm carrier opening even more by inserting a large, flat blade screwdriver into the split.)

 

I don't see any real need for lube on these parts.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

Thanks m8.

I do still have to hammer it to adjust the chain.

8 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

From the lack of traffic in this group, I don't think there are any 7th gen riders left anywhere..

We don't post cos they don't break. 😜

7 hours ago, Terry said:

My 5th gen manual certainly suggests installing things cleaned but unlubed. 

Yes, and I've always done that previously, even though not actually specified in the SM, but as they always gradually seize up, I wondered if lubricating would reduce or prevent this.

12 hours ago, VFR78 said:

Mine was dry when I took it out. No sign of lubricant. I don’t live in an extreme climate (Sydney) and have never had an issue with chain adjustment. I would leave it clean and dry.

Mine is very difficult to adjust, requiring a hammer which often rounds off the indents in the hub.

Tried to remove the 46mm nut this weekend. Even a 4ft lever wouldn't shift it.

I suspect the difference may be down to our differing climates.

15 hours ago, airwalk said:

Thin layer of slider pin lube(brakes) gets my vote…

Is that what you do?

It doesn't specify that the surfaces should be greased, so that implies dry and I've always left them dry, was just asking out of interest.

I'm about to replace the drive chain and both sprockets on my 2018 VFR800X and thought I might as well clean up the mating surface of the axle bearing holder and swingarm. Mine has gotten harder and harder to adjust the chain so it definitely needs it but is it a dry fit or would applying some grease help? I'm thinking not as that will just attract dust etc and ruin the mating surface.

Just asking.

Thanks.

On 9/20/2024 at 6:46 PM, Jeka33 said:

Update:

opened the pair valves today and found them full of oil again so I took the head cover of and found a missing o-ring on one of the collars. Also the gasket was full of rtv.

2 hours ago, Terry said:

Thanks for that information. Another way that oil can enter the PAIR system is if the o-rings under the cam covers are leaking. There are collars with o-rings that seal the cam space from the PAIR system, if these were mssing maybe you can draw oil direct from the cam space (which will have a lot of whirling oil). 

THIS happened on my 08 6th Gen following a main dealer service. I'm guessing the collar dropped out as the cam cover was placed back in position and the mechanic didn't notice.

Anyway, several weeks, several oil top ups later and I went out on a ride with some mates who complained I was spraying their visors with oil from the exhaust.

Took the cam covers off and realised what had happened. Found the offending collar lodged below in one of the oil runs, luckily it hadn't made its way towards any moving parts.

I changed my seat years ago to an aftermarket one but do recall there was an amount of separation.

Sorry I can't be of more assistance, I'm sure a current OEM seat owner will be along soon to confirm or not.

Hiflo website doesn't show a 3rd filter type for a VFR1200F DCT, just oil and air.

Nice bike, welcome 

2 hours ago, Ziffer said:

Quicker than stock.

Oh, so you want to be able to remove the centre stand quickly. 

Now it makes sense.

6 hours ago, Ziffer said:

Who has done a center stand modification and done a write up about it? I'd like to make a quick-release (or quicker, anyway) center stand. I saw where someone built an aluminum center stand. I'd be interested in hearing more about that as well.

Quicker than what? Sorry, just struggling to understand. 

3 hours ago, Goldcrown44 said:

Mucho gracias, merci beaucoup!  I've been to Honda's Motorsports website hoping to find something there for the 2012 DCT, but nope... zilch... nada.

Wondering how much changed between 2010 and 2012... ECU stuff?  Hoping to decode CEL flash sequences accurately.  

If you want to flash the ecu, speak with Stefan on FB, he flashes 1200 ecus remotely. He has a lot of experience.

I think there's a link in my signature (sorry, sat on a cruise boat on Budapest with a free bar right now