coderighter

Great write-up! I wish I was as good at getting stuff out of my head and onto "paper". If you want to try the vacuum switch, let me know and I'll hook you up. It makes a big difference if you do a lot of round town riding, not so much if you do mostly highway.

As kind of a side note here, on my '06 the PAIR solenoid never energizes after the bike gets warm (around 160 or so). After that, it just along for the ride. I actually connected a test light and rode around to figure this out (I also did this for the EVAP, but that's another tale). This would make sense because it's when the bike is cold that you have a bunch of unburned hydrocarbons. Adding a little oxygen would not only help continue the burning and use up some of those hydrocarbons, but this "extra" little camp fire will help heat up the CAT and O2 sensor. Besides, PAIR can't operate during close loop anyway. I would believe all 6th gen would operate this way and would be very surprised if 5th gen was any different.

Actually, the additional O2 currently only helps 2 cylinder bikes. None of the changes that I saw will directly help the VFR except those that wish to quickly convert a PCIII map to PCV map. By adding this tool, they're reconizing the PCV applications on pre '09 bikes, even if they say it's not supported. There also maybe improvements that aren't seen.

The new PCV software includes tool to convert a PCIII map to a PCV map. They also added the choice to have 2 O2 sensors on 2 cylinder bike. The duel O2 set will allow you to map each cylinder, separate for each gear. (I wonder if that ST3 I test rode a year ago is still available?) Before tune by cylinder was a HD only thing. They also changed how the speed is set up,... slightly. There might be some other unseen changes.

It basically eliminates or reduces popping on deceleration with an aftermarket exhaust. Basically, the PAIR system injects fresh air into the exhaust for emissions purposes. Also, if one were doing dyno testing and tuning of a Power Commander, the PAIR system would probably muck with your air/fuel readings in the exhaust, which would sabotage all your tuning efforts with the PC. I was doing some checking a while back and used a meter to check the voltage at the solenoid valve and found that it only operates below 160 degrees. Also, it only operates when the throttle is closed. It helps heat up the O2 sensors and cat. Once the bike is over 160, they both should be plenty hot. Really you could leave it connected during a dyno. I believe other bikes could operate differant, thus the Dynojet blanket statement. I ditched mine PAIR just to have one less thing to fail.

A good place to research oil, filters and other motor fluid stuff is here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php Also, keep in mind that even though the oil filters have anti-drainback valves, they will drain back over time. With the larger filter, once it drains back, it will take longer to fill at start up. So... a little more element or oil pressure a little sooner? Humm.... On a small block Chevy where the filter is vertical and the oil can't drainback, bigger is better. On the VFR, it's not so cut and dry.

Or you could do this. You need to scroll down to post #7. The flasher is the same as my '06 hazard. http://www.zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85306 Or if you don't want to open one up, for $15 you can plug and play with this. http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm#Standard_DOT_Flasher If you have an '06 or newer, it's a whole differant bag of worms! See here- http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56459&st=0&p=668170&fromsearch=1entry668170

Check this out..... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=51935&st=0&p=618720&fromsearch=1

Cool, Just ask if you have any ?'s

Came across this researching for my ZRX. Funny, Honda appears to use the same flasher. You'll have to scroll down a little to get to the meat of it. http://www.zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85306

Starting in '06, Honda started using a simpler turn signal switch with a special light relay that contains the flasher for the turn signals. They also changed the front signal bulbs from 7443 (21w/8w) to 7440 (21w). When the turn signal is not active, the voltage to the front bulbs is around 6VDC to show like a 8w bulb to give you running lights. The left the old pre-'06 flasher in place for the hazard lights. If you try to install LED's you'll get the fast you-have-a-bulb-out flash, and depending on the LED bulb, no running lights. I removed the special light control relay and hazard flasher and replaced with this- '06 and newer flasher mod for LED The flasher is the standard electronic '35'. Some label it 'FL','EL','EF',or 'FL'. The main thing is that it's the electronic version. You will need to cut trace or pin for leg 7 on the IC. See here- http://evnut.com/rav_flasher.htm The blocking diodes could be any _001 or _004. I just happen to have a bunch of 7004's laying around. All resistors 1/4 watt The 2.8k resistors to ground are to get the flasher to see a load. LEDs present almost no load until they start conducting. If the flasher won't trigger with your bulbs, decrease the value until it does. If you get to 1k or less, you have another problem. The voltage regulator is where you set the voltage level for the running lights. The regulator is good for 1.5 amps. I have mine set around 9VDC. At 9VDC both my bulbs draw less than a .25 amp, yours may be a little different depending on voltage and bulbs. The fuse is to protect the regulator from the use of standard bulbs. I have it set so that if the hazard lights are on, the running lights are disabled to conserve battery. (I know, that was a little over the top) I have another method that is actually simpler, but not sure if it would be legal. In that version, the front running lights would be full bright and would flash off-on with the turn signal. The problem would be that they would flash opposite the rears. Would that be illegal? Humm..... Post up any questions.

