WGREGT

Wherever it went it just slid off from somewhere. Had to. In other words, I didn’t remove a screw or a nut etc that this went under. Does it go with any of the choke lever linkage somewhere maybe?

PS If it helps, all I did was pull the carb bank out and flip it over. I did not disconnect the throttle cables. Just a lot easier and quicker this way to get to the bottom of the carbs I thought.

Ok. I finally got around to pulling the carbs off. Pulled all of the pilot/slow jets and....they weren't really clogged that I could see. I was HOPING for a full-on gummed up/clogged jet(s) and/or float bowls but they were all sparkling. Blew the jets out anyway with the compressor and soaked them overnight. Still looked like I just pulled them out. Pulled ONE of the carb tops just to check and make sure a diaphram wasn't torn, but it was fine.

Here's where I need your help.

Put it all back together, and....found a small spring loose on the left side near the idle screw cable, just sitting on the engine.

And I have no idea where it goes. I looked at the fiche. I ONLY took off each float bowl and removed each pilot jet. No springs there anywhere. Took off that one carb top (which has a much larger spring under it), but I rechecked that and the spring is still there.

Looked all over the fiche in the CARB diagrams and found nothing that I could see where this goes.

So...any ideas?

I've got a heat gun.Might have to try it. Thanks.

Damn it.

Due to a rarity of riding this wet CA winter, two of my bikes won't idle without choke. I've had Stabil in the tank since last fall but apparently it didn't work worth a damn. I tried Seafoam in the tank (ran rough with smoking, naturally), then straight Seafoam from a small external tank directly into the fuel line (smoking), then drained all the float bowls and ran straight Seafoam from the external tank again, cut it off, and let it sit for 72 hours. One bike (gen 4) got to the point it would idle enough for me to take it for a hard and fast ride, but it surges up and down 2000RPM when idling on it's own.

It ain't right. Slow to come back down from revs too.

The OTHER V4 (1st gen) surges on idle up and down, won't run off choke, and won't move (dies instantly) when given gas.

Seafoam helped a bit on the 4th gen. Should I try it again? I REALLY don't want to pull these carbs off. I really don't. All of this could have been solved if I had just ridden the damn things more this winter. Ugh.

My inline four had the same issue, but I pulled the carb bank and cleaned the jets in about 40 minutes. Super simple.

Anyone got any wild-arse ideas that might work to avoid having to do this? My neighbors won't like the Seafoam again, but....??

I've had the Marc Parnes setup for years now. He's LoCal SoCal to me so I've met him in person and been to his shop. I like it b/c I have 4 bikes that I ride, and can easily swap the RD unit between all of them, taking the lights along too. I'm using a bluetooth RD, so I get audio in my ear thru the Sena unit as well.

Ha!. That's half the fun, right? To be able to say "These cost $100 new, but I waited and looked around for 9.5 months, and got them for $85 plus shipping." When you could have bought them new easily. But where's the fun in that?

The presiding wisdom is only OEM ones are decent. I know some folks tried to cheap out and get Emgo brand look-a-likes for the GSXR ones, and found out why they were so cheap. Vibration. I worked in a dealership for a bit, and every set of aftermarket mirrors we sold, regardless of brand or bike model, came back within days for OEM ones.

I could only get 8 or 10 people committed, and the minimum break point for under $200 a set I think was 25 or 50 (again, it's here in this thread somewhere towards the end...just going from memory right now.) Once that cost crept up, those 8-10 had hard decisions to make, and some dropped. Which made it more expensive for the 6-8 still in, of course.

Darth (the OG guy who made these) had one batch of 50 made, and sold all of them. But this was waaay back when Honda-San was still making the bike in the 2001-02 era.

RE: the ebay link

Yep. Those have been discussed/installed over on the OTHER VFR forum. Didn't work out well. Vibrated a lot. Had to redrill a hole on the fairing too if I remember right. Thurn made some as well (German company...also in this thread) and I contacted them and they wouldn't work either I think. Costs were high on it as well.

No, I made some PLA ones as tests in white in order to double check dimensions and fit etc. To me, I didn't think it was strong enough to support the mirror, vibrations, and you couldn't cut threads into it to hold the bolt. You'll see fotos somewhere in the thread.

