Brake Pad Replacement - Additional Steps

[Dan]

Recently I found my self needing to select new brake pads for my bike so I opened the question up to the forum and, as usual, got a lot of interesting supplemental information about extra steps that people take when doing a brake job.

In the thread two post were made which I felt would be particularly helpful to anyone planning a brake job. I have included them here.

Post made by THX1139 on 4/24/07

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ROTOR PREP

IMHO prepping the rotors and maintaining the system has at least as much to do with good brakes as pad choice. When my pads are worn enough to replace, it's time for a caliper rebuild.

Not as big a job as it sounds; and if I don't have a hanging piston and the seals look good I don't buy a rebuild kit. Just carefully pluck the seals/O-rings with a wooden toothpick. Rubber gets cleaned with soap&water, everything else with alcohol.

I polish each of the pistons, mounting them on an expanding rubber mandrel that spins in my drill press. With careful application of some 1500 wet-or-dry they shine like mirrors.

Pistons, O-rings, seals, get reassembled with AGS Sil-Glyde while sliders/pins get synthetic moly caliper grease.

ALWAYS clean my discs with 220 folded in half around the friction ring and wash with acetone. Always hose down pads with brake cleaner, even brand new ones.

Then the master cylinder gets the same clean/polish/Sil-Glyde treatment.

Spending the extra effort really makes for a precise, needle-bearing-like feel at the lever; and so far I haven't felt the need for anything stronger than the stock Honda pads.

________________________________________

The following is a very helpful reference contributed by Gatekeeper on 4/23/07.

From http://www.braketech.com/tech/bedin.html

Racing Brake Pad | Bed-In Procedures

Racing is serious business. Virtually everyone involved with racing spends tremendous time, energy and money in the pursuit of checkered flag. So assuming you want the best from your brakes, please take the time to read and follow these simple procedures:

1. For best results, prepare the disc rotors by using a Rotor Hone (BT-RH10.0) or glass-beading the brake swept area. This is particularly important if you are switching from a sintered metal pad as the copper deposition layer burnished into the surface of the rotor can be a barrier to allowing a carbon/metallic pad from bedding-in properly. Maintain your rotors by rotor honing or glass-beading every time you replace your brake pads. On liquid cleaners; Acetone or denatured alcohol on a clean shop towel is recommended, Do not use an aerosol brake cleaner as many leave a residue that promotes brake pad glazing. Take this opportunity to check for fluid leaks. For best performance, we recommend changing your brake fluid every 2-3 events with a premium fluid (more frequently in humid climates).
   Please note: DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid is not recommended.
   
2. Heavy braking should be avoided until the new linings are fully seated across the entire mating surface. A visual inspection may be required. Scored discs will require substantially greater bed-in time, reduce overall stopping power and are potentially dangerous. We recommend replacing badly scored or distorted rotors with our advanced composition Ductile Iron or Stainless full-floaters.
   
3. Initially, the brakes should be used lightly (roughly 60-70% of normal) but frequently. As you feel the brakes come in, follow this with progressively harder braking to maximum pressure with momentary cool-down between applications. The goal here is to impart an even transfer film layer from the new friction material to the operating surface of the rotor. Do not try braking hard until they do and you are reasonably certain this is accomplished (usually 3-7 laps).
   
4. If a fall-off in performance is experienced due to heavy braking prior to the new pads being fully bed-in, it is important to allow the brakes to cool down before continuing. A “glazed†surface condition can usually be easily remedied by either utilizing the Rotor Hone or bead-blasting the brake swept area to the remove the burnished deposition layer left by the previous pads. Remove the glazed surface of the pads friction face, reinstall and repeat bed-in procedure.
   
5. CHRONIC GLAZING: Characterized by a very firm brake lever with very poor braking performance regardless how hard the lever is applied. Most motorcycle manufacturers utilize a heat-treated surface hardening process on their stainless steel rotors in an effort to help them survive with sintered metal pads. This sometimes creates a problem with semi-metallic compounds during bed-in. If glazing persists, glass beading of the brake swept area can eliminate the problem by thoroughly cleaning the surface and attenuating the heat-treatment with a more compatible shot-peened version. As a reminder, it is always a requirement to thoroughly clean the rotors with Acetone or denatured alcohol after using a rotor hone or bead-blasting. Reinstall de-glazed pads and allow 1-2 laps to bring up to operating temperature, the results should be most satisfying.
   

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Although all modern Ferodo Ltd friction formulations are non-asbestos, it is prudent and recommended to take adequate precautions while working with any manufacturers friction materials. Please observe the following:

1. Operate in a well ventilated area and avoid creating dust.
   
2. Machining (not required in proper application) should only be carried out using approved dust extraction equipment.
   
3. When fitting brake components, use appropriate dust extraction equipment or a damp cloth to remove dust.
   
4. Do not use an air hose or brush to remove dust.
   
5. Dampen dust, place it in a properly closed receptacle and dispose of safely.
   

________________________________________

Just as an FYI, I found the Braketech web site tech area to have a lot of valuable, additional information about this. Their URL is, http://www.braketech.com/tech.html

I hope that this reference page is helpful.

