Jump to content

Dan

Member Contributer
  • Posts

    85
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dan

  1. Dan

    Flafman

    Photos of the original Flafman
  2. Dan

    originalflafman.jpg

    From the album: Flafman

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  3. Dan

    superflafman.jpg

    From the album: Flafman

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  4. Great show. I love it. This guy House is a real hoot. Best, Dan
  5. Recently I found my self needing to select new brake pads for my bike so I opened the question up to the forum and, as usual, got a lot of interesting supplemental information about extra steps that people take when doing a brake job. In the thread two post were made which I felt would be particularly helpful to anyone planning a brake job. I have included them here. Post made by THX1139 on 4/24/07 BRAKE SYSTEM AND ROTOR PREP IMHO prepping the rotors and maintaining the system has at least as much to do with good brakes as pad choice. When my pads are worn enough to replace, it's time for a caliper rebuild. Not as big a job as it sounds; and if I don't have a hanging piston and the seals look good I don't buy a rebuild kit. Just carefully pluck the seals/O-rings with a wooden toothpick. Rubber gets cleaned with soap&water, everything else with alcohol. I polish each of the pistons, mounting them on an expanding rubber mandrel that spins in my drill press. With careful application of some 1500 wet-or-dry they shine like mirrors. Pistons, O-rings, seals, get reassembled with AGS Sil-Glyde while sliders/pins get synthetic moly caliper grease. ALWAYS clean my discs with 220 folded in half around the friction ring and wash with acetone. Always hose down pads with brake cleaner, even brand new ones. Then the master cylinder gets the same clean/polish/Sil-Glyde treatment. Spending the extra effort really makes for a precise, needle-bearing-like feel at the lever; and so far I haven't felt the need for anything stronger than the stock Honda pads. ________________________________________ The following is a very helpful reference contributed by Gatekeeper on 4/23/07. From http://www.braketech.com/tech/bedin.html Racing Brake Pad | Bed-In Procedures Racing is serious business. Virtually everyone involved with racing spends tremendous time, energy and money in the pursuit of checkered flag. So assuming you want the best from your brakes, please take the time to read and follow these simple procedures: For best results, prepare the disc rotors by using a Rotor Hone (BT-RH10.0) or glass-beading the brake swept area. This is particularly important if you are switching from a sintered metal pad as the copper deposition layer burnished into the surface of the rotor can be a barrier to allowing a carbon/metallic pad from bedding-in properly. Maintain your rotors by rotor honing or glass-beading every time you replace your brake pads. On liquid cleaners; Acetone or denatured alcohol on a clean shop towel is recommended, Do not use an aerosol brake cleaner as many leave a residue that promotes brake pad glazing. Take this opportunity to check for fluid leaks. For best performance, we recommend changing your brake fluid every 2-3 events with a premium fluid (more frequently in humid climates). Please note: DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid is not recommended. Heavy braking should be avoided until the new linings are fully seated across the entire mating surface. A visual inspection may be required. Scored discs will require substantially greater bed-in time, reduce overall stopping power and are potentially dangerous. We recommend replacing badly scored or distorted rotors with our advanced composition Ductile Iron or Stainless full-floaters. Initially, the brakes should be used lightly (roughly 60-70% of normal) but frequently. As you feel the brakes come in, follow this with progressively harder braking to maximum pressure with momentary cool-down between applications. The goal here is to impart an even transfer film layer from the new friction material to the operating surface of the rotor. Do not try braking hard until they do and you are reasonably certain this is accomplished (usually 3-7 laps). If a fall-off in performance is experienced due to heavy braking prior to the new pads being fully bed-in, it is important to allow the brakes to cool down before continuing. A “glazed†surface condition can usually be easily remedied by either utilizing the Rotor Hone or bead-blasting the brake swept area to the remove the burnished deposition layer left by the previous pads. Remove the glazed surface of the pads friction face, reinstall and repeat bed-in procedure. CHRONIC GLAZING: Characterized by a very firm brake lever with very poor braking performance regardless how hard the lever is applied. Most motorcycle manufacturers utilize a heat-treated surface hardening process on their stainless steel rotors in an effort to help them survive with sintered metal pads. This sometimes creates a problem with semi-metallic compounds during bed-in. If glazing persists, glass beading of the brake swept area can eliminate the problem by thoroughly cleaning the surface and attenuating the heat-treatment with a more compatible shot-peened version. As a reminder, it is always a requirement to thoroughly clean the rotors with Acetone or denatured alcohol after using a rotor hone or bead-blasting. Reinstall de-glazed pads and allow 1-2 laps to bring up to operating temperature, the results should be most satisfying. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Although all modern Ferodo Ltd friction formulations are non-asbestos, it is prudent and recommended to take adequate precautions while working with any manufacturers friction materials. Please observe the following: Operate in a well ventilated area and avoid creating dust. Machining (not required in proper application) should only be carried out using approved dust extraction equipment. When fitting brake components, use appropriate dust extraction equipment or a damp cloth to remove dust. Do not use an air hose or brush to remove dust. Dampen dust, place it in a properly closed receptacle and dispose of safely. ________________________________________ Just as an FYI, I found the Braketech web site tech area to have a lot of valuable, additional information about this. Their URL is, http://www.braketech.com/tech.html I hope that this reference page is helpful. Best, Dan
  6. Dan

