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My cleaning tips Remove front wheel/cables but leave brake lines attached. Place large bowl under forks to catch fluid. Remove non piston pads.. Start braking.. One side will always push out quicker. Using a C clamp lock it when it's almost out/loose.. Now pump out the slower caliper till its about to pop out. It's very important to get BOTH calipers as close to popping out as possible!! Remove clamp and apply brakes.. One piston will pop out, and you will lose brake pressure.. Now to get the remaining pistons out DO NOT GRAB PISTON SIDE!! you will damage it by nicking it which will eat through new rubbers. First try grab the metal edge outside of the seal that contacts the pad, this does not affect sealing, just the lip, try wiggle it out... If this fails, you can use strong leather/rubber around the piston with large jaw pliers, but make 500% sure you do not touch metal to metal.. If you followed my instructions properly this shouldn't be a problem at all. Try to not drain your upper master cylinder.. It's more work to bleed this over a night or two.. Leave old fluid in and try tie brake lines higher so fluid stays in. Cleaning: I have used good old seals many times.. Yr call here.. One easily overlooked area is the seal groove.. I use a 90 degree heavy gauge wire.. The brake fluid with oxidize on the upper side and leave a almost solidified gunk in there.. What this does is reduce the necessary clearance required for good piston movement, resulting in braking power being absorbed here, AND reduced piston travel when brakes are released which will accelerate pad wear.. Inspect pistons for any signs of nicks, esp if you had signs of leaking.. I like to clean the entire piston to avoid re contanimating new fluid.. Remove rust, esp in back of piston. Now when you take to the piston, NEVER sand it dry, use some brake fluid (not oil/gas/) and start with 2000 water paper. ALSO sand across the LENGTH of the piston, so you don't leave marks across that will work perpendicular to the rubber seal (this is just preventative measure imo).. The piston should be absolutely spotless. Now for those new to this, the pistons are steel and will rust, however the caliper is ALUMINIUM, IE SOFT, DO NOT dive in with anything other than the softest material that will suffice.. 2000 wet or REAL soft scotch pad that Ben used alot can work, you should only clean if you see brake fluid stuck.. Even a finger nail is sufficient.. This part also won't rust, but oxidize.. Make double sure the seal groove is clean again.. Now the rubber seals also get hardened brake fluid stuck on them, I usually clean this with soft scotch pad, gently pulling it thru.. If your seals break its a sign they are shot and/or ur a monkey and need to learn the art of gentle.. Anyway, they are made from good quality runner and shd def be able to withstand some cleaning. The outer dust seals are also important.. Try keep them in one piece unless replacing.. The ring that keeps them can rust too, clean this all out. Now reassemble the lot, if the seals have even the slightest of rise on one side, that side faces towards the fluid always.. Vfr I have seen the seals are not raised. Coat piston in brake fluid or red brake grease, and gently insert, make sure you don't nick the rubber.. 99.9% of the time, once you get piston in past seal, you can punch it all the way in with thumbs quite easily. Take your time here.. Do not force! If they bind gently remove and try again. Push them all the way in.. This will reduce the air inside and make installing pads over discs easier. Reattach and bleed.. If your master cylinder drained, and your brakes are spongy after ten minutes of circular bleeding both calipers, you have midget bubbles in there, pull brake as hard as possible and cable tie over night.. If it'd still spongy do it another night. Mine was, after second night my brakes were so stiff I thought they were over pressurized.. I slacked off the lever to leave a bit of play and they were rock solid. 86 vfr 750.

hi all.. Bought a vfr750 from a chap with spare motor for $200.. Bike runs great, but no front fairing.. Came with after market china junk headlight that couldn't beat a candle.. Right now my clocks are tucked behind the Darth vador front thing, what other vfr bike clocks can I rewire to fit? Mine has cable speedo.. Plus they are old and worn.. Looking for a bike with waterproof clocks I can fit.. Dont mind cutting loom.. Also, can a single side swingarm be made to fit? Plenty of vfr400s around here.. Tx

howdy guys - i balanced my carbs 2 months ago.. bike was running quite well.. it seemed to pickup a bit on the low end - anyways, mine is the rc24, and manual says 2 1/2 turns out, for the fg/fk. I cleaned carbs 3 1/2 months ago (twice) cos my pilots were dirty and it was back firing etc.. I have a SS exhaust and i regularly rub the inside with my finger to she hows shes running - lately been getting black powder, since the balance.. choke is not sticking - i have already run bike at 1 / 34 turns and am now down to 1 1/2(!) - just did a 40km ride mostly highway moderately hard and found a little bit of black powder once again and i cleaned it really wel with scotch pad before leaving.. I know my air filter is fine (K&N).. any thoughts? Also - cleaned all pistons and flushed all brakes - but blimey what i thought would take 1 1/2 hours took a day and a half! Brakes are better but 50% of the lever travel hardly does anything. I removed mc twice, blew it out - still! it was def braking better b4. I did alot of reading and the lever is currently tied under pressure - ill see what its like in the morning. I must have bled the system for AGES till not a single bubble came thru.. I tried all the tricks - tapping with hammer / priming MC / what i noticed is when i let the lever fick forward theres a funny sizzling sound coming from the mc - and tiny tiny bubbles come out, although its gotten less - and i noticed that at one point the mc was sucking back on the brake system, instead of drawing fluid from the reservoir as is expected (this during bleeding).. so im stumped - never been set back so badly by brakes(!!) any ideas here??

set the valves last month when i replaced faulty gear fork.. I cleaned jets and carbs out as well cos i had backfiring and found 3 of 4 pilot jets blocked by gunk. Bike seems to run well, but want to get it dialled in real nice.

Hi - I finally got my home made manometer hooked up and spent a good hour getting them all as close as possible. I was still burning a bit rich (must have confused q-jet with these lol) and turned mixture screws out a bit too rich. went back to about 2 turns out per carb.. however id still like to get them syncd better - I tried this method but even closing screw fully hardly made any difference - i just tried one carb tho just cant seem to get it to idle up or down - any ideas/tips? is it better to run two rear cyls a 1/8th turn richer since they dont cool as well?

I pulled engine and split crank case, found 3rd gear fork eaten away on one side- replaced fork and one set of gears and all is perfect! FYI the clutch slipping feeling were my carbs, 3 of my 4 pilot jets were blocked causing a surging feeling. Cleaned and the bike is running strong now.

Hi all. Just read thru this article and it sounds allot like my problem http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72644-4th-gen-clutch-issues/page-6 When i goto 3rd it starts slipping in and out of gear making a grinding noise.. 1,2,5,6 are OK.. With 1 and 2 perfect.. When the bike idles and i lean it left and. Right the noise changes to a light rattle inside. I have a spare motor, will be first time crackinga trans issue in many yrs. Any ideas? One mech said sometimes the trans wears into the cover and i should shim it or something. Do i have to drop motor to split case? Tx