Rice

If mr Ohm isn’t lying, I’d need  a 96W resistor on each coil?  Assuming that coils get 12v. That’s a lot of resistor...  

Will rewire the thing to relocate the fuse box and the headlight relay(s) under the seat, get it running, relocate the stock coils under the tank, get it running again, and than will get back to cops. 

They are mighty sexy things. 

I’ll give a resistor a try. Will report back. 

JZH, did you ever get it running on COPs?

I got some 2016 CBR COPS from ebay with a harness for my 3rd gen build.  At $35, i figured I'd give it a chance.

So, the resistance of the OEM coils is 3ohm and the COPS are 1.5 ohm. 

I wonder if adding a 1.5 ohm resistor will do the trick?

There was also a discussion of the old coils having a capacitor built in and the COPs not?

Can a capacitor be spliced in as well?

Looked like fun times. 

A bunch of delinquents frim from the May ride I see.  

Good game. 

Wanted to say ride it into the ground and swap the engine, but the only one I see on ebay is $2k.

I would do the following:

1. Do a leak-down and pressure test
2. Pop the valve covers and inspect for obvious signs of ware on the cam lobes

If no issues, ride it into the ground :)

I put on a set of Bridgestone T30 Evos during the 2nd day of the NC trip and WOW.  I don't say that often.  Just Wow.

Never had so much confidence during hard riding.  Anything I could through at them was absorbed without complaints in perfectly predictable manner.

I cannot speak to the longevity, but they held up very well to 3 days of hard riding and look like they can carry me through another NC trip with ease.

Previous B-stone S21s melted away in 2-3 fun days on me.

Nice!

I am in the process of gathering the intelligence for a DIY setup.

Found Turner clamps and bar for $102

Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design

Sargent seat - $275

Rear wheel - $350

Sorry for the jumbled up description:)

The issue is that I couldn't get my idle RPM to reach 1200. At most, I could get it to idle at 1100 RPM (not 10.5K - My bad), at which pooint adjuster wouldn't turn any further.

The fixed cylinder 4 was left untouched.

I ended up turning RPM adjuster back towards the low side until the vacuum rose to about 20 mmHg while RPM remained at 1100.

I then synced all to cylinder # 4 and called it a day.

First impression is nocably smoother responce at parking lot speeds.

Will do more testing and report.

I am in the process of doing the sync now and can't get idle to rise above 10.5K RPM.

At its highest, I can hear quite a bit of air being sucked into the starter valve openings. If I turn the idle screw down, the hissing stops (almost) and the readings on the manometer increase, meaning that there is more vacuum.

Now, turning the idle screw down doesn't have much of an effect on the RPM.

What I have resorted to is turning the idle adjuster such that I get 20mmHg on the 4th cylinder and then I adjusted the other cylinders to match. This incidentally is the highest RPM reading I can get at about 11K. I am using the ECU wire to measure RPM.

Does anyone know why my RPM doesn't want to go up?

I have soaked the adjuster with PB Blaster on the throttle body and it moves fine within a certain range, so I don't think is't mechanical...

Interesting that I should stumble upon this thread today.

I have been fixing my leaf blower and twisted off the bot holding on the muffler.

A 1/4" stud remained protruding. I tried welding on a nut but it just twisted off.

Ended up welding on a nice big glob at the end of the stud, which made it nice and red and provided with a good purchase for the wise grips.

First time in my life it actually worked for me...

If I was looking for a project, I'd install them just because. Kinda like carbon fiber.

I'm sure they benefit in some applications, but I wouldn't expect any. Well, except saying that I gots me some ceramic bearings

Tranny install also ? Can I be next on the list of installs but have to have it back by TMac 2014 .

Oh no. Tranny didn't even enter my mind

If I was looking for a project, I'd install them just because. Kinda like carbon fiber.

I'm sure they benefit in some applications, but I wouldn't expect any. Well, except saying that I gots me some ceramic bearings

Have a hot beverage.

Maybe grease your chain.

Here is some of the feedback I left:

- Make Avoid Highways/Tolls option available at the level of a leg and not the whole route. This will be very helpful for those who want to plan the whole trip and not just the fun part of it.

That's a nice idea, not sure how it'd work from a programming perspective, but I like your thinking

- Arrows meant to reorder the way points did not work for me.

Yeah, you're by no means the first person that's mentioned this one, they're click and drag'able as opposed to just click - we've tried a few different arrows / icons here but still haven't quite cracked the right one yet. Thanks for pointing it out, we need a fix on this one. Out of curiosity, what sort of thing would you think 'I can drag that' if you saw it?

- Undo option to easily revert the last route change would be helpful.

Yeah, just now you have to delete the previous / offending POI but a simple undo button would be handy.

Thank you!!

Regarding arrows - I would have drag and drop circular objects, e.g.dots. If you want to get fancy, then a solid dot surrounded by a circle. When you drag it, a dot appears to shift in the opposite direction relative to the circle and to the direction of drag. Not sure if it makes sense... I saw this type of object somewhere before and it was pretty cool. Maybe you can find it in the open source world.

One other suggestion that may have been lost is to grab location from the incoming browser session and center the map accordingly.

I checked it out and left feedback, which has now disappeared. Or I just can't find it anymore.

Anyway, I like the way it works and the idea in general.

Here is some of the feedback I left:

- Make Avoid Highways/Tolls option available at the level of a leg and not the whole route. This will be very helpful for those who want to plan the whole trip and not just the fun part of it.

- Arrows meant to reorder the way points did not work for me.

- Undo option to easily revert the last route change would be helpful.

Another general observation is that usually riders are protective of their favorite stomping grounds lest they turn into another Deals Gap, so not sure how much actual sharing is going to occur. Hope I'm wrong on this one though.

Very cool!

Ohhhh geese.

I owe you some parts.....

Will send them out this weekend.

More details please!

And if they are giving you a brand new bike, major congratulations!!!

Ok - TBs SYNCED. Idle at 1600 instead of 1200. The bike is awesome! Truthfully, its probably just the increased idle since I can see that it opens up the air tract at 0% throttle a little bit more, reducing vacuum a noticeable amount. I had no idea that is how it could work until I started this adventure. Perhaps the newly synced valves are part of it, but it was probably ok before I started mucking with those.

When I first messed with the starter valves willy nilly in my rush to mess with stuff, the IDLE ended up at 2000, which explained why I had almost ZERO engine braking.

I will mess around with IDLE settings and see what effects it has on the engine braking. I only had time tonight for a quick shakedown run down the street. Anyway, things are looking UP!

Great.

So now I understand that your engine braking was perhaps more than mine and others' due to low idle.

My idle is set at 1600 or whatever the RPM gauge tells me 1600 is and I never saw it as an issue. I might have too if my idle was lower. Who knows.

Any way, enjoy your "new" ride

I used PlastiFix with good results.

Interesting question.

Someone on here has looked into the slipper clutch, which IIRC never happened.

Why didn't I think of that???

What a great idea.

I agree that some jobs require proper tools, but jobs like this one can certainly be done in any number of ways with the same results.

Dutchy has made a very good point.

Meet with Nigerian representatives from Honda, show purchase receipts and any other pertinent documents, in other words, make sure that there is no question of legitimacy. Then, enlist Nigerian H reps in reaching out to Honda UK.

It would be in Honda's best interest to act in good faith and show that it stands by its products and its customers. Especially since this particular bike is the flagship of the brand and commands hefty price of admission.