    My Past Sigs

    May 5-May 12 867-5309! Sing it with me. Just some random silliness. May 12- 01000100 01100001 01110100 01100001 01000100 01100001 01101110
  7. I just removed the stickers from my VFR. I've removed stickers before but never motorcycle stickers. These stickers have some real serious glue under them. In the process of figuring it out I tried a few different methods that had worked for me in the past but only one really worked. My guess is that if you've never removed motorcycle stickers before you could waste a good deal of time figuring it out (like I did) so I decided to write a How-To on it. (These steps are for the large stickers. Once these are done the smaller ones on the nose and tail will seem like a cake walk.) The short steps; 1. Cover floor. 2. Remove side sticker A. 3. Mask below sticker A. 4. Spray Goo-Gone and allow it to soak in. 5. Remove side sticker B. 6. Mask below sticker B. 7. Spray Goo-Gone and allow to soak in. 8. Return to side A and remove sticker glue w. credit card. 9. Do the same for side B. 10. Wax and polish side A and B. The expanded steps; The way I did it was with a blow drier, some Goo-Gone, painters tape, a credit card, a clean rag, newspaper and auto wax. To remove the stickers I used the blow drier to soften them up and separate them from the glue backing. They came right off. Note this!... It's easier to remove the stickers from the end of the words back. Pull the lower descender of the "R" in "VFR" back to where it meets with the rounded part of the "R." Next, do the rounded part of the "R" to the same point. Finally, work the entire sticker from the end of it to the beginning. If you take your time and use the right amount of heat you should be able to remove the entire sticker (without tearing it) with one long pull. Once the sticker is off the work starts. The glue is dark and kind of hard. It's also quite impermeable. First, put some newspaper down under your bike. Since Goo-Gone can leave a mild haze I decided to mask off below the sticker and drape a piece of plastic off the part of the fairing below the sticker prior to spraying so as to prevent run-off on to the paint. Both of these tips will make cleanup a lot easier. Spray the Goo-Gone on it and allow it to soak in. Spray enough so as to see it setting on top of the sticker. The Goo-Gone should sit on there for around 10 minutes. It will minimize the elbow grease you'll need but not eliminate it. You can go start the other sticker while it's soaking. After the soak time it's time to go at it with your credit card. I put a slight bend in the card and basically wiped away the Goo-Gone and glue in long, narrow strips starting at one end of the top of the glue spot and going all the way to the other end. Start working from across the top and work your way down. It makes for less mess and allows any excess Goo-Gone to move down to the areas of the glue that you are about to remove. As you're doing it don't get too carried away with perfection. You'll be able to go back and wipe away any spots you missed as you clean up. Also, there is a certain angle and bend to hold the card. It's hard to describe but you'll have plenty of time to figure it out and when you do you'll know it. You'll just be able to remove a lot of glue in one long swipe. As you remove your stripes of glue take the time to spray extra Goo-Gone on it. Every now and then you'll want to wipe the credit card clean, too. Once you're done give the entire area a good, cleansing wipe to make sure that you're clean of all glue. Next, do the other side. Your last step should be to wax and polish the areas to eliminate any potential for haze left from the Goo-Gone and to be absolutely sure that all of the glue is gone. I hope this helps. :) Best, Dan
  8. Dan