Au contraire. I have the CAD files myself directly from the guy who made them originally, and (if you followed along all 27 pages of the whole sordid tale) I got quotes to get them made a few times, but the qty. we needed was so small the cost was way high.

If you're looking for something off the shelf and not a mod, your choices are slim. Like between these ones you found and.....none. I've never seen any like these before where the signal is suspended on the stalk and not part of the actual mirror.

Boy those sure are angular-looking. Most modern ones are. To me, the angular, sharp corner ones usually look better on a sharper-focused sportbike, not an aging geezer ride like the VFR.

yeah, but I don't need to do that just in order to swap fluid via the speedbleeders, do I? Won't the system still push fluid thru it without taking off the wheel, caliper etc?

Question: If I have speed bleeders installed all around on the 800 on all the front and rear calipers as well as the linked brake valves under the seat, the process to swap all fluids is much simpler, right? I don’t have to go thru the above whole process of removing the rear wheel, rotating and remounting the calipers, etc again, right?    I can just use the speedbleeders normally to swap all the brake fluid?

Sweet Fancy Moses....I think I may have this damn thing solved.This mirror sitting in the top of my toolbox, may mock me no more.

Yesterday I took the grinder to the Suzuki GSXR mirror. It's OEM from Suzuki, so not sure if the aftermarket/Emgo ones etc have the solid metal stalk or not. The ones I have are really solid and easy to grind.

I ground off the 3 "nubs" on the bottom of the mirror, the "ring" of metal on the top of the mounting hole where the bolt goes in, took some of the metal off the bottom of the stalk, all in an effort to get the talk to "drop down" more, as it's waay high otherwise. I have yet to do the wedge (I'm gonna use the hard rubber stopper in the fotos instead of tubing) but it looks like it will work, as it's more in line with the left hand mirror (the OEM honda VFR one) both visually and also sitting on the bike confirms it as being spot on as far as height.

I still need to spray the stalks, of course, but this is looking damn good to my eye, using the OEM Honda bracket.

What do you guys think?

I just now went out and removed my OEM mirror, kept the base on the bike, and mounted the GSXR mirror to the base using the same honda bolt. And you're right...they do stick up waaaay to far to be useful. After looking at it, to me it looks like a wedge puts a lot of stress on the mount...so I'm gonna make a big move on this today and grind down the underside of the GSXR mirror stalk to see if that lets me slide the mirror in a bit more. This also should let the mirror drop down vertically on the bike to make it more useful. I can always repaint it if it works. I'll post up results.

Thanks for the pics. The vibration could be caused by using the non-OEM chinese build mirrors. I know other chinese knock-offs for other bikes suffer vibrations, whereas the OEM ones do not. Emgo is a particularly bad example of this. From what I've seen/read, everything they make vibrates terribly. When I worked at a Honda dealer, we'd routinely sell them, and get them back 3 days later for this reason.

Thick wall AL tubing from a handlebar. I wonder if a solid rubber "wedge" cut from a solid rubber stopper would work as well. Just thinking out loud that your tubing is essentially a large "C" shape, and a solid wedge might give more solid base for vibration preventative as well? Plus you can get them at Ace hardware stores here in the states for 50 cents each.

I'll have to check this out this weekend hopefully.

Just checking in with Tightwad & Woodie to see if you guys had updates?

C'mon Woodie....give us a hand, yeah?

Woodie...care to take that thing apart and give me/us some decent fotos of what exactly you got there, including wiring etc?

PS how are they on the road etc? Move at all?

My plan now is to see if I can get them made out of plastic/resin, and then post the plans for the world to take to a 3D printer in their 'hood somewhere. The quantities are far too low to do in AL or any other way, frankly. I'm trying to make changes to the design and get a set made in black to see what they look like. Right now, since the design changes are being done for free I'm at the mercy of the guy doing them on his schedule. I'll call him today and see if I can lean on him a bit maybe.

I'm waiting on the redesigned files at this point. I'll let you know when I hear more...

I agree with the shallow head on the bolt thing. There is also a OEM suzuki plastic cap that hides the bolt head as well that I plan to keep/use.