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ShipFixer

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Everything posted by ShipFixer

  1. Mixed news - its not the front CCT. Going after the rear with the front one I just pulled since I just had the one new one. Forgot I took video, I'll see if this uploads. Note the change with brights! IMG_0128.MOV
  2. So I think I have the answer "Why now?" after an accidental experiment tonight. When I flip on the brights...the noise completely goes away at idle while RPM stays steady. So when I add those ~100W / 0.13 HP or so of effort to the engine, the cam chain smooths out. With the bigger flywheel and stator, the engine is working less hard at idle to maintain the power out. Putting the brights on makes the crankshaft effort about like it was before with the original smaller alternator. So it's possible mine was this bad for a long while. Will find out tomorrow when I get a replacement CCT!
  3. Finally got to ride mine to and from work a few times. This is about two years after installing a new Honda slave cylinder so it is back to back. Yes...a lot less effort, this upgrade is a win! Clutch engagement zone or sweep is wider too. I didn't have any issues with the OEM cylinder being grabby or difficult to modulate, but this may be a thing for some riders.
  4. Revzilla has the new part number in stock - so I have two coming from one source and an overnight from RevZ.
  5. Well...no new one in hand yet, I was willing to try something 😉 Doesn't take too long to pull the airbox out. Will probably take a week or so. This is probably the cause right? I may try pulling it completely out and doing a "rewind" as the videos show. Not sure if there's any point though.
  6. Okay, the front or right side of my engine still sounds like a cement mixer. Runs great, VTEC works, but noise isn't going away. Should I have been able to turn the CCT counter clockwise a bit and maybe its stuck there? Also did not check the rear one yet, but that's the easier one. Sound kind of seems like what a loose chain might sound like to me: when I roll off the throttle, the rattle picks up like the valve train is figuring out what to do with momentum in the slack. It doesn't correlate to anything with my stethoscope, but I can't reach the front CCT with the airbox on. Can feel it a bit in the pegs, etc. Does not correlate to RPM, like a bad valve or something might. Occurs to me the other thing I did is the flywheel and stator...doesn't sound like an imbalance noise though.
  7. Pushed 20mL through the front CCT lifter...I'm able to wind it clockwise plenty, and it springs back all the way counter clockwise. Did not feel sticky. Buttoning it up!
  8. Not sure if serious. 😉 But...yes, the API label that matches what your manufacturer says is what protects those things. Your manufacturer does not recommend the API label that says "energy conserving," which is no longer in use since 2016, and the why is because of friction modifiers. At nautical grad school, we go pretty deep into the "why" :lol:
  9. Nevermind, I see from the video I need a small jeweler one. Getting that and trying it...
  10. Tried with a big flat head that fits the slot...it doesn't turn either way. Should it?
  11. Yup, got oil...so haven't quite tried yet - does it look like this? Big phillips #1 in there now, have different size flat heads. lightly trying to turn this top end does nothing yet.
  12. Got it. Have the air box now, about to try taking the bolt out and turning it. Without dropping anything in the V 🙃
  13. You mean they might not be bad? Did you have to remove them, or did you just remove the center bolt, squirt some oil down it, and turn it a bit? I can take apart the top of the bike tonight if so!
  14. Thanks! Yeah, the updated part number from the 8th gen is listed in the 6th gen diagram, right next to the original part. For the same price of course!
  15. One other thing - anyone see an 8th gen or new part number CCT fail a second time? I think someone has asked on the forum before but I don't know if we ever got a conclusive answer.
  16. Thanks! Pretty happy I did the stator before riding out, too. I mean...if the odds for CCT issues were this good...
  17. What are the odds that five miles after I completed my brake and stator/flywheel upgrades, my engine would start making noises at idle like it's throwing marbles at its insides? Apparently...really, really good. 🤦‍♂️ Doesn't want to do it at idle on the center stand when I am next to it with the stethoscope. No...only when I am on it and about to ride it. Comes and goes. Can't think of what else it might be, and the bike is at 46K miles so it's about time. Ordering the new part number (-013) and I might as well do both. Anyone know a place to get the CCT key tool without making one, that's not expensive? Or can I just go without it...
  18. Here's the final look - so much better. Cerakote and caliper overhaul by @SEBSPEED! Arashi rotors up front, Galfer lines, and new Cerakoted plastic pieces including the chain guards. I have a new rotor for the back but that requires taking out the rear hub. Have the parts for that, will do it next time. Rear brake is waaaaay better than it was, including the front linked piston. One observation that will probably be common to a lot of VFRs that have "unknown" maintenance for years: there was a whole lot of rust both in the parts and the fluid, that never went clear regardless of how much I tried to clear it. The large junction on top of the battery side proportional valve is ferrous and rusts in addition to the banjo bolts. Galfer provides a stainless steel replacement for that part. I don't think anything inside the valves is ferrous but the contaminated fluid will sit and gunk up the insides. In the end, I probably pushed at least 40 oz of brake fluid through the whole bike to flush contaminated fluid out. I used a C clamp on the front left caliper to activate or half activate the SMC, and then some circus tricks to get a pretty good flow of clear fluid from the rear reservoir all the way through. Took a while but necessary. Of all the changes the increased braking up front from the rear pedal is probably the most noticeable.
  19. All of that 😂 And that perhaps reducing friction in a device that is designed around a specific coefficient of friction isn't a good idea, as it will ultimately reduce static friction force and load capacity of said device. I tested some ceramic coating on a small corner of my tile floor the other day. I slid sideways pretty easily. The floor works better at a higher static friction coefficient. I do not have a lab where I can test for different surface treatments, nor do I have a design specification for a minimum coefficient of friction to match load capacity of the floor to foot system. I cannot predict when I might slide even if I don't slide all the time or haven't yet. So I left that alone and followed the label on the bottle that basically says "LOL no don't do that."
  20. The API certification for "Energy Conserving" was canceled in 2016. Bob Is the Oil Guy forums have a lot of discussions about them, between professional nerds in that industry. It's a discussion about additives though. Adding: there are still many oils out there with similar friction modifiers. I would Google up some professional references, including journals. They all concur on one thing...
  21. Had time for a quick bed-in ride around my condo circle before driving off to work. Brakes are firmer and crisper and overhauled calipers sure do glide smoother than 20 year old ones! Have to put all the plastic back on, full test ride and photos coming. Looks really sharp!
  22. Do you mean the plug on the stator end? That is male plastic enclosure/ female sockets by any chance? If so, I cut my old stator plug to get it out of the bike last night. If not...sorry 😕
  23. I finally threaded my new stator wiring through my bike, got everything installed, and turned it over last night. Who are you magicians who are able to pull the new one through with a string? I ended up cutting the wires on the old one, and had to eventually remove the airbox and force tubing and wires aside to get the new stator plug through. I doubt anyone wants a used 2002 stator when they should upgrade to the 2003+, but you can have mine if you want it. Just have to join the three wires where I cut it.
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