WGREGT

Good Lord, Mate.

Each one of those blocks will make 1 mount. I don't think there's gonna be any reselling of scrap, but I will ask.

I have not taken into account what the machinist wants to do the work, the anodizing, or the box/shipping, simply b/c I don't know those things yet.

Blocks are cut and ready to go once the soft samples are done...

We're running a round of samples this week made from a soft bonding-type board-like material. According to the guy running the CAD machine, it's just to run the programmed tool paths on material softer than aluminum for the first run. Sometimes as the cutter head swings about on successive passes, it may nick an edge or something. The enclosures surrounding the mills are not bullet proof, and sometimes they are shattered by flying debris, which I may be asked to pay for. So this allows them to test everything first and prevent that. More when I know it...

That one block shown in the foto was $40. Not sure how many I'll get out of it though. I'm told the machine needs a bit of waste to hold the block in order to cut them.

AL block for samples dropped off. Got prices on anodizing them afterwards as well. PS: The Delrin is way expensive. Like $96 USD for a block big enough to make 2 sets from. So, right now I'm gonna make the samples in the AL, anodize them in black, and see how the pricing works out to see if making them in plastic gets them any cheaper, or if there's even a need to try the plastic route. Should have samples in hand shortly, then 2-3 days to get them anodized. More when I know it.

AL and Delrin blocks ordered today for test runs. We'll make 2 sets in AL, and 2 sets in blk Delrin. I'll let you know when it's here.

OEM does have TOYO on them.

I'm still looking to match the wheel color on my 07 r/w/b anniversary edition. It's black to me, but....not to people with normal color vision. I'm told it's bronze something or other. Anyone know the name? Then I could look it up in that long-ass list you guys posted.

You will screw them together with my provided screw, which I will drill a hole thru to pass the wires thru, or I'll provide the screw and let you drill it, or I'll tell you what screw to buy & drill. Haven't thought that much about it yet. The mount hole will be threaded for this.

I'm not familiar with the 5th gen at all...the "dumbo" mod is getting rid of...the front signals? Or the mirrors? Trying to make sense of what you did here. You used the OEM sockets and slid them into...some aftermarket front signals?

Yes, the front signals. Since I removed them and had the holes glassed over and painted, the sockets were up for grabs. That also freed up the connectors inside the fairings. I cut the connectors off, forced the sockets into the Emgo GSXR mirror housing, and plugged the connector in after soldering wires onto the ends. I had to attach bullet connectors on the other ends to fit each wire through a hole in the upper fairing under the mirror mount. No way a three wire connector would fit through there. Then the wires plug into the original harness via the bullet connectors. Wires stay with the mirrors if I have to remove them for upper fairing removal.

The 5th gen OEM front signals don't look bad at all to me...guess I don't get the whole "dumbo mod" thing. I guess I'm gonna wire mine up with a 12v relay rather than buy another set of OEM bulb sockets.

The two wires in the GSXR OEM mirrors are encased in a slightly bigger protective insulation-like sleeve. It's really tight thru the stem as is. If you removed the sleeve and only had 3 wires coming thru there, you might *might* make it, but there would not be enough wiggle room for them, I think. They would be tight enough that they would not be able to be pulled thru the shaft. Then there's the hole on the end of the mirror shaft and the hole in the base I'm making, both of which I think are too small for 3 wires.

I'm not familiar with the 5th gen at all...the "dumbo" mod is getting rid of...the front signals? Or the mirrors? Trying to make sense of what you did here. You used the OEM sockets and slid them into...some aftermarket front signals?

Pivot bolt? The one in the center?

I don't have a 5th gen, but the only difference between the 5th and 6th gen GSXR bases I'm finding is that the 5th gens have retaining/centering rings around the mounting holes on the bottom just like the 5th gen OEM mirrors do. I've also been told that the 5th gen bases need some "creative routing" of wires b/c there is an OEM bolt head right where the wires exit the base. That true? If you got a 5th gen and one of these bases mounted, I'd love to hear how you solved it.

Once I get that far (since I have a 6th gen bike I can check fitment on, I'm making 6th gen bases first) I'll make some ABS mock-ups and run over to Duc2v4's house and check them out on his 5th gen. I think he has one?

I have not tried pushing another wire thru the GSXR stem, mostly b/c that would infer that I've found another bulb socket that would fit the GSXR mirror head and had 3 wires on it. You got something like that?