    My Past Sigs

    Mar 18.-Apr. 28. No one will respect you if you don't respect yourself! - just some motivational stuff I heard. :) April 28-May 5. A/k/a Evil Dan You had to be on the right threads at the right time to get this one.
  9. Dan

    Miscellaneous Pics

    Stuff
  10. Dan

    Evil Dan

    From the album: Miscellaneous Pics

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  11. Dan

    1k

    Well, I hit 1K posts recently. I don't know exactly when but it happened kinda fast. It's neat to be in the top 45 of all posters when there are about 10,000 users here. I don't think I'll ever make it to the the top 10. We've got some people here who "post whore" a lot more than I do. It's been a fun ride up to 1K. I've gotten to know a lot of you and ride with a few of you, too. This is a great bunch. In fact, I think that this forum has, overall, the most pleasant demeanor of many of the forums that I've been on. All of that is because of you. It looks like I'll be making T-mac this year. I can't wait. It'll be good to meet so many of you in one place, at one time and to ride the Dragon and other areas with you. Thanks to all of you for making this such a fun time. I'm looking forward to my next 1K in posts. (I hope that you are, too.) Best, Dan
  12. Dan

    Rf1000

    From the album: Miscellaneous Pics

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  13. Dan

    My Past Sigs

    From Mar. 1 - Mar. 18. "All people are self made...only successful people admit it!" Something that I heard during a seminar.
  14. Dan

    Flaf

    Well, thanks to the "Super" mod you should be able to do so with out worrying about having to sign the inside. :) Best, Dan
  15. Dan

    Winter VFR

    Feb. 28, 2007
  16. Dan

    0228071802b.jpg

    From the album: Winter VFR

  17. Dan

    Flaf

    I appreciate ALL of the replies so far. This reply made me spew the nut mix that I was eating. OMFG!!!! I guess if we figured out what you did to it in the bathroom we'd no longer be bothered by the oil stains on it, would we? :lol: Best, Dan PS: thanks to all for your comments so far.
  18. Dan

