KevCarver

On 12/12/2017 at 1:13 PM, JZH said:

4800 is what I would call a "long" COP with an external grommet.  Used on GSXR750 (06-07), GSXR600 (01-03), Yamaha XV1600.  Other long COPs with external grommets include: 5100 (also GSXR750 06-07?), 5140 (GSXR750 11-16) and 5230 (GSXR750 08-11).

 

I'm curious how Stray is going to seal his COPs...

 

All of the Honda COPs seem to be internally sealed, which means that the seal depends on the valve cover having a smaller orifice than I believe VFR valve covers have.  All of the externally sealed COPs I've tried on my 3rd gen do not really fit correctly, but VFROZ did mention that some trimming is required.  I've also tried swapping grommets between different COPs, but that wasn't much help.  (FYI, the 3rd gen cannot use the long COPs--it needs shorter ones to clear the radiator, but the only short ones I've found that had external grommets were on the Yamaha R6 ca. 2002.)

 

Ciao,

So the 5100s are just as good to use as 4800, or the '08 CBR? I got a set of 5100s donated, and the '08 harness is under $7 on fleabay.

On 2/8/2018 at 1:58 AM, keef said:

 

what are the differences in the 5th/6th/8th gen swingarms? I've notice a few lightweight wheel discussions going on..

Not a lot, they all mount up with the right parts. I mocked up a '14 swing arm with a 6th Gen hub on my '99 engine using the rear cushion from a 6th Gen. 6th and 8th swingarms use the same mounting hardware. The "rear cushion" can be changed out to mount 6/8 Gen onto a 5th, 6th and 8th should be able to swap out easily. 

Of course the 6th and 8th are longer than 5th Gen. They use a 2 link longer chain.

I saw in Miguel's original 6th Gen bleeding post that there was a PCV bleeder on the left in front of the battery. I only thought there was one on the ABS and it was moved to the right. Now I see there are two. I'll have to give that one a shot too.

I was leaving the rear top bleeder open with the power vacuum on and trying to hit the pedal by reaching under the bike and SMC with my foot.

So, I'm thinking by reading your description I should be on the PCV by the battery with the vacuum line while doing this? Every time I tried bleeding the right side PCV it was solid fluid.

I'll give it a shot at least. Maybe I can round up a helper later on. 

I don't know. My thinking is that there are two bleeders on the left caliper. One for the front MC, and the other through the PCV from the rear. The SMC draws from the rear reservoir and is bled through the top bleeder on the rear caliper.

Wera803 said it takes two people (I'm currently only 1) to push on the rear pedal and also the SMC in sequence. And I believe to bleed from the top bleeder on the rear. And to bleed the PCV after that.

I get solid fluid from the PCV. 

Rear top bleeder is very air-y, but I'm also using a power vacuum bleeder which doesn't lend itself to clear evaluation of the fluid that comes out and how much air is sucking past the nipple from outside. Except from the PCV, every linked bike I've bled has solid fluid from the PCV.

I had to replace the secondary master cylinder on a 2003 ABS. What's the best way to get the system bled after that? 

Painter Bob (member here) also did it with a RWB (coincidentally) and showed up to TXMac this year on it. Seems like it went easily enough. Still some issues with the MiniCarver build, but it's not certain it's related to the swap mod.

Don't see Bob posting much, but maybe a PM or maybe he lurks and will see this?

I'm not sure it's really as difficult as it seems. The biggest issue is getting the plugs sorted, since the 6G uses coil on plug and 5G uses remote coils. I think there were some reasonably simple solutions found, but you'd have to hear it from the ones that did it. (Cause I don't know!)

Wow, those were overdue!

Some newer bikes have a rubber plug to cover the pad pin instead of the slotted, threaded cover. Pretty sure my ST1300 does. Maybe go ahead and order a pair to have on hand. They are really only there to keep brake dust and gunk out of the hole so the pin comes out.

One on ebay for 180. That too much? If so I guess mine isn't for sale...

