Steering stem adjusting nut

[Yahya]

I just read the VFR1200F 2010 service manual, looks like I have to support the front-end of bike before removing the top bridge. I only want to tighten the steering stem adjusting nut. Is it possible to remove the top bridge while on side stand only?

 

I don't have center stand nor jacks. Looks like center stand for the bike is a good investment though.

[Terry]

All the weight of the bike will be supported through the bottom triple in any case, so I see no reason not to remove the top clamp while on the sidestand. However...it is hard to judge the steering bearing friction unless the front wheel is off the ground. Can you borrow a jack out of a car and lift perhap under the front of the engine case right side to get the wheel airborne?

[Yahya]

Glad to hear that, thanks. 

 

I afraid not, but I might have access to torque wrenches and the steering stem adjusting nut socket. Is setting it to the correct torque value is sufficient?

[Terry]

If you were looking to take some play out of the bearing, then my inclination would be to tighten the bearing by hand until it starts to build up friction, then back it off until it frees up. But to do that you need to suspend the front end; from reading previous Honda manuals they do say to use a torque wrench but then usually add that you do a steering force check to make sure the bearing is moving freely. 

 

 

I can say from previous experience that an over-tightened bearing makes for an interesting experience as the bike loses that easy self-steering ability, and straight line and cornering move from analogue to digital...

[Yahya]

On 12/22/2023 at 1:47 AM, Terry said:

If you were looking to take some play out of the bearing, then my inclination would be to tighten the bearing by hand until it starts to build up friction, then back it off until it frees up. But to do that you need to suspend the front end; from reading previous Honda manuals they do say to use a torque wrench but then usually add that you do a steering force check to make sure the bearing is moving freely. 

 

 

I can say from previous experience that an over-tightened bearing makes for an interesting experience as the bike loses that easy self-steering ability, and straight line and cornering move from analogue to digital...

Thanks for pin-pointing that. Currently my steering stem adjusting nut is not tight at all. I think I am going to collect some wooden blocks and make some kind of stands from that, see if I can securely support the front wheel.

[Terry]

The actual torque on the adjusting nut will differ whether you have the original bearing (which I assume is a ball-type) or aftermarket tapered rollers. The latter hardly need much more than finger tight. 

[Yahya]

On 12/24/2023 at 1:27 AM, Terry said:

The actual torque on the adjusting nut will differ whether you have the original bearing (which I assume is a ball-type) or aftermarket tapered rollers. The latter hardly need much more than finger tight. 

Took off steering stem nut and tried to take off the top bridge, but it felt like the front wheel should be off the ground so that the forks can move freely a bit, not holding the top bridge. To conclude, I failed to do that on side stand.

In the end I just tapped the steering stem adjusting nut from the exposed sides using a metal rod and a hammer, managed to do one-third clockwise-turn. I wonder what I broke, the steering stem lock washer inner side? It seems the outer side was just following the steering stem adjusting nut.

Overall, I am happy with the result though, feels like the bearing still okay until next replacement. Steering feels a bit tighter than before, but cornering still analogue.