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ShipFixer

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Everything posted by ShipFixer

  1. Waiting to see how it works out for you guys before I shift to a wideband on mine 😂 Do they make sensors with right angle connectors by any chance? Gonna go look...
  2. The wood shims and hammer were the only tools required to make up for the front end misalignment. I think I could get them in place without them but it was a lot easier that way. I'd assume all of these experiences will be a little different, but I got the right one in first, then the shims pushed the left one out a bit where i could get it more forward and between the stud holes, then when i took the shims out it was pretty easy to line up the last centimeter or so of movement in the left one. If it were a bit harder for me and I didnt have the shims, I would consider removing the front wheel and fender so I could really get in and pull it a part and line them up by hand. Meanwhile, no luck on the studs and nuts coming apart. I may try a torch if I can find one, but meanwhile, if you haven't installed yet and you have an older bike like mine, you may want to order a few of the studs and nuts for the front cylinder ports just in case.
  3. Well...one thing, the bolts are still seized on two studs. I have them off the bike and soaking now while I play PUBG 😁
  4. Well, good news, I've got them about lined up. I used wood shims from Lowes to separate/unseparate them until they were about right. Bad news...two of my exhaust studs unscrewed out of the engine block rather than unbolt. The bolts are seized pretty hard. Talking to sfdownhill, not sure it's a good idea to screw them back in as-is since they will sit further out. Soaking them in PB Blaster before I try a round of new tricks to get them off. They don't look that bad, but hard to get a grip on. I'm on travel next Monday so a week wait for new studs and bolts isn't a huge deal but I'd like to get it done. All that said...everything looks really good right now. No engine/frame interference, the pipe flanges line up just right with the gaskets and ports diameter-wise, etc.
  5. Quitting for the night. Lining up the front pipes is a serious PITA. Everything else is in place, waiting to be torqued down.
  6. Progress... The VFRD headers are visually wider diameter on the inside, and my OEM gaskets were definitely intruding into the exhaust stream. Had no problem hand-seating the new copper gaskets in the rear exhaust ports. Going to clean as I go but smooth so far!
  7. Ok I have all of the exhaust flange bolts off. Just discovered the bolt in the bottom of the bike holding the catalytic converter to the frame. What're the odds I can get that off without removing the sidestand or centerstand, with a ratchet universal joint? Is it a capture nut on the other side?
  8. Finally getting around to this since I cleared out my garage. Headers, oil change, and RapidBike reset tonight...if it goes quickly enough maybe a test ride 😄
  9. So more like what didn't I do, but...bike badly needs a starter valve sync and idle reset. Runs great with everything fixed up on the electrical side over the last few months but often doesn't like starting. I can't get to it because the guy I sold the bike to in 2011 waaaaay overtightened exactly one of the airbox screws, and now its rounded out. Have to wait for a new one before I really go to town on it. 😡
  10. I must have missed this, but do we need extension cables for the O2 sensors?
  11. Hi ShipFixer, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  12. Discovered another VFR at work!
  13. The software download comes with two manuals. The first one is titled "RB Master Free 1-2-3 guide ENG" and doesn't tell you much. The next PDF is the full manual, and it's "Software RB Master Free - ENG." That's the one you want. There are some differences between the latest software and what's in the manual, and the screen shots from others in this thread going back six years look really different. It's enough to get you started with the software I guess, but there are things like engine braking that aren't well explained enough for me to mess with it.
  14. Also...pretty sure someone in this thread did it, didn't like it, and went back to the auto tune map?
  15. Not having seen Dynojet's software interface, it seems like this would be easy to do? Like just make your own map in lieu of the one RB ships with. But...the self tuning is going to make it OBE real quick I think. Like mine can go +/-8 out of the box, and a lot of my self tune adjustment values are already at the max values. I think the ignition advance adds some complexity that doesn't fit with the PC map crossover either.
  16. I didn't when I bought it, for sure. But pretty glad I have it.
  17. I went back through the thread, and other people's screen shots of ignition advance doesn't look like mine. And the engine braking screen is completely different now. I don't feel a need to play with ignition (I can see it applied a map with advances up to four degrees in spots already) but would kind of like to figure out engine braking. I enabled "something" but it doesn't seem to behave any differently than before. Closing the throttle down shuts down the fuel pretty quick. Did a 100 mile ride from San Diego to the other side of the Cleveland National Forest today to shake things out. 81 degrees at sea level here, 65-ish degrees at around 4,000 feet there on the Sunrise Highway. Lots of cruising on I-8 at 75-85 mph and rolling through twisty mountainside stuff. The stupid closed loop behavior is gone, and with the power curve smoothed out, it's a whole lot easier to hold speed on top of that. And the mid range power and response is just fantastic. I was able to just stay in 6th gear going uphill on I-8 with plenty of roll-on reserve to get way fast for passing. Before, at sea level, would usually tend to drop to 5th or 4th. On the mountain side, I stayed in third or fourth for reeeaaaally long stretches, using the whole power band just because I could. Definitely did not have to think much about gears, or worry about getting stuck in the wrong end of the rev range somewhere in a corner, or between corners. This is after ~200 total miles or so. As I do more miles I'm watching it continue to self-tune. If I did nothing else, I'd be pretty happy with how the bike is.
  18. Not sure who the OP is at this point in this thread. I will almost certainly get a wideband O2 to go with my headers in a month or two though. My VFR is stock right now, except for "mods that don't matter but people think they matter" like the snorkel and flapper. I am pretty sure I can feel the map steps (aka piecewise linear logic) right now when I am feeling around for them, while the drop/surge behavior is gone. I can only imagine the wideband sensor tuning makes them less obvious, along with making smaller pieces in the map of course.
  19. Interesting...thanks! Anyone play with the fuel injection and ignition advance much? The manual doesn't say a whole lot other than rider preference plays a part :lol: I'm not too worried about tuning at WOT, pretty happy with the mid-range steady state and roll-on behavior. Like if I got no more improvements and never had drop/surge behavior come back, I'd be content. Useability of the bike is waaaaaaay up, it's nice not having to futz with gear and throttle management too much in corners!
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