    FLAF Hug

    Happiness and silliness
  19. Dan

    VFR Silliness

    From the album: FLAF Hug

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  20. Dan

    Flaf

    Maybe I am naive, dumb or just misread people. I don't think so but it seems that with the Flaf I have inadvertently bothered some. When I first found VFRD I was about as enthused as anyone could be. I was a member here before I found my Y2K VFR. I shared the entire experience with all who were here. Anyone will tell you that my enthusiasm for the bike and this group was nothing short of unbridled. When I finally found out about the Flaf I thought it was the coolest idea since the VFR. I thought, "Wow! What uber creative genius came up with this idea, misspelling and all?" Being someone who has a lot of experience organizing runs I simply couldn't wait to for the Flaf to get close enough for me to use it as the reason for my first organized run. When given the chance to pick it up I rode 180 miles, one way on a Sunday to do so. (My wife thought I was a kook but I was so enthused by all of this that I didn't even give two thoughts to it.) Prior to actually getting the Flaf I wondered why there weren't more than one. I wondered this because folks were always bringing up how there was so little room left on it and because it seemed that the world of VFRdom is large enough to dictate more than one Flaf. I learned that multiple Flafs had been discussed before and decided against. Ok, fine. No problem. Then, when I got the Flaf I saw what people meant about the crowding of it. And the solution was to sign the inside. To me, signing the inside just didn't feel right. Then, I had an idea. Why not add some real estate to it so that more folks can have ample room to sign it? In doing so, we could get a lot more milage out of it. And so, I did. Since the summer I have picked up comments, some subtle and others not so subtle, that the change wasn't appreciated. I've read, "Don't let it go back to New England" and "Does it still have the cape attached :unsure: ?" I don't understand it. When I did what I did I thought that I was acting in the spirit of VFRd and the Flafl. Others had modified the Flaf in the past with patches. I just felt that more real esate for signatures was needed so I tweaked it with a cape. I never imagined that I would be breaking some unwritten rule about it. I was just trying to add to the fun. When we had our two Flaf runs here in New England the gang seemed to get a real kick out of the modifications. We had a blast with it. It was just us, our VFRs, the Flaf and good times (oh, and a very healthy dose of silliness.) VFR Silliness If what I did was wrong, I'm sorry. I had no idea that it would be at the time. Feel free to take the cape off if it hasn't already been done. But please, be respectful enough to the people who have signed the cape to let them know that they now need to resign the Flaf. I had no intent to desecrate the Flaf or insult anyone else. I was simply trying to add to the fun in a new and creative way. I never thought it would result in any of these thoughts and feelings. I guess I wasn't sensitive enough to the history of the VFRd and the Flaf to realize that I, as a relative newcomer, probably was crossing a line to modify the Flaf as I did. Since day one I have enjoyed VFRd immensely. I think I became a contributing member within a week of opening my account. I've created some great relationships with people here and I have a lot of respect for this group. My enhthusiasm remains very high to this day as is evidenced by the NE runs that are already planned. Again, if my adding to the Flaf was a no-no I'm sorry. Maybe I was overly enthusiastic and took it to a level that surprised some. I don't know what else to say. My hope is that those of you who were upset by this action will value an overly enthusiastic member enough to overlook a moment of oversight or naivety. I felt it would be wise to break this out in the open. I'm hopeful that with this statment people will understand better what the motives were and that I was, in no way, trying to upset the apple cart or insult anyone. Thanks for reading. Best, Dan
  21. Dan

    My Past Sigs

    New sig today... From Feb. 14, "Have you ever had a run-in with a ukulele?" When I was 10 years old I was visiting my next door neighbor. His name was Carl Zeltner and was having his retirement party. Anyway, there was a guy there (drunk) with a ukulele and he sung "Oh Danny Boy." This was my first run-in with a ukulele and I have never forgotten it. If you ever had a run-in with a ukulele, too, you'll never forget it. :)
  22. Dan

    My Past Sigs

    An explanation to some of my unorthodox sig lines. Peacekeeper My sig from the start There is no explanation needed for this. I like to keep the peace. That's it. Likes to calmari from time to time. My sig from Jan 1, 07. Calamari is fried squid. Squids like to drive fast on public roads. Figure the rest out yourself. blucereelocks My sig from Jan 31.. When translated says, "Bruce Lee Rocks." It's a play on the way our language is often times shredded. My martini is half drunk. Me? I'm half sober. My sig from Feb 1. My wife and I were drinking Martinis and talking about my lack of sobriety on that particular evening. This statement came forth and proved to be an interestin play on words so, I kept it. NOT Connectile disfunctioned. From Feb 4. I saw the Superbowl commercial and am happy with my wireless broadband connection (been a VZW wireless broadband customer sine 1/06. If you need more info than that I suggest you Google it. Pete moss. Yummy, yummy pete moss. From Feb 8. Homage to Johnny Red.
  23. Dan

    Goals

    Martinka, I'm so glad I know you. I read that entire blog entry with your voice in my head and began laughing as soon as I read the "I want to die!" line. I'm sure that if you made that statement during a VFR run food stop we'd all be falling out of our chairs. Best, Dan
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.