COS_VFR

I had similar problems after I cleaned and oiled my K&N filter.  I used too much oil and the filter became restrictive. Took awhile to figure that one out.

I am pretty sure that the kitten left it there while you were posting your message to VFRD

You can Download the Honda Service manual here:

Pages 13-3 and 13-4 in the Honda Service manual will show the rear axle. 

I think that it is item 14 in your Clymer manual, labeled "dust seal"

If you still have the lug, I would glue it back with ABS glue and then use something like Plastifix to reinforce the joint. The bodywork is made of ABS and ABS glue is just ABS dissolved in a solvent.

Does it look like #12 in this picture?

Partzilla lists it as:

WEIGHT, L. STEP,   50703-MT4-000

2 hours ago, raYzerman said:

I don't know what you have on the 750, but the Gen5 has a removable cover on either side above the dash (hides windshield attachments).  I made an angle bracket, attached with one screw plus 3M tape, wire hidden in the hollow behind.  Mirror image the bracket and put a voltmeter on the other side.

 

 

raYzerman, I see from your picture that you are using a tire pressure monitoring system. Could you elaborate on the model and your experience with it?

7 hours ago, scottbott said:

Your mounting bracket reminds me of the one TriumphTraitor made for 6th gens. I am curious about how you mounted that bracket.

The outer clutch basket is driven by the engine and the inner clutch basket is connected to the transmission. With the clutch disks removed, the inner basket should spin freely when in neutral should spin with the rear tire when in gear. 

Since you have the carbs upside down on the bench, have you tried letting some carb cleaner soak the jets overnight? Maybe slip a short clear tube over the jet and fill it up with carb cleaner to give it a good soak.

In the US, glue for ABS pipe that you can buy at the home store is ABS dissolved in Methyl Ethyl Ketone and Acetone. 

Hi COS_VFR,

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1 hour ago, Cogswell said:

When I was in Australia, my driving routine was to come to an intersection and signal a turn with my windshield wipers 

I completely understand, while in Australia, every time I signaled a turn with the windshield wipers, my coworker declared it was "The New Guy Wave" !

If you go through the trouble to replace the coolant hoses under the carbs, I would replace the o-rings and gaskets on the pipes.

These are the one I bought for my 4th gen.

https://www.bellissimoto.com/parts/engine/emissions-removal/tpo-emissions-pair-system-removal-kit-for-vfr750-1

Be sure to make sure that there are 4 plates instead of the picture which just shows 2. 

I purchased mine from tpoparts.com which appears to be offline now.

2 hours ago, damionj said:

It was just an operational check. Making sure the starter and electronics were working. 
 

The air box arrived. Of course, it’s missing a hose connector. I’m modeling and 3D printing a new one. Should be done modeling, printing and in-hand by tomorrow evening. 
 

 

 

 

Basic shape is done... now some refining...

 

Those two hose connectors attach to the PAIR system.  Most people remove it and plug those connectors.  From the pictures that you have posted, it is hard to tell the PAIR system has been removed  from your bike.

I think the first thing that I would do is get a shop vac and suck as much dirt out of the carbs, and intake ports as possible. I wouldn't even try and turn the crank until as much dirt as possible is pulled from the intake ports and any open intake valves.

21 minutes ago, damionj said:

 

 

 

Was the airbox attached to the carbs??

When I bled a dry system, I started with this syringe and forced the fluid up from the caliper to the dry master cylinder. Then bled the system as normal.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10111-FloTool-Mixmizer-Injector/dp/B000G72U0K

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That is normal. There is not supposed to be a cotter pin there.  If you took the axle out you would find a shoulder that keeps the axle from moving.  When I take out the axle, I put a screwdriver in those holes to help pull the axle out.

It sounds like the clutch is slipping. When this happened to me a couple of years ago, it was a clogged return port in the master cylinder.  There is a small whole in the master cylinder under a small stamped "protector". This a hole allows fluid to return to the reservoir. If it is clogged, then fluid can't return t and the clutch doesn't completely engage.  The other potential problem is to much fluid in the reservoir, if the fluid heats up and there is no room in the reservoir, then the fluid will push on the slave cylinder and disengage the clutch.

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I am not sure what browser you are using, but in Chrome you can right click and pick the "save as" option.  It will save a "html file" and a folder with additional files.  The problem is threads that have more than one page, it will only save the page that you are on.

When I want to search VFRD, I use the site option on Google.

          site:
          Limit results to those from a specific website.

          Example: site:www.vfrdiscussion.com  frankenviffer

It only searches the website listed after the keyword "site:"

Zipties are often made of NYLON 66 which has a melting point of about 500F - 260C. How hot does that stator get?

The fuel pump does not run continuously like a motor, it pulses and does so slowly at idle.  I have never noticed hearing my fuel pump run before I hit the start switch. 

 Looking at the wiring diagram, the fuel pump relay gets power from the ignition control module.  I am not sure if the relay is powered if the engine is not turning over.  Does someone know for sure?

Rescue119,

I am curious to know how visible the voltmeter is in the sunlight.

I have a meter that looks similar to the one Marooncobra has and it was hard to read in the sun.