Not sure. I don't know the rider in the fotos.

I was asking him about his at Tmac. The mount and stem are vfr. Just the mirror is gsx. Somehow he popped the glass out and took apart the ball joint, if I'm not mistaken.

They sure showed up good that first night when they came rolling in, in the rain.

Yep. You can just break the glass as well, remove the nut holding the stem to the mirror, and install the GSXR mirror head.

Will the gsx mirrors be in the same position as the stock ones, or are the stems any longer? If not could the aluminum adapter be made say an inch thicker? If there is enough demand to produce these in numbers, look into having them cast in aluminum at a foundry. It may be cheaper than having them machined.

As far as the length or if they are longer, here they are again on a 6th gen. My thoughts on making the base thicker would just to use a set of those mirror extenders underneath the bases I'm making. I know those are an inch in height.

For me, I would stay away from anything that is not OEM Suzuki. Emgo and the like: you won't be happy with, I bet. Vibration is the deal-breaker with Emgo and aftermarket ones.

Yep. Already bought a set and used a drill press to separate the base from the mirror itself. Takes about 5 seconds per mirror this way.

Me? I've long seen those styles of signal mirrors on ebay and the like, and for me they are too sharp and angular and "sportbike" for a VFR800. If you're putting them on a new ZXRRXX14RRX, I'd say sure, they'd fit right in. CBR600RR or the like? Sure. VFR800? Not my cup o'tea.

His shop closes for the 4th of July, so he's been off this whole week. So...next week we should have some movement. I've got some suppliers to call, but I need him to give me the cubic amount each set needs so I can get some quotes. I know we'll need some extra to allow for holding of the parts as they are made, and he's the only one that can get that info for me. Then, hopefully this week I can get some material quotes. He has some contacts internally with materials as well, and he's gonna work it from his end as well.

Oh...we are considering making 5th gen ones as well, in case any 5th gen owners want a set. It's only a small change for them.

More when I know it. If you're wanting a set, I'd use this time to look around for a set of GSXR mirrors myself.

Gonna get pricing for the AL ones (like the first batch made...anondized black AL) and nylon, apparently. The guy doing them suggested the nylon. I know nothing about it, but I'll post up when I talk to a supplier.

Update:

I finally picked up the ABS versions today (in white, cause...that's what the guys doing this had lying around) and...they fit and look great. I separated the GSXR mirrors from their bases (with a drill press, BTW, which IS the way to go. Took maybe 12 seconds per mirror that way) but have not attached them to these new ABS sample bases b/c I need to buy and drill the mounting screws tomorrow hopefully. Also, I need to drill a small hole in the fairing between the two OEM mounting holes.

But the good news is they are designed, printed, fitted, and they look great!

The guy doing the work has suggested we make the final versions in black ABS, which from what I'm seeing will be strong enough, but since they were originally made in AL and then painted or powdercoated, I'd like to get pricing on them too. Also, when I originally pitched these to the guy doing all the CAD work, he suggested he would most likely be able to make/machine these in small batches, probably setting up the machine to run overnight as he leaves work. So, just as a heads up, they will probably be made in small amounts (like 5 sets or so every week or so maybe?) Just as an FYI that we most likely won't be making/sending/mailing out 25 sets per week. So, a bit of patience may be needed.

Up next: pricing. More when I know it...

Oh. I was thinking I could just swap out the bulb itself for a dual filament one. I'll have to take a look at it. So usually dual filament = 3 wires then?

Without the diode (an electrical check valve for us plumbers) the electrical current back feeds from the running light wire to the turn indicator (when connecting any two wire light to the VFR's three wire circuit) and this circuit makes both turn indicator lights on the dash stay continuously lit.

During daytime riding it is annoying, at night is a potentially dangerous distraction.

You could also correct this as I have seen many older VCR owners do back in the day...a piece of electrical tape across the flashing "12:00" on the dash.

I'm unsure where we disagree.

That's the safety function I allude to.

The diodes do nothing for the subject being discussed; trying to make a single filament bulb function as a dual filament bulb.

Hmmm....maybe I could drop a dual filament bulb in the mirror sockets instead? What would that do?

Ahhhh...the old "crank up the car radio to get rid of any annoying car sounds" trick. I had a roommate in college that knew that one well. So....2 diodes AND a relay, for each side? And #30 is the 12v power lead, I'm guessing?