Dan

Thank you for that info. I'll begin looking into all of it. Actually, I'll attempt to point my dealer in that direction. I could probably check the fuel pump myself but the rest of the stuff I'm not so sure about.

Regardless, your logic makes sense and gives me hope.

Best,

Dan

I am STILL having electrical problems with my bike.

The symptoms are the the engine feels like it is choked by about 20-30% as far as power loss goes. On occasion full power will come back on to the bike and it will run awesome. The problem is persistent through ALL throttle positions. In other words, pegging the throttle does not eliminate the problem. The problem is there from start to end and everything in between.

I checked across the terminals and it is charging like it should. My shop tells me that it does NOT sound like the RR.

I have run through more than one tank of gas and am pretty sure it is not the gas.

My mechanic at the shop seems to think it is my PGM (aka CDI, Computer). I checked the price of that part and it's $795.00. YIKES.

I have to start thinking a little bit ahead here. I would hope that I can find a PGM for less than that. Perhaps going after a used one is a worthwhile idea. I'm not sure. Ron Ayers has them for less. I imagine there's someone on here with a wrecked 5th gen who might be willing to sell me theirs. If so, post up or PM me. I'd like to get ahead of this if I can.

Anyway, I'd appreciate opinions. I guess I'll know a lot more after the shop diagnoses the problem. Until then, it's be nice to have some idea of what I am going to do if it does wind up being the PGM.

Best,

Dan

My 98 had the hi beam problem just before the R/R failed

Did anything else happen before the R&R failed?

When the R&R failed did the bike just stop operating?

I'm hoping that this is not my problem Will an "EKG" test at the dealer reveal this?

The odd thing is that the problem did not seem to show itself when I rode it yesterday. I am wondering if the lower temps that I was riding in the night before have anything to do with it.

Best,

Dan

Tonight, while running at a steady 70 mph in 6th gear, revs at around 5K, I began feeling the engine pulse. At first it was very, very slight. I almost though it was the road. I road a few more miles, stopped for gas and took off again. Upon commencing my travels I began feeling the pulsing even worse. At that point I aborted my trip and turned around to head home.

As I turned around and went to switch on my hi-beam the headlight went dark for a second and then the hi-beam came back on. This same thing happened a couple of times more over the next 10 miles.

Then, the problem seemed to go away.

Does this sound like a weak battery or something more serious? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Best,

Dan

I have a Stauntune hi-mount. Will these work around that or will I need to do some creative installation mods for that?

Thanks,

Dan

I'm so glad to learn that so many of you have gone with the Valentine 1. They really are the cream of the crop. They are pricey but so are tickets.

I'm not alone in my opinion on this. I'm on an email list that is comprised of nothing but the most hardened road warriors I know. These are people who laugh at tickets and can fight them better by themselves then can most attorneys Without exception, they use the V-1.

As for visual display, I would suggest one of those bluetooth wireless heads up displays that mount on the helmet.

Best,

Dan

When I did my research prior to selecting a 5th gen I learned that Honda did a slight redesign to the seat on the 5th gens. This modification improved the airflow past the seat through the "inseam area." Again, earlier and later models did not have this modification and it was part of the reason that it took a longer than average time for the after market seat suppliers to come up with seats for this model.

So, while all you chuckle heads with those "other" generations might need this "after-market cosmetic upgrade" we who own 5th gens do not. :P

I've always said that the 5th gen was the best model in the line.

Best,

Dan

Thanks sesand. I just bought a nice new perf'd leather jacket for a song on ebay. I'm not going to tell you what brand. :rolleyes: But Iwill let you know how things work out.

I don't give a damn about the brand. It's a matter of time before you turn it into cole slaw, anyway. :rolleyes:

What is want to know is WHAT SONG????

Best,

Dan

If you wear leather often enough, I think you adapt.......my wife and friends ask me all the time in the middle of summer, "aren't you hot, how do you stand that ?" It's not as hot as the asphalt friction factor. Also why I prefer the leather jackets with a lot of white on them..................... :thumbsup:

Some one on this forum has a line that is really similar to that in his sig. For the life of me I can't remember who it was.

Best,

Dan

Seb, just wanted to let you know that most DOT's have a process to file a claim for damage caused by improper/poor maintenance. They don't exactly make it well known or easy to find out about.

