Bad Ignition Switch?

[Guest martij8]

Well, here we go again. I've had an electrical bug on my 98 VFR for a while now, and it seems to be back in full force. Replaced < 1 yr: starter solinoid, r/r, stator, battery, and could never get 14.5 volts at 5000 rpm.

However, I went out ride it and this is what happened: Turned key to on, fuel pump primed in gas tank, started up no problem. Brought rpms up to 1500 to warm it up. It ran fine for about 1 minute as I was getting ready and the 'CLICK' and it went completely dead.

Now, when I turn the key to 'ON', no pump priming happens and when I hit the starter button, the clock goes out and nothing happens, completely dead. Clock remains out until key is turned to 'OFF' position.

Battery tests at 12.5 volts resting, checked fuses; main, starter solinoid, 6 fuse block for fuel pump, dash, etc and all are fine.

My only thought is could it be a bad ignition switch? Seems like the only thing I didn't replace. I don't know what I'm doing, so does this sound symtomatic of a bad ignition switch? Anybody seen this before?

Thanks,

Jim

[superfuzz]

Oh man! The same thing happened to me today. I've never had any problems with my bike and today I wheel it out to warm up, turn on the ignition and....nothing. Now, when I turn on the ignition it does one of two things; One, the idiots lights come on very dim and when I hit start everything goes out and relays go click click click or Two, the idiot lights come on normal, fuel pump primes and when i hit start-"CLICK" and everything goes out.

Help!!!!

[Guest]

This happened to me once, and it's because I didn't tighten the connections at the battery.... :P

[CRFJOHN]

My local Honda Dealer has a parts guy that knows volumes about all Honda bikes and espically VFRs, He told me that VFRs are very prone to that switch failing. Mostly at over 20K miles but could happen earlier.

[IntAceptor]

It could be a total failure of the battery's internal connection. You may still read voltage on the meter because the meter is very high impedance and does not put any load condition on the battery like a lamp would.

The voltage is fed through the electrolyte even though the mechanical connection MAY be gone.

The clock is a low enough drag on the battery that it may stay on but as soon as you turn on the key and there are power demands on the open circuit battery, everything quits.

This happened to me once 750 miles from home and I was able to shag a Sears battery that saved the day.

You can use jumpers from your car battery to see if this is the case. If you turn on the key and everything lights up it is most likely the bike battery gone bad but I would not try starting the bike with the car battery.

[Misspent Youth]

It could be a total failure of the battery's internal connection. You may still read voltage on the meter because the meter is very high impedance and does not put any load condition on the battery like a lamp would.

The voltage is fed through the electrolyte even though the mechanical connection MAY be gone.

The clock is a low enough drag on the battery that it may stay on but as soon as you turn on the key and there are power demands on the open circuit battery, everything quits.

This happened to me once 750 miles from home and I was able to shag a Sears battery that saved the day.

You can use jumpers from your car battery to see if this is the case. If you turn on the key and everything lights up it is most likely the bike battery gone bad but I would not try starting the bike with the car battery.

This is exactly the way Yuasa batteries have been known to fail.