suzukijo Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 It seems the online manual is no longer working, I didn't download it when I first saw it, and I now have a replacement shock. If there are instructions elsewhere, please post link, or a couple of lines of how to go about it. it looks like it will come out the bottom, if the lower links were loosened and muffler tilted out. difficult to see how to access the top shock mount, from a quick glance, does the tank need to be tilted back? I have removed all the lower plastics to clean the exhaust headers, those were easy enough. Those are back on now. Reading other thread, one said 5 hr for shock change. I also have the standard centerstand mounted, which doesn't seem in the way. New shock is ohlins S46HR1C1S, with preload adjuster, and remote. just where does the remote mount? the preload would seem to mount where the old one does. Any help from those that have a link for this, or hints on what needs to be taken off, appreciated. update, 10/10/14, with 86 views and no response, I ordered the manual from helm today. I assume most want to see how to change the shock, me too. good time to send out the ECU I guess. Thx, joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 this is the bracket that comes with the Ohlins shock (it comes unpainted)....i punched some vent holes in it because it was getting hot under the seat...and my thighs and butt the top mount is under the tank... .upper bracket mount nut...31 ft lbs upper mounting nut 32 ft lbs lower mount nut ..32 ft lbs all of the linkage bolts 47 ft lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaq123 Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 did your Ohlins have its recommended adjustments settings (comp and rebound clicks) printed in the manual? Do you remember what it was? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 it wasn't too hard to install yes the manual has all of the settings and full instructions on setting sag and damping.....very informative i'll go get the book after this inning !!!!! top of the 9th !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaq123 Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 my vfr came with Ohlins so I have no manual. I know Ohlins usually prints/specifies the starting point for the adjustment of comp and rebound (Blah blah blah clicks of compression and rebound). Sag adjustment is pretty standard for any bike. If you still have the manual, can you look it up and post how many clicks do they recommend? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 ok this is the install manual with the settings i don't know why the scans post sideways...sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaq123 Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 thank you sir. Just to confirm a few numbers as they look at a little blury. Reccomended set up: rebound 16 clicks? or it is 18? hard to see compression 12 clicks spring preload 13mm Free sag and ride height R1-R2= 16mm? R1-R3=38mm is it accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 rebound 18 compression 12 sag 16 and 38 preload 13mm i'll email it to you if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukijo Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Got the Helm service manual, and to get the shock out, the lower fairings, need removal, fuel tank side panels need removal. to tilt the fuel tank, and get to the top shock mounting nut, yes. So pulled the ECU out for reflash, going to mail that in today, spend some time to lube the linkage, and get the shock installed. The Shock, although is one called out, was originally for the CB1K, off my '12. its 10mm short, but it has the stiffer spring, and on the CB needed no preload, and still felt stiff, so hoping it will be ok with the VFR. If not, I can always put the stock shock back in.\ thanks Ishark for the pictures of the stock reservoir mounting, my shock does not have that plate, but it looks pretty simple to fab something to mount it. It looks like I can add a small spacer, with longer bolt for top mount to compensate, for this small difference, hoping the valving is not too far off. For those that think the bike sits low in the back, a small spacer in the top mount might be the change, an easy one at that, they are looking for. If I could figure out how to post pictures, I would add them here.clicking on the image icon, goes grey screen, that locks my computer? (any links to how to post pictures here) also a good time for me to clean the headers, and look into the airbox, tap the air filter for bugs, and get to know how things are under all that bodywork. nice having access to the helm manual, this is a very easy to work on bike. imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 CLICK ON "MORE REPLY OPTIONS" TO POST PICS...THEN CLICK BROWSE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukijo Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 I see. I used the shock from my CB1K, it has the same #, and was a little short. I added a spacer under the top shock mounting to equal the stock shock length. I used the 2 brackets, that originally held the preload adjuster, and reservoir, changed their shape a little. All I need to do now is to attach the reservoir to the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukijo Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 As an update to this thread, to get to the back shock. remove the lower frairings, side fairings, lower tank covers, upper side tank covers, right rear frame cover and muffler, tilting the fuel tank up will allow access to the top shock mount nut, using a tie down strap to hold the rear wheel in place, removing the 3 bolts with the triangle plates for the linkage, will allow the shock to be lowered downward, and out the bottom of the swing arm. of course the preload adjuster 8mm bolt will need removing. I lost the neat little black bracket on the right front tank mount, I thought it was part of the tank mount, when I lifted the tank, it fell down somewhere into the innards of the bike, didn't come out the bottom. I need to search for it, if I cant find it, I hope it doesn't cause harm. has anyone dropped theirs also, where did it eventually land? everything is all tidied up now, hoping to get a call from john, when he gets my ecu box. maybe next week it will be back on the road. hopefully. added a few pictures, one showing where I mounted the reservoir, easy to reach in for adjustment, with time I want to make a more proper method of attaching the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukijo Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Everything is all buttoned up and I'll test ride tomorrow. Early impression, riding around the local streets, its all fine. Taking it out for a long ride, with dips in the street will tell more decisively, and I'll get to experience the Guhl reflash also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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