30 amp fuse block heat issue

[Guest Jlewis50]

In another post I mentioned that I was able to get my bike running. No fuel pump. Replaced fuse and bike fired right up. The fuse block showed signs of heat problems and the brown wire to it show a problem as well.

The brown wire gets hot to touch when the bike is running. I think I will order another fuse block and replace it ane the line to it. The red wire isn't as hot.

The battery does show sign of needing replacement. It failed a load test I did on it.

Maybe a fresh battery and a fresh fuse assembly will fix the problem?

[gll429]

this MORE than what your asking for.. but will solve your problems...

grab another BIG cup of coffee!!

todays how to.. save your R/R hopefully from going bonkers on you. :computer-noworky:

this is my personal set up that i have done to many bikes with great results.

this his HOOPDC'S 95 vfr750. :fing02:

Regulator rectifiers absorb 3 strong alternating currents (AC)

from the stators yellow wires, and change them to a steady stream of direct current (DC) via the red wire. .

if the R/R gets to much juice it sends the overflow to the ground with the green wire..

however.. the green wire is kinda wimpy and runs to the main harness and meets a bunch of other wires with juice going through them..so the flow gets a bit hot...

and heat build up is what kills the R/R

ok.. take a sip of coffee...breath..

if your not deaf like me ..put on AC/DC's "long way to the top"

sooooo, what you need!

i am assuming you know who to solder and have an mini or electric soldering iron,..if not.. get one and practice a bit.

you need green wire,eyelets, a brown wire, connection ends, a computer fan, heat transfer compound, a wire brush and a pick. :comp13:

take r/r and stator wires ..disconnect them. take the pick and remove the tanks from the blocks and scrub them clean!

now.. take the eyelets and solder them to the green wires. if your wire is thin you can double up or triple if needed.

make 3 off them about 5 inches long.. you can cut them short if needed.

find your tail connection and splice in one of the eyelet extensions and bolt it to the frame .. taking a little paint of helps with the connection. do this with the green wire coming from the R/R and the bunch of green wires up at the front of the bike.

take your computer fan..(this one from a dumpster..RECYCLE!)

and fit it over your R/R.. you may need to make a mounts for it.. this one was perfect.. just needed a shave to open the spot for the plug.

drill the mounting holes.. then remove the R/R and put lots of heat transfer compound on it.. this is just a dab.. dont be shy with it. :biggrin:

mount your R/R and fan.. ground the fan neg wire and and the connection plug on the positive. splice in the brown wire to the power wire for your brake light. brown is power accessory on hondas. :fing02:

and your done! :bliss:

this may seem like overkill... but overkill in the garage is MUCH better that a dead bike on the road! :fing02:

[ericlw]

accually you only need a VERY thin layer of the heat transfer compound.you arent trying to bridge a 1 inch gap its only to smooth out the peaks and valleys of the metal at a micron level.using too much will make it not transfer heat as well.

[gll429]

accually you only need a VERY thin layer of the heat transfer compound.you arent trying to bridge a 1 inch gap its only to smooth out the peaks and valleys of the metal at a micron level.using too much will make it not transfer heat as well.

99% gets squisshed out anyway.. :huh:

[Bad Boy]

I have had the same 30 amp fuse issue. That fuse is on the wire that connects the rectifier (power source) to the battery. It is heating up because there is either too much current or too much resistance in that wire. If the battery is weak or bad it would draw more current to recharge, this could over load this wire. The fuse holder is a restriction in that wire, having more resistance at that point more heat will build up. Add some corrosion to the connector adds more heat.

My fuse holder as well as the stator and stator connector over heated and failed at a time when the battery failed the load test but still started the bike without hesitation. I replaced the battery, stator, rectifier, fuse holder, and had the wiring recall done. Shortly there after the fuse holder started to heat up again. I replaced it with a automotive type 30 amp fuse holder. Since then the fuse holder has remained cool (30k miles)

I would recommend replacing the battery and the fuse holder with a 30 amp automotive type. This will directly address your problem.

The 6th gen RR is not as prone to heat failure issues as earlier generations were and I checked my ground wires for voltage loss and did not find them to be a problem. I think we have different issues involved here.