ciprinakos

The answer is no, I did not get the HID harnes from you. I'm a seaman and last year, while going (regularly) to Hueneme, I got the agent to order the VFRness bundle for me. I received from the ebay seller that sold me all the projectors, for free, also the controllers with the appropriate harness. It was a struggle to find place for everything. Unfortunately one of the controllers was defective - probably an internal short circuit between the power and the High beam signal. Because I did not have the patience to disassemble the controllers, I simply kick them out and in place I'm using two (one for each pair of bulbs) normal/basic auto relays to power up the bulbs. The high beam signal is going straight to each projector's coil. The delay functionality I've made it using adjustable relays (normal auto relays with a knob adjuster 1-50 sec). They are set up for aprox 7 and 12 sec so that, if all 4 projectors are powered up simultaneously, 2 will fire up immediately and the other two long enough for the power/current consumption to settle down. The latch is from my Cheetah VizAlert and is "...intelligent “engine running” sensor, the POWERSENSEnode, which you just attach directly to the battery terminals. This clever little gizmo automatically powers up your detector or jammer when you start up the engine, and shuts them down when you stop, so there’s no risk of a flat batteries" - quote from the maker's web site. It is connected to the VFRness and give-s the signal to power up the relay/fuse box. The fuse box is under the seat, but in parallel with it I have another 10 fuse box rooted to the right front side (now I have only 2 free slots). I thought of ordering from you but the shipping and the custom fee did not made it worth. Next time I'll reach US I'll try to get a RR, even though the OEM is still working great. The picture taken is not showing the real view - it was dark and the camera (an Iphone4) messed up the colors. Have more patience for more pictures, please. Time, right now, is something that I lack. Cheers!

The most difficult thing was to fit all the wires, ballast and igniters under the fairing. Unfortunately one 4300K was busted so I need to find a replacement. I'll need to make a beam adjustment and I should be good to go. To open up the headlight is not difficult and it wend much faster than expected after seeing the tutorials on youtube. 2-3 min with the hot air gun and it was done. I had to trim the upper projector's shroud to fit on the lower part. I did not make any pictures since there are plenty instructions on the net and/or youtube. The bling factor is made by blue angel eyes, red devil eyes and yellow led strip - my national colors. Beside the management of the multitude of wires, there was no trouble. Like the bulbs, these are powered up only if the engine is running (see below) and I have the possibility of switching them on in steps - first the angel eyes and the strip; - second step all together. The lights are all bi-xenon (4300k on lower and 6000k on upper) with possibility of switching them on either 2 by 2 or all together which basically means 4 bulbs on low or high beam simultaneously. Although HID are more economical than normal ones, the starting current is much higher and that puts to the stress the entire electrical circuit. For this reason the stock wiring should not be used and the assembly should be powered up directly from the battery with a higher section wire than stock. It is advisable to use also the kit from or similar to the ones on wiremybike.com. I am using a VFRness bundle with some extra mods. An extra 10 slots fuse panel which is powered up through a relay only when the engine is running and the RR is producing energy - I hated the fact that before starting the engine the lower beam was on squeezing energy from sometimes drain battery. Also the left side projectors are connected through some delay relays and starting with an almost 8 sec later than the right ones - for the same reason of stressing the electric circuit. Later I'll make some more pictures and a small phone made movie. Cheers.

... project ... in progress ... (the dirty spots & splashes are dead insects from the week end ride)

There is only one downside - if you'll ever think of getting steering damper you'll be hard pressed where to put it. Otherwise this setup is much more comfortable. Cheers!

I have the same alarm for more than 2 years now & I'm very happy with it. The thing is that you can switch on & off the proximity sensor from the remote (which have a very good range - just place the antenna under the instrument cover because is away from the bigger metal parts) and also you can adjust the sensibility from the module (I've placed it under the seat because most people, when approaching the bike, are first getting near the seat, also the sensor can be adjusted so that it can even get triggered by rain drops - see it in this picture near the rear brake reservoir with a piece of red tape covering the adjusting screw from jet wash water drops: ). The main components - alarm body & the siren - I've placed them on the right side under the fairing glued to the ECU: this way it's difficult to reach & also near impossible to silence the siren (foam is the easiest & faster method). Yes it will drain the battery if you keep the proximity sensor on for long periods of stand still. That's why, if you can manage, either use it only when you go out since you still have the shock sensor (adjustable in 5 stages from the remote) or, as I did, make a connection to charge (a small smart motorcycle designated charger will do) the bike when you get home. Check out the two wires going to the bike in this picture: The advantages of having the alarm are great: you can monitor the bike without seeing it; it cannot be started if you install it properly; since I believe you don't have HISS in US you can start & stop the engine remotely (good for cold weather situations or when there is an attempted start by either stolen key or contact wires cutting); etc. I do not agree with the people saying that an alarm is useless anyway in the face of professional thieves. I do not deny it either, but most problems are made by amateurs or people who just want to "look" how cool they would look on a bike - if no fuss is made than they may want to do more than look. I had this situation countless times. When I catch the guys (never happen to see a woman getting close to the bike without permission) they all reply "I just want to look!" & my answer is "Yes, that's fine but do it from the distance not to disturb the alarm." Most of them were normal looking people but some of them were not - and in my country bikes get stolen a lot. In conclusion I recommend it or any other alarm with similar capabilities.