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Bike dies when high beams are on


N8rev1

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Hello all, I have a 2002 VFR800 with 36k miles. I’ve recently encountered an issue where if my high beams are on, the bike has a tendency to die at random. It doesn’t always happen, but when it does, it only happens with the high beams on. I have to turn the key off and on again to get it restarted and then all is well. Never have any issue with just the low beams. Just trying to figure out what’s going on. I don’t think it’s a charging issue as it doesn’t lose voltage before dying. 

 

It has the original stator and R/R (but I plan to upgrade to sh847 soon) 

I have a voltmeter installed and while riding it consistently charges at around 13.7 volts with the low beams on, and around 13.3 volts with the high beams on. I only use the high beams at night and only on the really dark roads. I have found that if the high beams are on at idle, it only charges around 12.7 volts, and then when the fans kick on (while the high beams are on) the voltage drops to around 12.2. I just don’t use the high beams unless absolutely necessary.

 

I understand that the 2002 model has an undersized stator and there was even a recall (now expired) that noted the charging system can’t handle the full electrical load of the high beams and fans at idle. That’s fine by me as I only intent to use them when riding at speed. 

Seems to me like it’s most likely a ground issue. I’ve never had any actual charging issues, I did directly solder my stator to r/r wires recently as the connector had started to melt. I have added an extra ground to the blue connector. And I’m about to take the front cowl off to inspect the orange ground block and solder all the wires together. Anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks to all. 

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13.3 sounds low.  If this were my VFR I would be unsoldering the stator and checking the AC voltage output.

 

I just went through something similar on my 1998.  Charging voltage while riding highway looked reasonable, but stop and go with the radiator fan drained the batter.  Stator output AC was drastically low, and as a result had reduced wattage output that couldn't handle the fan.  I replaced the stator.

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Have a very close inspection of your two Main 30amp Fuses.

Main Fuse A 30amp in the Starter Relay - Check the red plug going to the relay especially the Spade connector for the Red wire, it can suffer high resistance connection causing heat, voltage drop and melted plastic.

Main Fuse B 30amp is next to the Starter Relay it and its wiring also suffer badly from high resistance connections and wiring. See attached.

image2(2).JPG

EF79D2E6-8E27-4F00-87F3-C99F83E6BE32.thumb.jpeg.09d26801311b53185228c34b60382593.jpeg.jpg

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Well, one of my fuses looks a little toasty. Hasn’t popped yet, but definitely has been hot. The one on the starter relay looks fine.. I am about to order the sh847 kit, but sounds like I may also need a new stator as well. Bummer. My only option for my 02 model is to sent it off to get rewound, or upgrade to the 03+ stator and flywheel. $$$ and time either way. Sad as this is my daily rider. 

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Yeah BUT, you haven't mentioned what the Red Wire in the Red connector for the Starter Relay looks like!

Also what about the single in line connector for Main Fuse B is that heat stressed?

Refer to pictures supplied.

 

Would be a good idea to measure some voltages. Clip your Voltmeter Black lead to Battery Negative terminal. 

- Locate the 18P Blue connector on the upper left side of the bike near the front upper corner of the radiator.

Measure/probe both sides of where the Red/White wire comes in (From Main Fuse B.) it possibly changes to a Black Pink on the other side - You should measure Battery Voltage.

Now turn on ignition select Hi Beam do the same measurements, are you still seeing battery voltage on both sides of the connector?

 

- Locate the Black/White wire measure both sides of this wire what voltage are you seeing with Ignition to ON select Hi then Lo Beam - Does this voltage vary a lot? Again it should be near enough Battery Voltage and stable.

Any doubts, separate the Blue Connector inspect for burnt/corroded pins or sockets.

 

What is the age and health status of your battery, noticed its made in Vietnam, what brand is it? Are your battery terminals Clean and Tight?

 

Good Luck.

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, N8rev1 said:

Seems to me like it’s most likely a ground issue. I’ve never had any actual charging issues, I did directly solder my stator to r/r wires recently as the connector had started to melt. I have added an extra ground to the blue connector. And I’m about to take the front cowl off to inspect the orange ground block and solder all the wires together. Anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks to all. 

For Grounds - First check the Main frame Ground and the various system Sub Grounds located rear of the tank, (see attached) make sure these two ground points are clean, tight and no damaged wires.

Testing Ground wires - To verify a good/bad Ground wire clip Voltmeter black lead to Battery Negative terminal, with power ON,  probe any Ground wire, If You Measure a Voltage ON the GROUND Wire - Then its NOT properly Grounded, you've found a bad Ground wire.

Screenshot_20230817_202621_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg

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Hi everyone, here’s an update: 

I have upgraded to the sh847 regulator. 
I have also done away with the yellow ground block and twisted every ground wire together and soldered them, and added another ground. 

The charging voltage at idle is now around 14.3 volts low beam, high beam at idle is still around 12.7 volts.

When riding on the road, low beam voltage is 14.5 volts and high beam voltage is 14.2 volts. It seems like while although my stator is indeed a bit weak at idle, I have a much stronger charging system overall now. I plan to upgrade all my lights to LEDs soon so I can decrease the load on the stator at idle and hopefully keep up with the fans and high beams on. Rode the bike to work this morning with the high beams on and no issues with it shutting off so far 🤞 

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