I have a couple of friends in the CT DOT. Want a trick to cut through the bureaucracy? Drive to a local state highway construction site and find the field office for that site. At the field office is a field inspector. The field inspector will know the number to call, the person to talk to or the address to mail to.

Best,

Dan

Glad you're ok Sebby.

When you come to CT I'll let you ride my bike a little bit if you promise to go slow.

Best,

Dan

Great show. I love it. This guy House is a real hoot.

Best,

Dan

Looks like he's learning to pee in the cheerios early on. Later on in life make sure that he knows it's supposed to be someone ELSE'S Cheerios and not his own.

Hmm, when he asked that question I thought "Hmm. He's either gay himself, or not straight."

Best,

Dan

PS: That's an Adam Sandler quote in case you're not a fan.

Let's hear it for tort reform!

I dunno....I'll probably get flamed for this, but I don't think helmets have a built in timer that makes them necessarily go bad just as soon as they become 5 years old. Maybe that's the minimum life in the harshest possible environment, or something. Don't the landfill people claim that polystyrene lasts 75 years or so?

All that being said, I'm a sucker and buy a new one every couple of years anyway.

And I do love the Ago helmet! Good luck in finding one.

We tend not to do a whole lot of flaming here. It's sort of the nature of the site. I think that I've been flamed only one time so far... and I've been called a "bastage" before which has a very special meaning to the old timers here.

As for replacing helmets, I tend to keep helmets a very long time. If it weren't for "5 years old" thing I probably wouldn't have replace my last one with my new yellow (the fast color) helmet.

I guess it's a personal preference sort of thing however, in my opinion, even if it is a marketing ruse that is true maybe only 1% of the time that 1% could mean 100% of the time to me if I happen to be on the bad side of that particular stat.

I'm glad that you replace your helmet every couple of years. It's probably the smart (and more stylish) thing to do.

Best,

Dan

Some of the passes I went over were pretty frickin' cold. Maybe mid to high 30's at the peaks. A lot of the peaks have snow all year round. Last year, I went through the Grossglockner Pass in mid-July, and I stopped to play in the snow.

Cool! pun intended.

Recently I found my self needing to select new brake pads for my bike so I opened the question up to the forum and, as usual, got a lot of interesting supplemental information about extra steps that people take when doing a brake job.

In the thread two post were made which I felt would be particularly helpful to anyone planning a brake job. I have included them here.

Post made by THX1139 on 4/24/07

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ROTOR PREP

IMHO prepping the rotors and maintaining the system has at least as much to do with good brakes as pad choice. When my pads are worn enough to replace, it's time for a caliper rebuild.

Not as big a job as it sounds; and if I don't have a hanging piston and the seals look good I don't buy a rebuild kit. Just carefully pluck the seals/O-rings with a wooden toothpick. Rubber gets cleaned with soap&water, everything else with alcohol.

I polish each of the pistons, mounting them on an expanding rubber mandrel that spins in my drill press. With careful application of some 1500 wet-or-dry they shine like mirrors.

Pistons, O-rings, seals, get reassembled with AGS Sil-Glyde while sliders/pins get synthetic moly caliper grease.

ALWAYS clean my discs with 220 folded in half around the friction ring and wash with acetone. Always hose down pads with brake cleaner, even brand new ones.

Then the master cylinder gets the same clean/polish/Sil-Glyde treatment.

Spending the extra effort really makes for a precise, needle-bearing-like feel at the lever; and so far I haven't felt the need for anything stronger than the stock Honda pads.

________________________________________

The following is a very helpful reference contributed by Gatekeeper on 4/23/07.

From http://www.braketech.com/tech/bedin.html

Racing Brake Pad | Bed-In Procedures

Racing is serious business. Virtually everyone involved with racing spends tremendous time, energy and money in the pursuit of checkered flag. So assuming you want the best from your brakes, please take the time to read and follow these simple procedures:

1. For best results, prepare the disc rotors by using a Rotor Hone (BT-RH10.0) or glass-beading the brake swept area. This is particularly important if you are switching from a sintered metal pad as the copper deposition layer burnished into the surface of the rotor can be a barrier to allowing a carbon/metallic pad from bedding-in properly. Maintain your rotors by rotor honing or glass-beading every time you replace your brake pads. On liquid cleaners; Acetone or denatured alcohol on a clean shop towel is recommended, Do not use an aerosol brake cleaner as many leave a residue that promotes brake pad glazing. Take this opportunity to check for fluid leaks. For best performance, we recommend changing your brake fluid every 2-3 events with a premium fluid (more frequently in humid climates).
   Please note: DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid is not recommended.
   
