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CRY FOR HELP! Bike only sparking on cylinder #2. Electrical?


TdotVFR800

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Praying to God someone can help me here or has had a similar issue. I'm day 6 into this and about to shoot myself 🫡

 

Bike is only sparking at cylinder 2. I thought I had it figured out earlier on day 5 as I was pulling on the main harness on the left side of the bike under where the throttle cable hooks up too. The bike fired up on all 4 cylinders! Then as soon as I let go of the harness the bike would die again. I'm still getting codes 23 and 24 for O2 sensor heater circuit.

 

Safe to say the issue must be in the harness somewhere near the left side of the bike. The broken wire maybe related to O2 sensors and ignition pulse generator?

 

There's a ground connector there wrapped under the tape that I suspected to be the culprit. I redid the grounds there with a terminal block and wired it directly to the frame. I really thought that was going to be the issue. I plugged everything back in to start the bike and it's still running on cylinder 2 only!

 

I get all the frame grounds on the ECU connector and they tested good. Does anybody know on grey ECU connector pin b16 labeled as a common return for a bunch of sensors (green & orange) is suppose to have continuity at the ECU connector?! Because that I am not getting. 

 

Also where is plug b2 and B15 they speak of in the ECU pin out diagram. 

 

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-I also had fi code 19 on day 2 this problem occurred. Ignition pulse generator. I threw a new one in and problem still occurred.

 

-new sh847 r/r and rewounded stator with upgraded wiring and fuse (charging system confirmed good, will charged perfectly on 1 cylinder when reved up to run)

 

-new air filter and spark plugs

 

-checked yellow ground connector up by the headlights in the front fairings 

 

-redid ground connector left side of the harness by the battery/throttle body

 

-checked frame grounds on pin ljtB1, b2 , b14 on ECU grey connector 

 

-confirmed coilpacks are all working and receiving 12 volts and ground at connector 

 

-tried swapping coilpacks, confirmed only cylinder 2 connector fires the coilpacks

 

-fuel is good, only cylinder 2 header gets hot. Rest are ice cold.

Screenshot_2023-08-24-14-07-10-65_439a3fec0400f8974d35eed09a31f914.jpg

Screenshot_2023-08-24-14-07-32-07_439a3fec0400f8974d35eed09a31f914.jpg

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You sure do have a strange one!

1. Are you measuring your Ground wire continuity back to Frame OR the Battery Negative terminal? 

2. Make sure both Main Ground and Sub Grounds located at the rear of the tank (see attached picture) are clean, tight and well bonded continuity wise back to Battery Negative terminal.

3. "Does anybody know on grey ECU connector pin b16 labeled as a common return for a bunch of sensors (green & orange) is suppose to have continuity at the ECU connector?! Because that I am not getting. " B16 Green/Orange is Signal Ground for various sensors. If this Ground was faulty, your ECT, IAT, TPS and MAP sensos wouldn't work. With the ECM plugs installed and back probing the wire you might measure continuity to ground as the ECM will channel this to one of the other ground wires.

4. DTC codes for the Oxy Sensor heaters would point to a loss of 12v to them, assuming the Ground is ok.

5. Video shows no codes being flashed by the Fi Light. And, there are no codes for faults with the Ignition Coils. Make sure the Ignition Coil Grounds are solid back to the battery Negative and the 12v on all coils is steady both Ignition to on and while engine runs on one cylinder.

6. It does sound like you've located a flaky area within the harness, see if you can replicate this, then remove the tape insulation in that area, you might find a damaged wire or flaky OEM wiring junction point.

7. "Also where is plug b2 and B15 they speak of in the ECU pin out diagram. " Not sure what you mean here! ECM plug A is the Black connector, ECM plug B is the Gray connector, so b2 or B2 or B15 are on the Gray B connector. B2 is a Green/Pink wire GROUND. B15 is a White/Yellow wire Cam Pulse and Ignition Pulse Common.

8. Try measuring the 12v on the Black/White wire to one of the non working Ignition coils, try starting the engine, does this voltage greatly drop whist cranking or when the engine runs.?

9. Do a close visual inspection of Main Fuse B 30amp located next to not in the Starter Relay, the fuse, fuse holder, single inline joiner and wiring can all suffer badly from overheated, high resistance connections. This fuse supplies all power to the EFI system.

 

Hope this helps, haven't come across what your experiencing!

Good Luck, sounds like you'll need a bit of that!

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