Any chance I could take advantage of the map by gear for my 5th gen? Jim Yes, It's just that '06 and newer is map by gear from the factory so to have any Power Commander to work correctly, it needs to be map by gear also. PCV map by gear is very useful to richen up things in the lower gears to make it run better and still have a fuel efficient (leaner) 5th-6th gear cruise. You could do that regardless of year. Disclaimer: I've been told a PCV will work on a 5th gen, but never tried it myself.

Hmmm.... 18:1 isn't right. I think something might be wrong here. Did you- 1. Disable the PAIR? 2. Set up the Autotune to be disabled unitl at least 160 degrees? 3. Run the O2 sensor test, as per the Autotune manual? 4. If you bike is '06 or newer, did you setup for map-by-gear? If you want I can send you my latest map. If so, PM me.

'jasonsmith' Yes, just order the '09 works out of the box no problem. Heck, 'JES_VFR' VFR is an '01! See this post for more info. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=52266&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 'JES_VFR' Here's what I got for temps - volts 120 - 1.605 130 - 1.482 140 - 1.337 150 - 1.208 160 - 1.015 170 - .862 180 - .775 190 - .693 200 - .643 210 - .580 These my vary a little unit to unit. This should get you real close and you can tweek a little by connecting a computer to the bike while it's running and making changes. A voltage goes down as the temp goes up. Keep in mind that the temp on the right side of the screen is not correct while adjusting the table, you have to clink 'OK" to get the temp to update on the computer. Just for info, once you set this up you can use the temp enrichment feature. You can set multiple points. I actually set one (10%) at 215 to help cool things down a little in traffic if need be. Just remember to subtract your max lean percentage from the number you want because the Autotune will try and lean it back out. For example, I wanted a 5% enrichment at 215 and my max lean percent on my Autotune is currently 5%. Add the two together and you get the 10% I put in the enrichment table. I'm guessing I could go 10% (15% in the table) but my bike never really gets hot. I think the most I've ever seen is 222. If you lived in a real hot climate, you could go 5% at 215 and 10% at 220 or something. Let me know if you have any problems.

yeah I'd be interested in getting one, maybe two, but at least one. The first thought is duplicate your setup with one my 5th gen to shut off the autotune function on deceleration. The second I'll use if the Pair Solenoid turns out to not run at lower engine temps as I need a way to shut off vapor flow from device on deceleration. I've had block off plates on my VFR since before Toro was done with the prototyping of the toro-charger. I just capped the ports of the solenoid and the airbox and left it plugged in. But if it really only opens on deceleration, then I'd rather use it to control the vapor from a project device. If not I can always find a spot for another vacuum switch, a relay and another small ported solenoid. Will your tables work with a set of 5th gen maps? If not I'll just do it myself, it doesn't sound impossible. I'm really hoping I can get some positive results with my project before I have to install the PC-V, autotune, the vacuum switch and more tuning stuff. But we will see shortly. According to Bike Bandit, the 5th and 6th gen use the same temp sensor so I'm guessing it would work fine. Keep in mind the sensors my very slightly from unit to unit.