I'm not familiar with the 5th gen at all...the "dumbo" mod is getting rid of...the front signals? Or the mirrors? Trying to make sense of what you did here. You used the OEM sockets and slid them into...some aftermarket front signals?

Yes, the front signals. Since I removed them and had the holes glassed over and painted, the sockets were up for grabs. That also freed up the connectors inside the fairings. I cut the connectors off, forced the sockets into the Emgo GSXR mirror housing, and plugged the connector in after soldering wires onto the ends. I had to attach bullet connectors on the other ends to fit each wire through a hole in the upper fairing under the mirror mount. No way a three wire connector would fit through there. Then the wires plug into the original harness via the bullet connectors. Wires stay with the mirrors if I have to remove them for upper fairing removal.

I have not tried pushing another wire thru the GSXR stem, mostly b/c that would infer that I've found another bulb socket that would fit the GSXR mirror head and had 3 wires on it. You got something like that?

I used my stock 5G bulb sockets and deleted the OE dumbo ears. Didn't slide right in, but with some effort and cursing I managed to wedge it in there.

Is there a fairing angle difference between 5 and 6 Gens?

Did you ever try fitting three wires through the GSXR stem?

I did mine that way too. The only downside is the slightly unfinished look of the wires outside the stalk and covered with heat shrink. But it's not super noticeable. I used Emgos with smoked lenses. Look better when off, but less light. And the stock ones are far and away better quality with a small weight inside to stabilize.

I think I'm getting one pretty soon. Gotta take a ride with new oil and see if that helps first.

What bike?

Possibly, but I don't have the machining tools to accomplish that. Plus the arm and bearing makes a difference. They didn't even start out selling the VFR kit with the star, so it must be significant enough.

Well, it was 5 years ago that he did it...

I too have noticed quite a difference in oils. My trans does not like M1 at all!

All through TMac I was getting rough and missed shifts with oil that was over 5k miles old through 6700 miles at the end. Haven't gone back out since I changed it yesterday. May be back to smooth old self, but I figured I would treat the bike to new star and arm for it's 100k mile "birthday"!

Anyone found a better price than $152?

Love the test fire fuel rig. "You may be a Carver if..."

Not work. If the socket is a single pole, it won't contact anything. That's why I said I put the two pole socket into the housing.

Honestly, no idea. Google is your friend!

Actually it just occurred to me that you probably wouldn't be removing the OE turn signals, which is generally a big goal of 5th Gen'ers (De-Dumboing).

So you wouldn't have the OE socket to use. But there's always eBay!

In the break glass and reassemble method, you only have the housing to reuse. Wires stay in the GSXR stalk, unused. I bought a three pack of red, black, and green wire and rewired the whole thing with bullet connectors to fit through the new hole in the upper fairing.

Then of course, filled and repainted (Or paid someone to do so) the turn signal holes.

I'm guessing you would want to use the "trailer conversion" thingy to convert three wire from the bike to 2 wire to the signal. Or not bother with running lights since you are keeping OE signals? On the 6th Gen, the turn signal holes would make a nice "ram air intake'!

Not sure how would work with your setup, but I took the socket out of the VFR turn signal and replaced it in the lens housing. Of course I had to rewire the entire thing anyway, so no big deal to wire it 3 wire once the double pole socket was in.

Are you able to pull new wires through the Gixxer stalk?

CornerCarver had some fancy trailer light conversion thingy (literally straight out of the 1950's), but I don't know if he ever got it to work right.

That's coming to tmac right?

It looks even better in person!

I think the angle is pretty severe compared to 5/6G. Same reason the 7G won't work. Mounts on 8G don't separate from the stem. Mirror housing and stem are one piece on 8G. (Maybe just on the aftermarket part I saw?)

Just off the top of my head looking at parts on the 'bay...

The genuine parts have a metal plate inside to add weight to dampen the vibrations. The Emgo's seem alright. The stalks are the same, cast aluminum(?).

I reused the internals, including the spring to keep the nut holding the housing tight. Thread lock on the mount bolt since moving the stalk loosens it up. Emgos are worse with that than OE.