mello dude
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Posts posted by mello dude
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Nice! How much?
MD will have to chime in, I got a prototype discount.
Looks like $29.95 plus 5.80 shipping USPS. Fasteners included.
These are 6061-T6 aluminum, CNC laser cut. Minor polish finish. Exact shape of the OEM valve.
Gotta give a thanks to Capn for doing the tryout on the prototypes.
Oh yeah fit 5th/6th (8th?) -- Working on 7th soon.
Damn, - it do look good, dont they?
PM interest please.
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3
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If your can stick both fingers in your ears and you have a multimeter, you can test the R/R and the Stator. -- So, do you have a multimeter?
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Progress! Yay!
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Right 6th gen
Left 6th gen
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The only other 43 mm Honda clipons at the moment I can think of are F4i and they are considerably lower than any VFR clips.
As a btw, 6th gen clips are about a bar diameter taller than the 5ths, and 4th gen clips are about a bare diameter lower than the 5ths. (I'm running 4th gen bars on my 5th.)
Any photos coming on your 5th engine in 6th odyssey? You Carvers do a lot of cool shit, would love to see more pics.
I'm a geek foole, feed me.
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Wouldnt mind an on the helmet setup. It seems kinda blingy on the bike.
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OH, OLD THREAD ARISE!!!
I guessed I may have missed it, but does a Grade 5 bolt work for this mod? That's all I seem to fond in M10
Putting my engineer hat on, Grade 5 in such a critical spot is probly not a good idea.
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Brake mod poll thread started!
Is ditching the linked brake system fairly common?
I dont think so, but some of us determined fooles just gotta do it. I'm glad I did. (Hey there's a poll for a count.)
I've installed a lot of aftermarket brake lines, but I'm not very familiar with the linked brakes on the VFR. I have very limited experience riding with the system too. I was curious if those who did it find it to be a noticeable improvement or otherwise.
It probly goes more with riding styles. My roots are in motocross so separate brakes are ingrained in my brain. True or not, I feel I have more control over the what is going on. If I want front only, I can do that, and if I want rear only or a blend, I control how much and when. Thats what I like. (The RC51 calipers are great)
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Call for gig again -- did you get what you need?
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Is ditching the linked brake system fairly common?
I dont think so, but some of us determined fooles just gotta do it. I'm glad I did. (Hey there's a poll for a count.)
- The thing is, I have never heard of anybody saying that they wish they didnt redo the brakes back to stock
after they have gone ahead, and did the mod with the full delink.
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Appologies to gig for the slight thread jack -- - did you get what you need for your brake work?
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Looking for brake suggestions, Ive never been happy with brake feel "mushy", have a 5th gen, w/ dunlop HH pads, pazzo adjustable levers, changed fluid, thought the next step would be SS lines, and thought I would start with front only, due to cost and pain in the assness, any Thoughts? Thx
If you get to the point of saying --- "effe these linked brakes" -- swapping to VTR lower fork tubes (super hawk) and going to RC51/929/F4i brakes calipers and master cylinder is a great way to go. And no more linked system bleeding fun to boot. (pics in my gallery)
To be honest, anyone who thinks it's the linked brakes, I say it's in your head, no offense, at least just regarding them being "linked" brakes.
Some people like them and some people dont. I just offered an option.....
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Looking for brake suggestions, Ive never been happy with brake feel "mushy", have a 5th gen, w/ dunlop HH pads, pazzo adjustable levers, changed fluid, thought the next step would be SS lines, and thought I would start with front only, due to cost and pain in the assness, any Thoughts? Thx
If you get to the point of saying --- "effe these linked brakes" -- swapping to VTR lower fork tubes (super hawk) and going to RC51/929/F4i brakes calipers and master cylinder is a great way to go. And no more linked system bleeding fun to boot. (pics in my gallery)
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GE Aviation is working with this technology in a big way for some next generation of jet engine parts. Of course the equipment they are using are in the mega high dollar range out of reach for us working stiffs.
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Sounds good! - I have been wondering what the bike would get out of a simple cam swap plus tuning.
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Any updates??
I've been also curious on how thing are going for you sa1713....
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-- Having trouble playing the vid
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You know the rule about no pics = ?????
+1 on that.... You guys have been holding out on us...
---- I'm a geek foole, feed me.
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Close to what I got....
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We are really far along in our 5th gen engine in a 6th gen frame ...
Keith
Is there a photo build thread?