Hey can you give us the source for the vacuum switch? I may need this for more than just a way to switch off the Auto-tune on a project I'm working on. Also can you confirm for me, if the pair solenoid is activated or deactivated on deceleration? For some reason I thought it was deactivated, but someone else here said its activated on decel. Lastly, you said the temperature sensor has to be calibrated, which is the first I've heard about this. Is it a difficult process, can you describe the procedure? At this point I think the PC5 + autotune and a vacuum switch is going to about half of the hardware costs on this project. At least I'm hoping so. hoping to find some simple answers to some complex questions. Will, I thought I had two sources but the one on Ebay for $50 (with shipping) was a 1 to 6 inch hg where the model I have 6 to 24 inch hg. The other source was $20 a piece (plus shipping), however when I went to order one (for brake light experiment) I found they had a 5 piece min. Went ahead and ordered 5 thinking I would either use them or sell them on Ebay. I should get them next week. Would you like 1 or more of them? By the way, they have a normally open and normally closed contact rated @ 15 amps, 120v. I hooked a led to the PAIR solenoid and the only time I could get it to light was closed throttle. However, I have since read that it is also on when the temp is below 160. I have not tried this but have read several accounts in a couple different places. The day I tested, I had done a couple our things on the bike and I believe when I left, it was over 160, but I'm not positive. I didn't think the engine temp would play into it. I removed my so don't feel the need to revisit this but if anybody finds out anything different, please pass it along. If this is true, the only advantage to disconnecting might be smoother off idle. Other than that, it's a none factor. The temp is just a 0-5v sensor. The PVC has 2 to 10 cells temp cells, you choose. The more cells, the more accurate. Lets say you choose 4, you than give them a temps, say 150,170,190,and 210. You then use a volt meter, start the bike and measure the temp sensor to ground. As you get to those temps (150,170,190,210), record the voltage. Next, enter the voltage reading in the cells below the corresponding temp and your done. The PCV will use this info to figure all the temps in between. That's why the more you use, the more accurate. Or if you want, I can email you mine. I'm pretty OCD and did all ten, twice, just to make sure.

- Why would you be waiting for the high beams to warm up if you stay halogen? They will light up the same speed as always unless you switch them to HID (bad idea). As for other aspects to the discussion on HID lights: - get a good kit with bulbs that are nicely centered and decent ballasts. - don't run cooler color temp than 6000K if you want decent lighting. 6000-6500K is noticeably blue, with 5000K being slightly blue. 4300-4500K is pretty much the brightest, purest white light you can get. 2500-4000K will give you a yellow look (yellow color increasing with drop in K-value) and will be good for contrast and poor weather. If you just want HID blue lights for the "look" then save yourself the money and headache of install and just get yourself a set of blue tinted halogen bulbs. Both are useless, but look "cool" if you are into that sort of thing. - Blue lights don't get you noticed any better, as every other idiot on the road seems to think 6500K to 10000K blue lights are the shit. Intense yellow color stand out more, if you ask me, and aren't as annoying to other drivers. - I could go on and on with this subject, but I will spare you all. If you want to educate yourself, look up HIDplanet or The retrofit source and do some reading. Re-read it. I was stating my reason for not using HID in the high beam. I'll check with those sources, Thanks

OK, now I'm really confused. I went and triple checked, I have a H4 for my low beam. My low beam is on all the time. If I hit the high beams the 2 top lights come on, which appear to be H7 bulbs. Since HID have to warm up, my intent is to replace the low beams with HID and leave the high beams stock. When I need high beams, I don't what to be waiting for a warm up. I may actually up the high beams to 70 watt later, since the HID only draw 35 watt warm, I'll have a few watts to spare.

First, PCV by itself, will do everything the PCIII will do in a smaller package, for the same money (plus or minus a couple bucks). The PCV will also do things a PCIII won't, mainly map by gear, 0-5v input to connect sensors to further alter mapping, and of course the all mighty Autotune. You don't have to use any of these features now. but at least if you change your mind in the future you can. Any map that works on a PCII and be made to work on a PCV. Loading the maps are very easy. Hook-up a computer (USB), open the program then click the "send map" button and about 3-4secs later, it's done. Install of a Power Commander by it's self is about a half hour plug and play, tops. Autotune adds 1 to 2 hours. You need to disable PAIR. If you map by gear, you have to connect to the vehicle speed sensor and do a little calibration work. Then if you want not sample until you get up to temp, you have to connect to the temp sensor, and calibrate that. Once that's all done, you only spend much time tinkering as you want. It pretty much takes care of itself, hence the term "Autotune". My 2 cents.