2. Heavy braking should be avoided until the new linings are fully seated across the entire mating surface. A visual inspection may be required. Scored discs will require substantially greater bed-in time, reduce overall stopping power and are potentially dangerous. We recommend replacing badly scored or distorted rotors with our advanced composition Ductile Iron or Stainless full-floaters.
   
3. Initially, the brakes should be used lightly (roughly 60-70% of normal) but frequently. As you feel the brakes come in, follow this with progressively harder braking to maximum pressure with momentary cool-down between applications. The goal here is to impart an even transfer film layer from the new friction material to the operating surface of the rotor. Do not try braking hard until they do and you are reasonably certain this is accomplished (usually 3-7 laps).
   
4. If a fall-off in performance is experienced due to heavy braking prior to the new pads being fully bed-in, it is important to allow the brakes to cool down before continuing. A “glazed†surface condition can usually be easily remedied by either utilizing the Rotor Hone or bead-blasting the brake swept area to the remove the burnished deposition layer left by the previous pads. Remove the glazed surface of the pads friction face, reinstall and repeat bed-in procedure.
   
5. CHRONIC GLAZING: Characterized by a very firm brake lever with very poor braking performance regardless how hard the lever is applied. Most motorcycle manufacturers utilize a heat-treated surface hardening process on their stainless steel rotors in an effort to help them survive with sintered metal pads. This sometimes creates a problem with semi-metallic compounds during bed-in. If glazing persists, glass beading of the brake swept area can eliminate the problem by thoroughly cleaning the surface and attenuating the heat-treatment with a more compatible shot-peened version. As a reminder, it is always a requirement to thoroughly clean the rotors with Acetone or denatured alcohol after using a rotor hone or bead-blasting. Reinstall de-glazed pads and allow 1-2 laps to bring up to operating temperature, the results should be most satisfying.
   

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Although all modern Ferodo Ltd friction formulations are non-asbestos, it is prudent and recommended to take adequate precautions while working with any manufacturers friction materials. Please observe the following:

1. Operate in a well ventilated area and avoid creating dust.
   
2. Machining (not required in proper application) should only be carried out using approved dust extraction equipment.
   
3. When fitting brake components, use appropriate dust extraction equipment or a damp cloth to remove dust.
   
4. Do not use an air hose or brush to remove dust.
   
5. Dampen dust, place it in a properly closed receptacle and dispose of safely.
   

________________________________________

Just as an FYI, I found the Braketech web site tech area to have a lot of valuable, additional information about this. Their URL is, http://www.braketech.com/tech.html

I hope that this reference page is helpful.

Best,

Dan

I just removed the stickers from my VFR. I've removed stickers before but never motorcycle stickers. These stickers have some real serious glue under them. In the process of figuring it out I tried a few different methods that had worked for me in the past but only one really worked. My guess is that if you've never removed motorcycle stickers before you could waste a good deal of time figuring it out (like I did) so I decided to write a How-To on it. (These steps are for the large stickers. Once these are done the smaller ones on the nose and tail will seem like a cake walk.)

The short steps;

1. Cover floor.

2. Remove side sticker A.

3. Mask below sticker A.

4. Spray Goo-Gone and allow it to soak in.

5. Remove side sticker B.

6. Mask below sticker B.

7. Spray Goo-Gone and allow to soak in.

8. Return to side A and remove sticker glue w. credit card.

9. Do the same for side B.

10. Wax and polish side A and B.

The expanded steps;

The way I did it was with a blow drier, some Goo-Gone, painters tape, a credit card, a clean rag, newspaper and auto wax.

To remove the stickers I used the blow drier to soften them up and separate them from the glue backing. They came right off. Note this!... It's easier to remove the stickers from the end of the words back. Pull the lower descender of the "R" in "VFR" back to where it meets with the rounded part of the "R." Next, do the rounded part of the "R" to the same point. Finally, work the entire sticker from the end of it to the beginning. If you take your time and use the right amount of heat you should be able to remove the entire sticker (without tearing it) with one long pull.

