Dutchy

Cheers!

SS Bolts ordered (INOX A4 Torx),

will post up the "new look" clear clutch cover as soon as I have the parts in my grubby little hands....

I would like to swap the bolts on top of the clutch springs

I assume that the basket is aluminium and no idea what the oem bolts are made off

so what material should the bolt be?

aluminum?  Maybe too weak for the application?

Stainless steel? maybe corrosion with the aluminum?

does not matter?

That is my question too!

a m6 bolt with a m5 washer??

(Note, I'm an accountant, not a techie....)

I measured the pressure plate hole that accommodate the springs:

21mm

The M5/M6 Probolt washers have a 19mm OD, leave 1mm "room" on either side

The original bolts have a 16.7 mm washer, which has a little lateral play, so in effect has 2mm "room" on either side.

I will let the technie's chip in to say if this is of concern or not.

If not, what is the view on using the aluminum (comes in color) bolts? Too weak must use stainless?

the holes themselves are 61mm "deep"

But there is "only" 33mm thread; so no worries if bolts are a bit longer

(I put in a M6 bolt with 40mm thread length and it "stopped" with 7mm to go)

I'm curious, has anyone ever tried cleaning the disc brake bobbins to "unbind" them so the discs can float properly in the carrier?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw

I'd never heard of this before but it seems to make sense and would be easy to try.

Well, I was curious too and phoned EBC's technical support in the UK.

They have never heard of this, nor would they recommend doing it.

If you still want to go ahead, because neglect caused matters to corrode, be careful not to over tighten the bolt and nut because you do not want to compress the bobbin to a point it may damage or crack.

So this goes into the category "broodje aap"

Seb - I'd really like one too if you do another batch... one of these would be a perfect touch on my 2002!

While this one is NOT one made by Seb (saw it on a sea front promenade), it does show how it would look "in white"

(just rattle can the plate..)

EBC's QC missed this one.......

good thing I spotted and didnot fit them....

My 4th Gen loves her clear clutch cover....

(Seb used silver M3 bolts; the blue ones I retro-fitted)

Why don't you ride up to the Netherlands, it will be only 33C here today....

Those hold the electrical wires from your switch gear units: indicator, start, lights...

Now whip out a compass and dremel???

I decanter my engine oil prior to feeding it to redslut.... :-)

+1

firing up after the winter stop (in a freezing shed), the window "yucked up" pretty bad. Like I had poured some Bailey Original Irish Cream in...

That took some 10 minutes riding (to heat the engine up properly) to clear it.

Now with warmer temperatures is will only give a small smudge that disappear very quickly.

Not 100% convinded on the blue anodized M3's..... they should be a tad darker blue... so I may revert to the ones Seb supplied.

100% happy camper, afaik still the only one in NL to have it :-)

Chanting frantically....

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

"My redslut doesnot need USD"

missed this thread................ till now

so how does she ride?

to sell such a nice bike.....

So there is now no breather tube??

Would that not cause problems of some sort?

Some people spend their life chasing THE ULTIMATE pleasure,

not seeing the smaller pleasures in front of them, ready to be enjoyed

and that is ok too!!!

because I am getting going on this thing again.

A thing called "procrastination"??

.....Regulator rectifiers absorb 3 strong alternating currents (AC) from the stators yellow wires, and change them to a steady stream of direct current (DC) via the red wire. . if the R/R gets to much juice it sends the overflow to the ground with the green wire..

however.. the green wire is kinda wimpy and runs to the main harness and meets a bunch of other wires with juice going through them..so the flow gets a bit hot... and heat build up is what kills the R/R.....

Q:

a 90-97 VFRness replaces the wimpy green wire with a 10 gauge; which goes straight to the minus terminal on the battery (instead of into the wiring loom as you write)

So there is no more need to splice in extra grounds right?

on Powerlet customer service!

Would a complete '01 CBR954 front end (forks, triples, wheel, rotors) be a pretty much straight bolt on for a 4th Gen?

Soldering what soldering, we call that gluing .

I hate the new solder ...

You are obisously old enough to remember this eh?

get a set of speedbleeders so you can eaily yourself do a brake fluid service.

VFRD member Tightwad sells them via his website wiremybike.com at great prices.

They come in stainless steel as well

The opinions differs as to the increase in feel/performance SS lines bring over the OEM ones.

I went for them for the looks,,,,,

Nice! you even have a corporate sponsor!!!!