TomVfr

Hi Grum Just to confirm on my 2007 bike, the Pair Solenoid Valve 2P Natural Connector is white and the other block connected and just above it which clips on to the rear of the airbox and has a small rubber pipe connected to the bottom of it is grey (unlabeled on the diagram above). Disconnected the Pair Solenoid Valve 2P Natural Connector and the clicking noise is no more. Bike still runs with no noticable difference in performance. On initial start up it instantly went to 2k revs, which is different to the previous start ups, when used to take 10 secs. Coincidence or warmer weather or pair disconnection caused this? I filled up with petrol to the top, touching rim, at the petrol station and within 1 mile it was already down a bar on the gauge, I noticed some markings on the float in the tank but is this adjustable at all or should I just leave it. I remember on my old bike always trying to get 100miles before hitting half a tank which I think won't be possible on this. Should I just leave the pair connector disconnected now?

That's excellent thanks, will check tomorrow. I was talking about the grey connector in a similar place to your green arrow and is always attached to the air box

Small update. Fitted a new clamp around the exhaust join pipes. Started Bike with tank lifted. It would not make the clicking/pop sound. So checked all the hoses and electrical connections associated with the airbox. No problems there that I could see. Went for a ride, could hear the click/pop sound within 5 mins when riding slow and giving slow smooth throttle. Did another 40 miles, bike performed well. Down to 3 bars on the petrol gauge. So now I may try disconnecting the pair connector - is it the larger grey at the rear of the air box or the smaller whiter connector that's also connected to the grey connector?

Hi Presson from memory I used to get around 180 miles to a tank on my 2002, so to only get 44 miles from half a tank on this first ride is a bit concerning. I opened the fuel cap and the petrol was around 3 inches below the opening height so it looks like the dial being at 4 of 8 bars (half full) should be right. Obviously I’ll need to do some longer trips to see how the fuel consumption is going. Bike doesn’t smell like it’s running rich. the air box etc is all standard, no flapper mod and no pair mod, I’ve had the airbox on and off a few times while doing the works listed in the posts above so maybe there’s a hose I’ve not reconnected right that’s causing the popping/click sound? the oil is just what came in the bike, but service history shows it was changed 3k miles ago, 9 months ago. I will change the oil and filter next week now I know the bike has no major mechanical problems having ridden it

I could hear it when riding with visor open at 5mph and gently accelerating too 20240503_200255~2.mp4

Finally got out on the bike! Had been sat for 13 days I think, it started first time, idles at 1100 for around 10 seconds, then goes up to 2000 for around 4 mins before settling at 1100. So not sure if the wax unit should be a bit more quicker to raise the revs to 2000 than the 10 seconds it takes. On the ride everything seemed to work well, remember this was my first ride out on it. Could potentially be using too much fuel, did 44 miles and the tank went from an indicated 7/8 down to half. The tank was full (not brimmed) at the start of the ride. The exhaust connection clamp which is down near the bottom of the rear wheel and center stand stop, broke, was rusty, so need to find a replacement, looks to be around 60mm diameter but will measure properly once engine cooled. Also have a weird popping/click sound like when you click your tongue in your mouth to make an echo that happens when revving at low revs, whether pulling off in gear, or in neutral stood still. Will try to attach video taken. Is it some sort of air valve or vacuum pipe opening and closing? Oil level once back was on the high side and same brown colour, which I find surprising after supposedly only 3k miles. No white substance as it's all been mixed thru but will check tomorrow. Clutch on start up is still rattly I assume until oil has worked its way around the engine. Noise goes when pulling clutch lever in. So overall, glad it ran, but have a few niggles to look into.

The idle is pretty steady at 1200rpm once warmed up which I'd estimate takes around 4 minutes. On the previous photo it does look like the oil level viewing glass has been spray painted and poorly masked off, however this was just road dirt that I hadn't cleaned. I attach a photo of the oil level from this evening, a day later, cold engine, looks healthier than the previous photo from when the bike was running. Coolant level on the tank on the left hand side is in the middle of the min and max markings. I've refitted the fairings now so if the weather holds out I'll take the bike out for a good ride this weekend and report back 🤞

Ok, so the red and blue circled areas have been cleaned up with wd40 and a toothbrush. As both areas do move at the same time when you extend the wax unit. Even with wd40 on the shafts and moving parts they still make a squeaking noise when moving them with my fingers. I refitted the airbox etc and started up, the engine sat at 1k revs for around 10 seconds before going up to 2k revs so this is an improvement and an acceptable amount of time for the wax unit to react? Onto my next concern, the oil in the viewing window. After running the bike up to 105 and the fans coming on, the attached photo is how the oil looks, there's a white layer on top of the brown oil at the bottom. According to the service receipts, this oil and filter was changed 9 months, 3000 miles ago. Does this white layer on top of the oil point to there being a broken water pump seal or something or should I get the bike out for a proper ride and see how the oil is afterwards once it's all been mixed and thru the filter properly?

