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Penske 2 way


dukeracr

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Does anyone know if you can alter the ride height when the shock is mounted on the bike?

Thanks

8900 series........no

factory ride height is .470' or 12mm. this is the exposed thread area of the bottom of the shock. to change length you must disconnect the bottom of the shock to screw the end in or out to change adjustment. the nut you see on the treaded shaft area is a lock nut only.

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8900 series........no

factory ride height is .470' or 12mm. this is the exposed thread area of the bottom of the shock. to change length you must disconnect the bottom of the shock to screw the end in or out to change adjustment. the nut you see on the treaded shaft area is a lock nut only.

Oh, yeah, you're right about that, fer sher. It's not a quickie adjustment. Gotta undo the bottom of the shock, crank the adjuster, etc. Yep.

But...it IS adjustable whilst still on the bike. Fingers get greasy, tho.

Since my shock was originally for a 954, I had to make a top mount extension, as has been documented here many times. So, when I set up my Penske, I made the extension so that I had 3mm of thread showing, giving me 9mm of thread for raising the ride height, and 3m of lowering the height, if I wanted to. But since I raised my forks, I was basically shooting to hit stock ride height with my extension. I got it by 1mm or so, IIRC.

gallery_4707_1061_1354762.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Shock Bracket Extension Thingy

gallery_4707_1061_560251.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Stock Shock vs. 954 Penske w/ Bracket Extension

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oh yeah, the important part! CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT EXCEED THIS LENGTH!!

it would appear by the pic, that the threaded rod is not long enough to go past this setting. (rod could be ripped uot from lack of installed threads.

as trace said, raising the front forks up to 10mm can make a HUGE difference! i have 1.05 fork springs for my weight and the forks are up by 5mm.

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Oh yeah, the important part! CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT EXCEED THIS LENGTH!!

it would appear by the pic, that the threaded rod is not long enough to go past this setting. (rod could be ripped uot from lack of installed threads.)

Yep. But, I'm thinking that if a fella went as far as 14mm, mayhem would not result unless you're doing motocross jumps on your VFR and letting the arm drop fully and suddenly all the time to snatch that adjust rod outta those threads! It's pretty beefy stuff on that shock.

Anyway, 12-14mm of total adjustment is a bunch. When we shimmed Axman's shock bracket a mere 4mm, the arse-end of the bike went up a lot, like just over 2 inches, IIRC.

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Thanks guys, you answered my question. I'd much rather raise the rear than drop the forks at this point, for better clearance. I think I'm going to keep the forks stock height and raise the rear 5mm, what do you think? Now I don't want to have to keep adjusting the rear ride height so is this about where I need to be with revalved and sprung forks?

Rich A

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8900 series........no

factory ride height is .470' or 12mm. this is the exposed thread area of the bottom of the shock. to change length you must disconnect the bottom of the shock to screw the end in or out to change adjustment. the nut you see on the treaded shaft area is a lock nut only.

8900 series, yes. The lower nut is the locknut, the wrenching flats just above locknut is the adjustment. The internals will spin just fine and do no damage. Do not exceed 12mm from bottom of locknut to area just below threads (a thin machined area where the eyelet starts). I have the 8900 manual right in front of me, plus I adjusted the ride height of an FZ1 the same way, no problems. Look at the posted picture of the Penske and you will see the locknut and adjustment nut (just below the red clicker adjuster).

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