2007 Vtec starting problems

[TomVfr]

Small update.

 

Fitted a new clamp around the exhaust join pipes.

 

Started Bike with tank lifted. It would not make the clicking/pop sound.

So checked all the hoses and electrical connections associated with the airbox. No problems there that I could see.

 

Went for a ride, could hear the click/pop sound within 5 mins when riding slow and  giving slow smooth throttle. 

Did another 40 miles, bike performed well. Down to 3 bars on the petrol gauge.

 

So now I may try disconnecting the pair connector - is it the larger grey at the rear of the air box or the smaller whiter connector that's also connected to the grey connector?

 

[Grum]

2 hours ago, TomVfr said:

So now I may try disconnecting the pair connector - is it the larger grey at the rear of the air box or the smaller whiter connector that's also connected to the grey connector?

Hi Tom.

 

"is it the larger grey at the rear of the air box or the smaller whiter connector that's also connected to the grey connector?" ??????

 

PAIR Valve - See the Green Arrow. Follow its wire to a 2P connector which you should be able to unplug.

Note that the wire colours is also a match for the PAIR Valve a Green and an Orange, as per your picture, and wiring diagram!

 

[TomVfr]

That's excellent thanks, will check tomorrow. I was talking about the grey connector in a similar place to your green arrow and is always attached to the air box

[Grum]

37 minutes ago, TomVfr said:

That's excellent thanks, will check tomorrow. I was talking about the grey connector in a similar place to your green arrow and is always attached to the air box

Here's another good graphic of the PAIR Valve and the location of the 2P connector you'll need to unplug.

- Note by unplugging it you won't force a DTC, so No Fi Fault light indication for it.

[TomVfr]

Hi Grum

Just to confirm on my 2007 bike, the Pair Solenoid Valve 2P Natural Connector is white and the other block connected and just above it which clips on to the rear of the airbox and has a small rubber pipe connected to the bottom of it is grey (unlabeled on the diagram above).

 

Disconnected the Pair Solenoid Valve 2P Natural Connector and the clicking noise is no more. Bike still runs with no noticable difference in performance. On initial start up it instantly went to 2k revs, which is different to the previous start ups, when used to take 10 secs. Coincidence or warmer weather or pair disconnection caused this?

 

I filled up with petrol to the top, touching rim, at the petrol station and within 1 mile it was already down a bar on the gauge, I noticed some markings on the float in the tank but is this adjustable at all or should I just leave it. I remember on my old bike always trying to get 100miles before hitting half a tank which I think won't be possible on this. 

 

Should I just leave the pair connector disconnected now?

[Grum]

4 hours ago, TomVfr said:

Just to confirm on my 2007 bike, the Pair Solenoid Valve 2P Natural Connector is white and the other block connected and just above it which clips on to the rear of the airbox and has a small rubber pipe connected to the bottom of it is grey (unlabeled on the diagram above).

???? OK so you located the 2P Pair Valve connector. Then I think you are referring to the MAP Sensor which most definitely has its own vaccum hose!

 

4 hours ago, TomVfr said:

Disconnected the Pair Solenoid Valve 2P Natural Connector and the clicking noise is no more. Bike still runs with no noticable difference in performance. On initial start up it instantly went to 2k revs, which is different to the previous start ups, when used to take 10 secs. Coincidence or warmer weather or pair disconnection caused this?

Idle speed at start up is certainly effected by amibient temp, there can be quite a difference between cold start on a cold day, and cold start on a hot day. Glad you located the cause of the clicking noise. Pair System operational or not has no effect on performance, it's all about emissions.

4 hours ago, TomVfr said:

I filled up with petrol to the top, touching rim, at the petrol station and within 1 mile it was already down a bar on the gauge, I noticed some markings on the float in the tank but is this adjustable at all or should I just leave it. I remember on my old bike always trying to get 100miles before hitting half a tank which I think won't be possible on this. 

Sounds like the float may be a little out of wack. Up to you wether you feel the need to slightly bend the float shaft to compensate. Have you done any real economy runs? Fill to a known point eg fill rim go for a long ride refill to the same point, note the fuel quantity then do the sums.

4 hours ago, TomVfr said:

Should I just leave the pair connector disconnected now?

Do some forum searching on Pair Valve removal, you could go down that path, or replace the valve, or leave as is, as there is no performance degradation with or without the system, whether it upsets the O2 sensors and A/F ratio calculations I'm not too sure. I've never bothered disabling the system.