Best,

Dan

[HispanicSlammer]

Recently I found my self needing to select new brake pads for my bike so I opened the question up to the forum and, as usual, got a lot of interesting supplemental information about extra steps that people take when doing a brake job.

In the thread two post were made which I felt would be particularly helpful to anyone planning a brake job. I have included them here.

Post made by THX1139 on 4/24/07

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ROTOR PREP

IMHO prepping the rotors and maintaining the system has at least as much to do with good brakes as pad choice. When my pads are worn enough to replace, it's time for a caliper rebuild.

Not as big a job as it sounds; and if I don't have a hanging piston and the seals look good I don't buy a rebuild kit. Just carefully pluck the seals/O-rings with a wooden toothpick. Rubber gets cleaned with soap&water, everything else with alcohol.

I polish each of the pistons, mounting them on an expanding rubber mandrel that spins in my drill press. With careful application of some 1500 wet-or-dry they shine like mirrors.

Pistons, O-rings, seals, get reassembled with AGS Sil-Glyde while sliders/pins get synthetic moly caliper grease.

ALWAYS clean my discs with 220 folded in half around the friction ring and wash with acetone. Always hose down pads with brake cleaner, even brand new ones.

Then the master cylinder gets the same clean/polish/Sil-Glyde treatment.

Spending the extra effort really makes for a precise, needle-bearing-like feel at the lever; and so far I haven't felt the need for anything stronger than the stock Honda pads.

________________________________________

The following is a very helpful reference contributed by Gatekeeper on 4/23/07.

From http://www.braketech.com/tech/bedin.html

Racing Brake Pad | Bed-In Procedures

Racing is serious business. Virtually everyone involved with racing spends tremendous time, energy and money in the pursuit of checkered flag. So assuming you want the best from your brakes, please take the time to read and follow these simple procedures:

1. For best results, prepare the disc rotors by using a Rotor Hone (BT-RH10.0) or glass-beading the brake swept area. This is particularly important if you are switching from a sintered metal pad as the copper deposition layer burnished into the surface of the rotor can be a barrier to allowing a carbon/metallic pad from bedding-in properly. Maintain your rotors by rotor honing or glass-beading every time you replace your brake pads. On liquid cleaners; Acetone or denatured alcohol on a clean shop towel is recommended, Do not use an aerosol brake cleaner as many leave a residue that promotes brake pad glazing. Take this opportunity to check for fluid leaks. For best performance, we recommend changing your brake fluid every 2-3 events with a premium fluid (more frequently in humid climates).
   Please note: DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid is not recommended.
   
2. Heavy braking should be avoided until the new linings are fully seated across the entire mating surface. A visual inspection may be required. Scored discs will require substantially greater bed-in time, reduce overall stopping power and are potentially dangerous. We recommend replacing badly scored or distorted rotors with our advanced composition Ductile Iron or Stainless full-floaters.
   
3. Initially, the brakes should be used lightly (roughly 60-70% of normal) but frequently. As you feel the brakes come in, follow this with progressively harder braking to maximum pressure with momentary cool-down between applications. The goal here is to impart an even transfer film layer from the new friction material to the operating surface of the rotor. Do not try braking hard until they do and you are reasonably certain this is accomplished (usually 3-7 laps).
   
4. If a fall-off in performance is experienced due to heavy braking prior to the new pads being fully bed-in, it is important to allow the brakes to cool down before continuing. A "glazed" surface condition can usually be easily remedied by either utilizing the Rotor Hone or bead-blasting the brake swept area to the remove the burnished deposition layer left by the previous pads. Remove the glazed surface of the pads friction face, reinstall and repeat bed-in procedure.
   
5. CHRONIC GLAZING: Characterized by a very firm brake lever with very poor braking performance regardless how hard the lever is applied. Most motorcycle manufacturers utilize a heat-treated surface hardening process on their stainless steel rotors in an effort to help them survive with sintered metal pads. This sometimes creates a problem with semi-metallic compounds during bed-in. If glazing persists, glass beading of the brake swept area can eliminate the problem by thoroughly cleaning the surface and attenuating the heat-treatment with a more compatible shot-peened version. As a reminder, it is always a requirement to thoroughly clean the rotors with Acetone or denatured alcohol after using a rotor hone or bead-blasting. Reinstall de-glazed pads and allow 1-2 laps to bring up to operating temperature, the results should be most satisfying.
   

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Although all modern Ferodo Ltd friction formulations are non-asbestos, it is prudent and recommended to take adequate precautions while working with any manufacturers friction materials. Please observe the following:

1. Operate in a well ventilated area and avoid creating dust.
   
2. Machining (not required in proper application) should only be carried out using approved dust extraction equipment.
   
3. When fitting brake components, use appropriate dust extraction equipment or a damp cloth to remove dust.
   
4. Do not use an air hose or brush to remove dust.
   
5. Dampen dust, place it in a properly closed receptacle and dispose of safely.
   

________________________________________

Just as an FYI, I found the Braketech web site tech area to have a lot of valuable, additional information about this. Their URL is, http://www.braketech.com/tech.html

I hope that this reference page is helpful.

Best,

Dan