Hi Presson, thanks very much, will look into that and give the parts a good clean and some lubricant

Hi Grum thanks very much for the info. I think that every time the engine has started, it has been run til warm. The other times it didn’t start when I first got the bike maybe it did stay flooded so the “flooded start procedure” would have been good to know as I was opening the throttle at the same time as cranking to try and get it started and stay running. Well onto latest developments, 2 days after the previous efforts, I press the starter and it fires up easily first try. Great! I had my DIY injectors cleaning kit ready so still decide to take them out and spray thru as per the YouTube video above. I didn’t notice any of the injectors being blocked, they all blasted out a clean spread of the cleaning fluid, although it was quite a precarious set up having to press the cleaner nozzle, pressurise the contraption, get power to the injector without too much pressure blowing off the rubber valve connection. Re-installed injectors, air box. Bike started up again no effort. Left the bike to sit for another 2 days, it was 7*C so a little cool. Fired up first press again. It sat at low revs under 1k for about 30 secs then rose to 2.2k for 2 minutes before settling back down to 1.2k. I’m wondering if the delay in the bike being at under 1k at the very start to going up to 2.2k is something to be looked at or not? It’s part of the wax starter part? On the attached photo I noticed on a YouTube video that these actually move (to control the amount of air?) so maybe mine need cleaning all the muck off them? I think the red area circles is related to the wax device? And what’s the best way to clean this whole area as it’s pretty grimey compared to other VFR photos I’ve seen? Other than that, the clutch seems very rattley (compared to my previous VFR VTEC), when the bike is sat in neutral warming up. The noise goes away when the clutch is pulled in, and sometimes stays away, other times comes back. Is this something that can be adjusted or a sign of it needing some maintenance? I remember some idle clutch noise on my older VFR but it was relatively quiet. The new battery was delivered, but seems like the bike no longer has those initial starting problems, so I won’t install the new battery yet. I will have to take the bike out on some test rides but for now I’m happy enough that it at least starts 😃 Is there any diagnosis (so-far) for what my non-starting problem was? I hope it was down to the bike having been stood over the winter.

So to update- With the airbox off I thought to try a blast of Easy Start in each of the air ports, the bike started straight away and ticked over smoothly. I then installed the air box, bolted down the petrol tank and went for a local ride of 4 miles as didn’t want to go too far away in case of any problems- this was the first time I’d ever ridden this bike and it ran well, vtec worked- much softer than my 2002 was. With the engine warm the bike would start on first press no problems. I attempted to clear the error codes. Still get a solid red light with the jumper lead in. But flashes 1 & 9 are gone. So 2 days later- With the air temperature at a cool 6*C, I try to start, turns over, won't stay running for more than 5 seconds. Spray Easy Start into the airbox where the flap is open but still won't start. Go back an hour later, started 1st time. Sat at low revs 1100 for 30 secs. Then picked up to 2k. Warmed up, levelled off back to 1100 tick over. Stop and starts fine when engine warm. I have replaced the starter solenoid red connector block which had melted on the red wire and replaced the red wire female connector. And have made the ‘home-made’ pressurised injector cleaner with 9v battery and tyre valve (like in the YouTube video I posted above) so that the injectors can be looked at next. Part of me thinks to just order a new battery in case I’m getting a weak spark but my results are still 12.5v fully off, 11.9v with ignition on, between 10.5-11.5v when pressing the starter, 13.9v when engine is running.

Hi Skids, thanks for the kind offer, I’m up in Aberdeenshire so around 500 miles away unfortunately!