Once the sticker is off the work starts. The glue is dark and kind of hard. It's also quite impermeable. First, put some newspaper down under your bike. Since Goo-Gone can leave a mild haze I decided to mask off below the sticker and drape a piece of plastic off the part of the fairing below the sticker prior to spraying so as to prevent run-off on to the paint. Both of these tips will make cleanup a lot easier.

Spray the Goo-Gone on it and allow it to soak in. Spray enough so as to see it setting on top of the sticker. The Goo-Gone should sit on there for around 10 minutes. It will minimize the elbow grease you'll need but not eliminate it. You can go start the other sticker while it's soaking.

After the soak time it's time to go at it with your credit card. I put a slight bend in the card and basically wiped away the Goo-Gone and glue in long, narrow strips starting at one end of the top of the glue spot and going all the way to the other end. Start working from across the top and work your way down. It makes for less mess and allows any excess Goo-Gone to move down to the areas of the glue that you are about to remove. As you're doing it don't get too carried away with perfection. You'll be able to go back and wipe away any spots you missed as you clean up. Also, there is a certain angle and bend to hold the card. It's hard to describe but you'll have plenty of time to figure it out and when you do you'll know it. You'll just be able to remove a lot of glue in one long swipe.

As you remove your stripes of glue take the time to spray extra Goo-Gone on it. Every now and then you'll want to wipe the credit card clean, too.

Once you're done give the entire area a good, cleansing wipe to make sure that you're clean of all glue. Next, do the other side.

Your last step should be to wax and polish the areas to eliminate any potential for haze left from the Goo-Gone and to be absolutely sure that all of the glue is gone.

I hope this helps. :)

Best,

Dan

Well guys, I DID IT!

It looks so, so much better and I'm convinced that I have around 20 more mph at the top end.

It looks good, too.

Thanks for all of the feedback.

Dan

PS: It's a real pain in the ass job, though. I wish I'd know that before I started. I think I'll do a write up on it.

:rolleyes:

Honda has changed the propellent and it is now back on the market! The EPA & CAlif forced the change after some greenies complained.They announced it last month. It never went missing here, but I have some of the new cans & only difference is contents label.

I'm a greenie! Lots of green bikers out here.

If that's the color of their bikes, good. If not, then let CA keep them.

Also lots of evidence for global warming.

Lot's against, too. Just depends on what you ignore and what you listen to.

Even the Bush administration is finally acknowledging we need to take action.

Umm, I think they call that Politics.

California just got smart before the rest of the country.

Actually, a thread called "US Stinks, Canada Rules" is just about the only place where this comment might have cred.

END :offtopic:

We should now return to our regularly scheduled programming.

Dan

One quick ride for 10 miles or so a couple of time per month should keep the battery fine.

FYI-I have a garage with all of the outlets I could want but riding the bike is much more fun that plugging it in.

Best,

Dan

PS: Am I actually the first person to suggest that he ride it more often? Must be because it's not a VFR, huh?

Chaz,

Just yesterday I said to my wife that one of my dreams was to ride a VFR in the UK so the timing of your trip report could not have been better.

I don't know if you would consider it a dream trip but I would.

I cannot wait until the day when I can do what you did.

Thank you SO VERY MUCH for posting that. I felt the longing grow in me as I read it.

Ahh, to pursue our dreams... to live them.

Best,

Dan

Linky...

http://www.pricegrabber.com/p__Victorinox_...pack,__14448649

For starters there are a number of "Swiss Army knife" companies - at least two.) From what I understand, the "Victorinox" company is "the" Swiss Army knife company.

I did a lot of laptop bag esearch for myself. When doing so I determined that money would be no object and that I did not want a hard sided bag. Why money no object? Because my laptop costs 3K. Why worry about a bag that is under 10% of that?

The bag that I went with is the Victorinox Architecture Classic Series: Acropolis - CS2 Business Backpack. It has a lifetime repair warranty. It's laptop suspension system was the most advanced one that I saw. It had the most flexibility with how it connects to your back. It has a quick access pocket for documents on the go. Finally, I like the amount of spaces for files, peripherals, etc.

It does not have a hard side but I suspect that it would survive very well in all but the most serious crashes.

The one big downside to the bag is it's price. It was $250.00.... a lot for this sort of item.

Regardless, if you can get yourself to a place that has them for you to see you should. It's a dynamite bag. I've had mine for over a year and it's the only bag that I've had that has survived as long as it has without a hitch.

Best,

Dan