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- The wheel mounting procedure is important to follow, tighten the left side pinch bolts first, there could be clearance problems if you do it wrong.
I decided to start almost over.
- I took the axle back out, wheel off, and pads out of the calipers.
- I bought a a dremel attachment kit ($11.50 on sale at Sears FYI)
- I bought high temp grease (Silaramic)
- Got out my buffing wheel.
Every bolt that I took out got cleaned with the brass bruss on the threads and buffing wheel on the head. The slide pin from the calipers also got cleaned and buffed. I took a long brush attachment and cleaned off as much brake powder from the inside of the calipers as I could reach. Per the instructions of the grease I put it on the back of the pads, the groove for the front of the pads, and of course the slide pin.
And still it rubbed.
Off comes the wheel. I grease the axle and double checked my spacers were on the correct side. (I will definitely want to paint that red like mello dude.) I Follow the reinstallation instructions to the letter. Tighten everything up the way it was supposed to be and sit in front of the wheel... I grab the tire and spin! It's still spinning... still spinning... still spinning! And no shish shish shish!
Mello nailed it. I believe that I tightened the pinch bolts at the same time and didn't seat the pads until the very last step. Oh, and the tire was on the ground... just an all around poor job the first time. So I wheel out my lady and get my gear on for the first ride since June 15th. (long story). Feels so good!
wait a minute... whats that sensation? Damn thing wobbles on deceleration between 55-45 mph! I think the front tire is not balanced correctly. Shit. I have to take the wheel off again! Screw it, I am buying Dynabeads and calling it done!
Thanks everyone for all the great help. My wife came out to help for a moment and she pointed out something to me. A year ago - seriously, only 1 year ago - I wouldn't even change the oil in my car. I have had the front end apart on this thing, the back end, read books and manuals, and spent a small fortune on tools and farkles. Ain't love strange?
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75265-dyna-beads-wtf/
- Tire rotating forward in the correct direction?
sry
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I think I have figured it out. After I had cleaned the inside of the calipers and the sides of the pistons, I put everything back together. Still had the rubbing sound. So now I took off the right side caliper and spun the wheel. The noise persists. Put the right caliper back on and remove the left caliper. Spins freely and quietly. So I take out the pads and check the pistons to make sure they are going all the way back as far as they should. They are. I check the slide pin to make sure it isn't catching on it, it could use a fresh coat of grease, but still not that bad. I look inside the caliper again really well... moving back and forth and up and down. Then I see it. The rotor is actually rubbing on the caliper. Its not the pads at all.
Quoting from another thread:
Make sure they mask off the rotor mounting surfaces, and also the back side of the rear rim where it contacts the hub.
If they don't, you're gonna be a sad camper trying to get the cured powder off!!!!
RULE: if the factory left it bare, it must remain bare. Make sure the monkey in the back of the shop knows, you can tell the guys at the front desk all you want, and it gets lost in translation when the spray monkey gets ahold of it.
Don't Ask Me How I Know!!!
Tomorrow I will pull the front wheel off again and take the rotors off again and check and see if I need to dremel sand the rotor mounting spots.
The rotor mount area on the wheel is a machined surface, and it's probly not a good idea to hit it with a Dremel.
-Veefer got me curious, and the service manual mentions the clearance between the caliper brackets and the rotor at 7mm min.
-Where on the caliper is the rotor hitting? Having a brain fart on picturing it. PIc?
- Do you have the left and right collars in the wheel mixed up? Remember I painted the right one red?
- The wheel mounting procedure is important to follow, tighten the left side pinch bolts first, there could be clearance problems if you do it wrong.
- Um, really dont like to debug by forum, I'm more a see it, touch it, smell it guy to figure stuff out.
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I went online to buy the bolts that got stripped. Ron Ayers shipping cost more than the damn bolts.
The whole bike is put together with a ton of 6mm x 1.0 bolts. Get familiar with the Lowes hardware as they have a good selection of Grade 8.8 and 10.8 metric fasteners that will work out for non critical mount up stuff. Beats buying at the stealership or online all the time.
Of course, sometimes there is no choice but to use OEM.
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---- Would love to see a photo of a bare bones 5th gen engine with the attempt to mount in the bare bones 6th frame.
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Sorry it's a 96
Its a 4th gen....
New Pair Block Off Plates - Mello Dudes Garage
in Modifications
Posted
I'll dig into how to ship to UK. I think it has to go by USPS. Get back to you soon.
btw- vfrcapn and CR were my tryout guinea pigs....looks like they are fine...