Hi Terry, thank you for your help and clarification on the shorter non-adjustable starter valve 👍 in looking up about the injectors removal, checking for leakage and cleaning, I have found these videos to be helpful-

Hi Grum, thank you so much for your advice! I’ve noticed you’re the go-to expert for problem solving here 👍 to update- i took off the airbox, inside in the rear right side there was some white blobs coming from the larger pipe off the top of the engine, and spray too. Please see photo. Is this of concern? I removed the vacuum pipe from the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it was dry as per photo. I also turned on the ignition, the fuel pump made the priming sound, no fuel came out of the Fuel Pressure Regulator so is it safe to say that the diaphragm is intact and not the problem? Unless there is another hose to check? I did the jumper fault codes and got error flashes of 1 & 9 - as the airbox is off. Also attached is a photo of an extra red wire from the battery, think it goes to a red and white(?) wire near to the starter solenoid. Has a 30 amp small fuse in-line- any ideas why this is here? As for the adjustment screws (see photo) I noticed that the front right adjuster screw is smaller than the other 3- has it been broken or is this correct? I don’t have a 4 way vacuum balancing tool to make any adjustments here so won’t be doing anything with them. They are for ensuring that all four get equal amounts of fuel right? Tomorrow I plan to attempt to remove the fuel rail, remove the injectors and blow carb cleaner thru them. With the injectors - how do I see if they are leaking- how do I check for a leak, is it a broken o ring seal or do they crack or something?

Hi everyone, recently joined the forum and finding reading through the threads is greatly improving my knowledge about VFR problems and how to go about solving them 👍 I owned a 2002 vtec previously which was in excellent condition, I upgraded the R/R to a mosfet, and the bike ran great, regret selling it now. So, onto my current problem and hopefully some of you helpful members can guide me gently through the process of getting this bike running nicely. Info- Bike 2007 non abs, UK model Bought recently so unknown history of any issues. Mileage 35k Had a big service last July - valve clearances, throttle bodies sync, new spark plugs, new air filter, oil, filter, throttle cables, coolant. Since that service it has covered around 3K miles (not by me). Not sure if bike has been sitting but the dealer did say to come for a test ride so I assume it was in running condition while at their shop. Has had a replacement Reg/rec at some point looking at the newish condition of the yellow and red/ green wiring and connector blocks coming off the R/R. Has a Heal Tech gear indicator. Got the bike at a low price due to it being poor cosmetically (red faded paintwork) but I bought it due to it having the recent big service and seeming like a good value buy. Bike was delivered to me. Pressing the starter button the bike really, really struggled to get started, had to give it some throttle to get it going, was mis firing on a cylinder, after 30 secs of running it then fired on all fours, and then as the engine warmed the revs settled and I let it run for 10/15 mins to get it up to temp and see if the fans would start- they did. Throttle response seemed fine but overall a very rough start compared to how my 2002 used to start up. Switched off engine. Press starter, starts first time. 3 days later, try to start, engine cranks over but just will not start up. Fuel pump primes. Smells rich. 3 day later again, charge battery over night, still won’t start. Check battery voltage 12.5v off. 12v with ignition and lights on. 10.5v-11.5v when pressing starter button. Plugged in service jumper Got these flashes- 1 2 9 I assume that these stored faults were from when the bike was serviced last year. Cleared/reset faults. Now get a solid red light with jumper cable in - I am going to try and reset the faults again later today, see if it remains / disconnect a different sensor to get a different fault. No jumper lead - FI light turns on at ignition then off after fuel pumped Took off fairings, cleaned connector blocks with spray and toothbrush. Orange block with all the green ground above the blue and grey blocks top left seemed clean - is there another of these ground blocks on my 2007 harness to check? Above the chain guard? The red starter solenoid cover, red wire has been hot at some point and melted a small hole. Have cleaned and refitted for now. And ordered a replacement red cover and the female connectors. Removed all spark plugs, dark and wet, Cleaned, checked for spark holding against metal part- good spark. Hinged up fuel tank- difficult as dealer put a full tank of fuel in. Visually checked air box and fuel hoses, all look ok and to be standard - no pair delete, snorkel present. Checked air filter, looks ok, but in the air box rear right there is some fluids that have sprayed in there. Tried to start- managed to get it firing for about 10 seconds with throttle but that was all. After several attempts at starting the battery then just loses its “umph” and the dash starts to flash off. I know I shouldn’t need to use any throttle to get it to start, and i’m left with a smell of petrol, although none ever dripping on the floor. Next I plan to look at the fuel injectors, take them off, spray thru with carb cleaner. I saw on YouTube a mechanic using a small 9v battery to test they click open-do this as well? Please advise what else I should be looking into 😇 I’m not a mechanic but just trying to work through this methodically. Is it worth buying a new battery now? I live in a rural area so not sure about getting it load checked anywhere local. I’ll try taking some photo to liven up this thread too! Hope you all have an excellent weekend! 🏍️💨