Auspanglish

Gig, just an off-topic quickie... Do you have the triples lowered down the forks a bit or is it just the slope you're parked on?

That must make for some slippery dykes

The guy from the service shop in my city told me to use break disk cleaner - the filter will return to its original color:)


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Same way I used to do it. Except I just used dishwashing liquid.

Shower stream applied only to bottom side for same reason vacuum only applied to top side.

I then used the same Krafft chain lube in aerosol to oil it (very liquid type oil, no Teflon or waxy stuff) that I used to use on my chains (every 500-800 Km) and got great mileage out of my final drives with. I tested both oils to ascertain similar behaviour at operating temps. I was happy they were similar enough and the bike ran just fine. No spluttering or signs of lack of power at high revs.

The key should lock into place, as seen here...

I find those guys expensive

I have been using my reusable scotts for a few years now myself, and I get a jug of oil at wally world - mobile one 10w40. My buddy Mark did a lot of research on viscosity ratings and such and he spends the 8 bucks a quart on mobile one mtx 4stroke motorcycle oil - me I think its wasting money however I change my oil every 3k unless I am on a 5k trip or somthing where changing oil is unfeasable.

That bit of paint would surely be in the oil filter by now?

BlingBling

Off topic I guess but I just saw this arvo someone selling on Aliexpress thinks that handsome mug will boost sales...

Jealous like gellati

Fucky lucker!!

What is that from redslut? A horn?

Congratu-f'ing-lations León!!

You have now been born again, again.

Yep, my 5pm on Saturday...

It's the VFR's weak point. If it is economically viable for you I would whack an entire new wiring harness in and enjoy the bike. Paying by the hour for mechanics to hunt for a needle in a haystack will surely cost you more, even if they are good with a multi-meter, which many aren't.

Of course this is just my modest, humble and amateur opinion. Not a guarantee.

I do it all myself so it's just the cost of the parts... and my time.

Possibly cheaper and easier to just replace the entire harnesses and have peace of mind??

I swapped the front one out for a new one that I improved before installing it for ease or comfort of working on it on a bench instead of on the bike.

OP states "frame number" not "engine number"

The recall states VIN numbers with seven consecutive digits... Bartho's VIN doesn't have seven consecutive numbers... only six: JH2SC63B8CK200172... and a buddy's VFR1200F over here in Spain also only has six consecutive numbers... like Bartho's it has letters mixed in.

Your reputation "recedes" itself.

LOL

Nice one Hotshoe!!

Ok I finally got all the parts sorted that I needed and a few mods along the way.. First off the parts you will need from a Honda CBR F4/F4I..

Fork Cap

Rebound valve and adj/connector rod.

Yes that is all you need, you dont need the F4 Catridge tube, Just everything associated with the F4 rebound....

OK... there's no such thing as a stupid question right...

Can those in the know let me know which of these part numbers are the:

- Cartridge tube

- Rebound valve

- Adj/connector rod

That is to say... which numbers in this blow-up diagram do I need from the F4(i)??

Obviously 14 is the fork cap.

But part no. 11 isn't displayed in a blown-out fashion...

Hey Slammer... can't see any of the marvelous photos you used to be able to see in your tutorial (first post in this thread).

This happened to loads of my tutorials on ClubVFRSpain due to Imageshack deciding to change their policy from free hosting to pay or we'll wipe your pics... and they wiped them before I had time to do something about it.